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MA2275 Phono Stage Interference Help - Stumped!

Chris thought it was a cold solder - I would keep running that down. Did you look at the solder joints of the phone stage sockets? I see some discoloration around them, but it is hard to see from the pic you are showing, plus I am guessing as to which holes they actually are - if they are even visible.

-Geoff
 
Chris thought it was a cold solder - I would keep running that down. Did you look at the solder joints of the phone stage sockets? I see some discoloration around them, but it is hard to see from the pic you are showing, plus I am guessing as to which holes they actually are - if they are even visible.

-Geoff

Hi Geoff,
Thanks for the response. I will take a look at the joints in the phono stage. If there is a cold solder, than that would date back to the original solder from McIntosh. Maybe it was always cold and it got jostled when the recent tech opened it up to fix the resistors? Thanks again.

Matt
 
I just listened to to your video. Did you have the volume control all the way up for that?

Can you hear the noise with headphones? If so, maybe physically move the unit somewhere else on the house or to another house to see if it changes (like moving an antenna to change reception). If you are near some sort of radio noise source, moving the unit somewhere, like into the basement, might change or eliminate the issue. If you do find a close source of RF noise, you can maybe complain to the people responsible or the FCC or something like. Note we all live close to cell towers and we all don't have that issue.

If there is no nearby RF noise source, you should send it to Audio Classics for repair.

Thanks for the response. Yes, that sound you heard on the recording is the volume maxed out. I did that to show that though we all know that a phono stage will never be dead quiet, it shouldn't have THIS much noise on it. I can hear the noise with headphones, but not as bad and I think that's because I'm taking the power tubes out of the chain when the system is muted for headphones. My goal was to transport this 77lb behemoth to my sister's, a few towns away, but then COVID hit and that plan has to wait. I wanted to see if the signal lessened or went away in another location. Comcast has a large wifi router on a telephone pole right behind the house and last winter, internet service went out. I immediately turned the amp on and the interference was greatly lessened. That made me feel good that it's not the amp, but an outside source, but I swear the amp never picked up this signal BEFORE I took it in for the repair on the resistor. When I brought it back to the original Mac authorized tech who worked on it, he blamed it on a microphonic tube and then kept pulling and changing tubes (with the power on, which I wasn't too keen on). He didn't hook the amp up to speakers and asked me to listen for the interference on his ancient cans. I really need to take this to another tech, closer to home. It's just hard to move down from my attic music room and with COVID, I'm trying to live with it since it does still sound good.

Thanks so much for your input.

Matt
 
I'm joining late to this thread and may have missed you mention it, but did you say this sounded like this all of the time, or just sometimes? On one channel or both? That really sounds like it's picking up a radio data transmission to me.
 
I'm joining late to this thread and may have missed you mention it, but did you say this sounded like this all of the time, or just sometimes? On one channel or both? That really sounds like it's picking up a radio data transmission to me.

Hey Bob,
I really appreciate you taking the time to try and help me with this. It happens all the time, SINCE I got 2 resistors replaced last year. The tech swears he didn't touch anything else in there and when I took it back to him to examine it again, he thought it was a microphonic tube, which is definitely isn't. The RF distortion is in both channels, but is a bit more pronounced in the right channel. When you touch the 2 ax7s in the phono stage, a hum is introduced. When I cap the phono inputs, the interference drops, but just by a little bit. I've tired shorting every input. It sounded to me like something inside might not be grounded, but the tech said that couldn't be.

Last winter, I woke to find that the internet was out, when I turned on the amp, the interference had been greatly reduced. Comcast has a wifi router mounted on a pole behind the house. That's been there for years, yet the amp didn't pick it up before.

I've also tried tube shields as it seems like the tubes have something to do with this since the interference is a little bit worse with the cage off and the touching of the tubes, that I mentioned above. I've also cleaned the tube sockets with deoxit, but that didn't seem to do anything.

The quality of sound is not affected at all by this distortion when playing records, but if I listen past say the 10 O'clock position, I can pick up the interference between songs and when changing records and it just reminds me that it's still there.

Can you think of anything I can try to confirm something one way or the other? I do want to take it off-site to test if getting it away from this RF makes a difference, but my options have been limited with the pandemic. Plus, it's heavy and I worry about cracking the glass.

Thanks again.

