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Magnavox 6v6 mono console pull refurb help 142cc and 128d

hrtattckcity

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I recently picked up a couple of Magnavox 6v6 mono console pulls and was hoping to get a little guidance on how to convert them to standalone.

I found a few threads, and know there are many on these amps, but the most relevant seemed to have expired photo links.

Please see the attached marked up 142 schematic from the photofact--and bare with me I am slow with schematics. I relabeled all of the duplicate designations "A,B, C, etc" to clarify.

Both amps are untested, the black beauties on the 142 are cracked, and the 10000mmf caps burned up.

Initial questions:

-recommended replacement spec for the black beauties (c5a and c5b), the plate resistor (r10b), and the two 10000mmf caps (c8 and c9)?
-can i eliminate the phono motor section of the schematic as marked up?
-is there a typical best location for an rca input and speaker output?
-fuse spec? and preferred location?
-how many watts are resistors if not labelled otherwise?

Any other advice or links to relevant threads greatly appreciated!
 

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I'd stick to stock values on most of this stuff. I use a lot of basic yellow caps in 630v.

R10b is actually a cathode resistor, but its just a resistor. Nothing fancy. Just make sure its at least 10 watts. Probably wirewound. The stock one may be good, but they do get fairly hot so it may look roasted but still measure OK. Try to keep it physically away from the cap across it for heat reasons if you don't re-stuff the can (I hate re-stuffing cans). Speaking of that cap, you can bump that up to 47uf if you want, it may improve the bass response a bit. 50v cap is fine there.

Phono motor is just a 120v outlet in a funny shape. No worries about removing it. Just disconnect all of the wires.

Replace C9 with a 0.01uf X1Y1 safety capacitor.

Input I think is up in the front corner area. Thats actually fine, but if you want to move it to the rear, keep it as far from the power supply stuff as possible.

Same with the speakers, just try to keep it away from the power stuff. It can be located straight back from the existing socket, or if you want top mount sockets you can remove the stock sockets and make up a plate to mount the jacks you like in that spot. I expect its a 2 or 4 ohm output, but it might be 4 or 8.

Fuse is probably 2a slow-blow. Location to suit your preference. I've used through-hole type holders with the caps you can remove from the outside and the ones that just clip the fuse in underneath. Honestly it doesn't matter, just try to keep the power stuff on the side that it already is on.

Resistors are typically 1/2w if not marked otherwise

Switch can go where the phono motor socket went, or wherever you like. I like the power cord to come to the fuse first, fuse to switch, then switch to transformer. If you swap it to a polarized plug, this should be on the hot side of the cord. Switch goes from pin 5 to pin 7 on the tuner power socket. The other wires on that can be eliminated if you like.
 
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