Matt
 
Matt -- I know you say you're near a commercial router, but it would generally take a commercial transmitting station of some power (think 50 kW AM station) within 5 miles or so to cause true RF interference -- and then, you'd hear the station as well at that. The RIAA playback response curve inherently has a tremendous amount of HF attenuation built into it, making it very hard for RFI to upset these stages. As well, the MA2275 uses active EQ to achieve the playback curve, which makes the phono stages even less prone to RFI issues and finally, the MA2275 has RFI protection built in to the phono input circuit of these preamps, so again, I would suggest that true RFI is not at play here. I would more tend to think that the noise is digital in nature, and more likely from within the unit itself.

A couple of thoughts that might help diagnose the issue:

1. IF the noise is ONLY through the Phono inputs, and IF the noise is in both channels (basically) equally, then that does tends to narrow things down pretty quick. Problems like this tend to invariably indicate power supply issues, since it is the only thing common to both channels; an issues there affects both channels.

2. However, the MA2275 uses an op-amp unity gain buffer stage between the output of phono preamp tubes, and the input to the high level section. The buffer for both channels is on the same chip (U9). To see if it is a potential issue, remove the two phono preamp tubes (V4 & V5) before powering the unit up. This hurts nothing, and is the same effective failure mode as if the heater of one tube fails since the heaters of these two tubes are connected in series. With the tubes removed, is the noise still there? If so, the problem is in the buffer stage some where. If it is gone, then it's in the vacuum tube preamp stages.

3. Note that each phono preamp tube serves both channels: V4 is the input stage for both channels, while V5 is the output stage for both channels. Therefore, anything affecting either of these tubes (or stages) will inherently affect both channels. When trying different tubes then, realize that one tube is not dedicated to a given channel, but serves both channels -- always helpful to know when troubleshooting or changing out tubes.

4. Further trouble shooting would require the use of an 82Ω 2 watt resistor, and I don't know if you want to go that far in these efforts. But the idea is to use the resistor (leads inserted into pins 4&5 of the V4 tube socket) to simulate the heater of V4 -- which would allow V5 to then operate. Again, if the noise is still there, then now the V5 stage is suspect, and if not, V4 is the new target.

5. If the V4 stage is the issue, my suspicions would direct me to C75 -- the power supply bypass cap specifically for V4. A failure of this cap would allow all manner of power supply noise (remember there are a number of digital circuits in this unit, so digital noise is certainly available) to enter both channels at this stage, and cause the symptoms you note -- including the overly sensitive tubes (although they will inherently be sensitive to a degree simply due to being preamp tubes).

Since you've ruled out the tubes, the noise is in both channels, and only in the phono preamp circuits, then the problem will invariably be found within the efforts noted above, as there's really nothing else it can be -- internally at least.

Good luck with your search -- I hope this helps!

Dave
 
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The RF interference angle interests me, as I’ve heard similar things when my phone was near the tubes. I think the case I heard it with was an MA352. Whether that was Bluetooth or cell transmissions getting coupled in, not sure. I didn’t take the time to sniff around at it.

There’s lots of little antennas in a tube. I’d be interested to hear what happens if you stand the amp on its left or right side, or if you rotate the amp 90 degrees, and then at 90 degrees and stood on edge. You might find that this makes it better or worse as you will affect the orientation of whatever is picking it up with the radiated field.

Are you using or do you place any Bluetooth or cellular devices nearby?
 
The RF interference angle interests me, as I’ve heard similar things when my phone was near the tubes. I think the case I heard it with was an MA352. Whether that was Bluetooth or cell transmissions getting coupled in, not sure. I didn’t take the time to sniff around at it.

There’s lots of little antennas in a tube. I’d be interested to hear what happens if you stand the amp on its left or right side, or if you rotate the amp 90 degrees, and then at 90 degrees and stood on edge. You might find that this makes it better or worse as you will affect the orientation of whatever is picking it up with the radiated field.

Are you using or do you place any Bluetooth or cellular devices nearby?

Hi Bob,
I've tried shutting literally everything down, including electric circuits. So no, there's no cell or bluetooth near the amp. I've tried plugging it into other electric outlets as well as bought a better power conditioner for it, etc. I've tried grounding it by running speaker wire to a ground and then touching all parts of the chassis, etc. The only relief I've ever gotten is when the neighborhood internet went out. That's it.

Matt
 
Matt -- I know you say you're near a commercial router, but it would generally take a commercial transmitting station of some power (think 50 kW AM station) within 5 miles or so to cause true RF interference -- and then, you'd hear the station as well at that. The RIAA playback response curve inherently has a tremendous amount of HF attenuation built into it, making it very hard for RFI to upset these stages. As well, the MA2275 uses active EQ to achieve the playback curve, which makes the phono stages even less prone to RFI issues and finally, the MA2275 has RFI protection built in to the phono input circuit of these preamps, so again, I would suggest that true RFI is not at play here. I would more tend to think that the noise is digital in nature, and more likely from within the unit itself.

A couple of thoughts that might help diagnose the issue:

1. IF the noise is ONLY through the Phono inputs, and IF the noise is in both channels (basically) equally, then that does tends to narrow things down pretty quick. Problems like this tend to invariably indicate power supply issues, since it is the only thing common to both channels; an issues there affects both channels.

2. However, the MA2275 uses an op-amp unity gain buffer stage between the output of phono preamp tubes, and the input to the high level section. The buffer for both channels is on the same chip (U9). To see if it is a potential issue, remove the two phono preamp tubes (V4 & V5) before powering the unit up. This hurts nothing, and is the same effective failure mode as if the heater of one tube fails since the heaters of these two tubes are connected in series. With the tubes removed, is the noise still there? If so, the problem is in the buffer stage some where. If it is gone, then it's in the vacuum tube preamp stages.

3. Note that each phono preamp tube serves both channels: V4 is the input stage for both channels, while V5 is the output stage for both channels. Therefore, anything affecting either of these tubes (or stages) will inherently affect both channels. When trying different tubes then, realize that one tube is not dedicated to a given channel, but serves both channels -- always helpful to know when troubleshooting or changing out tubes.

4. Further trouble shooting would require the use of an 82Ω 2 watt resistor, and I don't know if you want to go that far in these efforts. But the idea is to use the resistor (leads inserted into pins 4&5 of the V4 tube socket) to simulate the heater of V4 -- which would allow V5 to then operate. Again, if the noise is still there, then now the V5 stage is suspect, and if not, V4 is the new target.

5. If the V4 stage is the issue, my suspicions would direct me to C75 -- the power supply bypass cap specifically for V4. A failure of this cap would allow all manner of power supply noise (remember there are a number of digital circuits in this unit, so digital noise is certainly available) to enter both channels at this stage, and cause the symptoms you note -- including the overly sensitive tubes (although they will inherently be sensitive to a degree simply due to being preamp tubes).

Since you've ruled out the tubes, the noise is in both channels, and only in the phono preamp circuits, then the problem will invariably be found within the efforts noted above, as there's really nothing else it can be -- internally at least.

Good luck with your search -- I hope this helps!

Dave

Dave,

Your in-depth analysis is incredibly insightful and soooo appreciated. Thanks so much for taking the time to offer this help. I think you have probably either nailed it or come real close. I agree that it's prob not RFI, as I've NEVER picked up an actual frequency through the phono stage, but I had no other way to really describe it. When you listen to the audio file I posted, you hear the noise floor rumble along with the high frequency beeps, which really does sound digital and mostly likely internal. The only thing is that the only time I've ever gotten relief from this interference in the phono stage is when the neighborhood internet and cable went down last winter. Maybe that was just coincidence?

You are correct. The noise is pretty near equal in both channels and ONLY on the phono stage. The other line level stages on the amp are dead quiet. Thanks for the explanation of the functions of V4 and V5. I knew they are both responsible for both channels BUT I didn't know that V4 is the input and V5 is the output. That makes sense and helps me understand the amplifier even better.

OK, when I pull both phono preamp tubes (V4 and V5), turn the amp on and crank up the phono, all I hear is a very low level of noise floor that sound very similar to what I hear when the tubes are installed, but without any of the high frequency beeps. When the tubes are installed, that low-level noise floor is MUCH louder and there are the high frequency beeps on top of it. Without the tubes, it's just a very quiet version of the low-level noise. Maybe that is something that's always there and related to power supply?

Let's say your hunch is correct, is it OK to keep using the amp? Will I further damage anything? I wish my tech had picked this up the 2nd time I took the amp into him as this was my complaint. He dismissed it as a microphonic tube and I guess one of my phono tubes (NOS RCA blackplates) had indeed gone microphonic, coincidentally. He claimed the problem was solved with the new tube and told me to listen on his ancient cans. I couldn't hear any noise, so I hoped it was fixed. When I got the amp home (hour and a half drive), carried it up 3 flights of narrow stairs to my attic record room, set it up and was disappointed to find that nothing had changed. I will be using a different tech next time. The only reason I went to this guy is that he's an authorized McIntosh tech, one of the only ones in Massachusetts.

Thanks again for your help. You made my day!

Matt
 
Hi Geoff,
Thanks for the response. I will take a look at the joints in the phono stage. If there is a cold solder, than that would date back to the original solder from McIntosh. Maybe it was always cold and it got jostled when the recent tech opened it up to fix the resistors? Thanks again.

Matt
That amp is around ten years old, isn't it? Those solders can break down from heat, and even crack when you pull tubes in and out. I doubt it was cold from McIntosh or you would have seen it sooner. What happens with intermittent contact, though, is that the power will arc between the two points that are separated. So it will still work, but the arcing would create noise. My guess would be that this was the thought of c_dk's diagnosis. Plus I just kind of want him to have been right!

I am interested to see if it makes those noises if you pull the tubes like Bob suggested. Pretty easy way to split the dictionary and narrow it down.

-Geoff
 
If all there is is a very -- very -- low level hiss when the tubes are removed -- which is to say, little more than there is when the volume is cranked up on an open high level input -- then the phono buffer amps can be eliminated from the list of possibilities. Now, a typical 12AX7 phono preamp using active (i.e. NFB) EQ will display -- on average -- a gain of about 100 at 1 kHz. But to achieve that gain, an open loop gain (i.e., with the NFB loop disconnected) of about 2000 is needed to handle the full response range of the RIAA playback curve when the loop is in fact connected, which two 12AX7 tube sections connected in cascade are very capable of. But that gain doesn't come without the noise of vacuum tube amplification associated with it. I say vacuum tube, because all else being equal, it is surely possible to produce a given level of gain with lower noise when using SS components, than when using vacuum tube devices. All amplification devices produce noise, but vacuum tube devices -- even the quietest ones -- will be the nosiest. Therefore, it is quite normal for the phono input to display a notable level of noise when selected and volume is cranked. However, based on 60 years of such designs being in use, and using MM cartridges of any reasonable output level (say 5 mV or so), the noise produced by properly operating vacuum tube phono preamps is really insignificant at any usable listening level. Operating properly in a premium design, a 12AX7 phono preamp of the type discussed will produce a certainly noticeable and well defined -- but steady -- hiss with the volume cranked to full. This is to be expected, but again, at a normal volume control setting, the noise is basically inaudible behind any level of music reproduction.

The one notable absence in this description versus your symptoms -- are the HF beeps. To me, the beeps imply some sort of digital timing signal for (possibly) sampling purposes, or communication. The presence of many digital devices anywhere near sensitive audio equipment will often pick such noises due to proximity. The only real way to assess the impact of your environment then, is to set the unit up in a different locale that is known to be clean from excessive influence. It may be that the potential router noise outside your house -- if not the basic problem -- could still very well be the icing on the cake to a problem already existing within the unit. You mentioned that when the router went down, that the noise was greatly reduced. What you didn't say is whether the noise was completely eliminated during that time so that the unit went back to absolutely normal operation as you perceived it before you were first alerted to the issue. If it didn't, then that means there is still something else going on as well.

Understand too that microphony is only one type of tube noise -- produced (basically) by lose components within the tube that are allowed to vibrate and therefore produce a sound when subjected to external physical stimulation. Worst case examples will actually act like a microphone. But there is also the possibility of excessive electronic noise (which is completely independent of microphony), most often produced from an improperly activated or manufactured cathode element. In either case, all you can really do is use such tubes in non-sensitive areas where their defects are of no concern.

The outside router aside, as a bottom line, it's hard to believe that the design of this unit by Mac allowed for digital communication noise within it to infiltrate the phono preamps on any level. Therefore, concentrating on how that noise is finding its way there will likely solve all the excessive noise you are perceiving. Your best defense against potential outside router noise is a very good and solid grounding system. If you reside in an older home, that isn't always presented just because a three prong plug has been retrofitted. Therefore, the ground system should be investigated to ensure its integrity is in tact. Keep your speaker and interconnect leads as short as possible as well.

Very doubtful you are hurting anything operating it as you are -- but no doubt, it's quite annoying until you find the cause!

Dave
 
Hi Dave,

You have once again provided some great, detailed analysis and information that is truly helping me to get to the bottom of this annoying noise interference.

Playing music at low listening levels, it's almost impossible to pick up this noise from a listening place, but when I turn it up to say 10 O'clock onward, you can begin to detect the noise in-between songs and when changing records. If it only appeared with the volume cranked up, it wouldn't bother me as I know that all phono circuits are going to produce some sort of noise floor due to their high level of amplification.

You asked if all the noise was virtually eliminated when the internet went down last year. No, just a decent portion of it. It was not quiet like before. I guess when the tech went in to replace those 2 resistors (to control tube bias), that must've done something else, unrelated. As for inside the house, I don't have any digital or wireless devices near the amp. I have a wifi router extender one floor down, but I've unplugged that as part of my overall test for interference. No cell phones on around the amp. My house is very old, built in 1846 and there is still one third of the electrical on old knob and tube wiring. So I hear what you're saying about the possibility of dirty AC. I do have this plugged into a "grounded" circuit. I've also tried plugging it into a 2 prong circuit and it made absolutely NO audio difference. I probably should have my electrician take a look, but it was quiet when I first moved into this house, 7 years ago.

I think you are on to something when you say that outside sources are just making worse, something that already exists inside of the amp. I owned this amp for over ten years with virtually no noise on the phono circuit. I guess as the pandemic eases up, I'll take it to a new tech, closer to home. I don't think I can go back to the authorized Mac repair shop again. This is just really annoying, because as a deep listener, I can pick up this noise and knowing it's not supposed to be there and wasn't there before just takes away from some of my musical enjoyment. But at least it's not unlistenable, so that's something positive.

Thanks again for taking the time to help me with this. You've helped me understand what's going on inside the amp a lot better than I did before.

Matt

If all there is is a very -- very -- low level hiss when the tubes are removed -- which is to say, little more than there is when the volume is cranked up on an open high level input -- then the phono buffer amps can be eliminated from the list of possibilities. Now, a typical 12AX7 phono preamp using active (i.e. NFB) EQ will display -- on average -- a gain of about 100 at 1 kHz. But to achieve that gain, an open loop gain (i.e., with the NFB loop disconnected) of about 2000 is needed to handle the full response range of the RIAA playback curve when the loop is in fact connected, which two 12AX7 tube sections connected in cascade are very capable of. But that gain doesn't come without the noise of vacuum tube amplification associated with it. I say vacuum tube, because all else being equal, it is surely possible to produce a given level of gain with lower noise when using SS components, than when using vacuum tube devices. All amplification devices produce noise, but vacuum tube devices -- even the quietest ones -- will be the nosiest. Therefore, it is quite normal for the phono input to display a notable level of noise when selected and volume is cranked. However, based on 60 years of such designs being in use, and using MM cartridges of any reasonable output level (say 5 mV or so), the noise produced by properly operating vacuum tube phono preamps is really insignificant at any usable listening level. Operating properly in a premium design, a 12AX7 phono preamp of the type discussed will produce a certainly noticeable and well defined -- but steady -- hiss with the volume cranked to full. This is to be expected, but again, at a normal volume control setting, the noise is basically inaudible behind any level of music reproduction.

The one notable absence in this description versus your symptoms -- are the HF beeps. To me, the beeps imply some sort of digital timing signal for (possibly) sampling purposes, or communication. The presence of many digital devices anywhere near sensitive audio equipment will often pick such noises due to proximity. The only real way to assess the impact of your environment then, is to set the unit up in a different locale that is known to be clean from excessive influence. It may be that the potential router noise outside your house -- if not the basic problem -- could still very well be the icing on the cake to a problem already existing within the unit. You mentioned that when the router went down, that the noise was greatly reduced. What you didn't say is whether the noise was completely eliminated during that time so that the unit went back to absolutely normal operation as you perceived it before you were first alerted to the issue. If it didn't, then that means there is still something else going on as well.

Understand too that microphony is only one type of tube noise -- produced (basically) by lose components within the tube that are allowed to vibrate and therefore produce a sound when subjected to external physical stimulation. Worst case examples will actually act like a microphone. But there is also the possibility of excessive electronic noise (which is completely independent of microphony), most often produced from an improperly activated or manufactured cathode element. In either case, all you can really do is use such tubes in non-sensitive areas where their defects are of no concern.

The outside router aside, as a bottom line, it's hard to believe that the design of this unit by Mac allowed for digital communication noise within it to infiltrate the phono preamps on any level. Therefore, concentrating on how that noise is finding its way there will likely solve all the excessive noise you are perceiving. Your best defense against potential outside router noise is a very good and solid grounding system. If you reside in an older home, that isn't always presented just because a three prong plug has been retrofitted. Therefore, the ground system should be investigated to ensure its integrity is in tact. Keep your speaker and interconnect leads as short as possible as well.

Very doubtful you are hurting anything operating it as you are -- but no doubt, it's quite annoying until you find the cause!

Dave
 
I bought this amp from Audio Classics back in 2008. There is no way I would ship this, even in its original box, which of course I still have. It would be cool to have Audio Classics tune it up, but shipping is too dangerous and expensive. Instead of taking it to the McIntosh authorized repair place that I did last time, I'm thinking of taking it to a place I trust in Cambridge, MA.

Actually, take it (or ship it) to one further from home: https://www.audioclassics.com/service
 
Hi Matt The Cat, have you solved your issue?
I have the same MA2275 and i had the same issue with noise on channels, solved changed the relative pre tubes
 
Hi Matt The Cat, have you solved your issue?
I have the same MA2275 and i had the same issue with noise on channels, solved changed the relative pre tubes

Hey Federico,
Good to hear from another 2275 owner. I don't think there are too many of us out there. Man, I wish my noise issue was that easy to solve. It began in late 2019 when the 2275 returned home from its first visit to the shop and I haven't been able to solve it since. I'm getting some noise on the phono channel only and believe me, I've tried many different tubes in the phono stage, but the noise remains the same no matter what tubes are used. My line-level channels are dead quiet.
 
Yes i read your last year thread some months ago, when i had the same issue
With mine 2275, the issue was "same" like yours (pre tubes end of life) but in my case, the noise is the same for phono stage, but i also have a little noise with all other inputs
I tried to change the pre tubes with JJ and the issue is better but not solver, after this test, i buyed a NOS Philips Miniwatt and now is all fine
For my case, i used this easy tutorial to have some simple tests --> https://www.dynakitfriends.com/styled/index.html
Now i must change the KT88 tubes and i received today the reply from McIntosh that i can use all KT88 tubes without any bias modification... because some people in forums says "you must adjust the bias !!!!"
-----------
Cornelius, Ron <RCornelius@mcintoshlabs.com>
14:59 (25 minuti fa)
cleardot.gif

cleardot.gif

a Jordan, me, Chuck
cleardot.gif


Hi Federico,

You can use any quality KT88 tubes in your MA2275. No bias adjustment needed.

Thank you,
Ron Cornelius
McIntosh

----------
 
Yes i read your last year thread some months ago, when i had the same issue
With mine 2275, the issue was "same" like yours (pre tubes end of life) but in my case, the noise is the same for phono stage, but i also have a little noise with all other inputs
I tried to change the pre tubes with JJ and the issue is better but not solver, after this test, i buyed a NOS Philips Miniwatt and now is all fine
For my case, i used this easy tutorial to have some simple tests --> https://www.dynakitfriends.com/styled/index.html
Now i must change the KT88 tubes and i received today the reply from McIntosh that i can use all KT88 tubes without any bias modification... because some people in forums says "you must adjust the bias !!!!"
-----------
Cornelius, Ron <RCornelius@mcintoshlabs.com>
14:59 (25 minuti fa)
cleardot.gif

cleardot.gif

a Jordan, me, Chuck
cleardot.gif


Hi Federico,

You can use any quality KT88 tubes in your MA2275. No bias adjustment needed.

Thank you,
Ron Cornelius
McIntosh

----------

I have made many tube changes over the years with the 2275. After I bought it, I immediately switched out all the original McIntosh stock tubes as they are chinese made and not the greatest. For KT88s, I've gone through a few quads of Gold Lion reissues and have been VERY happy with their sound and quality. I use the amplifier a lot and can usually get 5+ years out of the Gold Lion KT88s. For the preamp tubes, I've bounced around from NOS Telefunkens, RCAs, Amperex Bugle Boys, GE, etc. With supply of NOS tubes running low and prices skyrocketing, I've decided to stop using NOS and try to find the best new production tubes in my price range. Right now, I've got new production Gold Lion 12ax7s in the phono stage and new production Tung Sol 12ax7s in the line stage. I'm still using NOS Telefunkens for the 12at7s. Tube rolling is fun, but it can get expensive and frustrating. You can use any quality KT88, 12ax7 and 12at7 in your 2275 without a thought as our amp is self-biasing. You never need to touch the bias. Actually, that's why my 2275 needed to go into the shop in 2019...2 resistors that bias KT88s had blown and needed to be replaced.
 
I actually have an update, 5 years after the last post and nearly 7 years after the initial post. The problem persists. You guys gave some insightful and precise evaluations of my issue with possible solutions. In the past 5 years, I have spoken to a few McIntosh techs from the factory and no one seems to have an idea what it could be. I have an NAD 312 integrated amp that used almost 30 years ago and it's my backup amp when the MA2275 is away. When I set it up, the phono stage on the NAD is dead quiet. Last year, I borrowed a stand-alone phono stage from a friend. Nothing fancy, just a very basic box about the size and scope of a direct box for recording. I set THAT up and the noise was there. A-ha. Another phono pre is picking up the same sounds. OK, so it can't just be the McIntosh! GREAT! Progress!

Last week, I took off the tube cage to my MA2275 to dust the tubes as I haven't done that in a loooong while. I have 3 cats, so I need to keep the cage on most of the time to protect them and the amplifier. I'm dusting and I look down at the transformers and I find a brown stain (attached pics just for reference) on the perimeter of the transformer boxes. OH NO, I think, it must be rust. But no! I touch it and it's oily. I know they fill the transformer boxes with tar for isolation, so I panic and think the transformers are leaking! I clean it up and start making calls. I call a guy in Hartford who's been professionally working on McIntosh amps for over 50 years! He says that they can lead and that there isn't much you can do. It's rare, but it happens. This past weekend, I drove to Hartford (2 hours) to have him look at the amp. He checks it out and my Mac is in great health, overall. Very low distortion AND it's a 75wpc amp, but like most Macs of that rated power, it doesn't start clipping until it hits 95 watts. Great! No leaks on the circuit board and no internal damage. He concludes that it's probably just the potting material that was used when sealing the transformers to the chassis back in 2005. The amp got hot and it started melting and leaking.

HERE'S THE KICKER! - He tested the phono stage. He plugged in speakers and turned the volume ALL THE WAY UP! No noise. Just a bit of the hiss you'd expect on a phono stage jacked to the max. I was blown away. So if the phono stage was picking up internal noise, it should have been on the channel at the shop in Hartford.

I take it home (that very same day, which was pretty amazing. It's a fantastic shop called The Stereo Shop and has been open since 1959), set it up and BAM, the noise IS WORSE now than when I broke it down last week! ARGH! I had learned to live with it, but now it's worse than before and so I'm extra sensitive to it again.

So, I'm posting here now just to update you and see if anything new comes to mind. I know, it's probably some electronic frequencies in my neighborhood. The only saving grace here is that I now know that it's not the amplifier.

Isn't this crazy! I mean, we tested it in Hartford, CT. There should have been routers, radio frequencies and other interference all around as it is a major city. It wasn't like I took it out to a farm or something.

If you've read to this point, thank you. I appreciate it.

-Matt
 

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1 it was quiet in this position in your home at one time (ground at the outlet is probably good)
2 it was worse after a repair (might not be the tech - could be the travel causing loose connection)
3 brought it back to the tech and he found no problem (travel again and not heard at the shop but still there at home)
4 took it apart and still the same
5 found oily substance and took to a different tech - heard no sound at the shop
6 brought it home and the sound is back

This is blowing my mind!
Do you have a different TT to try. I thought my C-26 had phono noise and it turned out to be the wiring on my Technics I know you said you tried a shorting cables at first but not sure if you tried them again. I would try some shorting plugs instead of cables.
 
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