Marantz 1060 Amp - First Things To Do

[David_NC]

I recently shipped some components from my house in NC to CA. One of the first things I sent was a 1060 integrated amp. Cosmetically, this unit looks to be maybe a couple years old. When I hooked it up before shipping, it had really sticky pushbuttons and noisy pots. Those cleaned up very nicely with some Deoxit and now work perfectly with no noise or dropouts. I hooked it up last night to a pair of Dahlquist DQM-9's in the garage, and it sounded great. A friend was over and was impressed that something with 'only 30 watts' could sound so good with deep bass. . I listened to it for a couple hours, and my IR thermometer was reading 2-3 degrees above ambient (in this case, random parts of the chassis and faceplate); it really runs cool.
I'm happy with its sound but would like to do what's necessary to keep it from being damaged due to old caps or other components and OK to use regularly. Eventually, I'll do more, but for now, I want to make it safe to use. I've got four more pieces of gear that will be shipped, and I don't want to get too bogged down in any one unit and would like to make them all at least usable. So, what areas do I need to concentrate on, in terms of replacements. It's all original, from what I can tell, and no caps appear to be leaking or swelling. The power supply board looks to be really simple, and the only boards that look complex are the amps themselves.
(below is a pic of the other 1060. It appears much older than the one I have here (its serial number is 1429). Otherwise, they seem identical other than the older one having an engraved faceplate, all black speaker connections vs the red/black ones on this model, and has a support running front to back on each side, and the newer one has black filter and coupling caps.)

 

[Catmanboo]

Fwiw, I have a box-stock 1060 also, it runs cool even when driven hard. Currently out of rotation, but when it's in, it's used daily, no problems at all. My philosophy is, if it ain't broke, don't **** with it . If i recapped it, could my 62-year-old ears tell the difference? Doubt it. Thats just me, though.This oughta start the shiitestorm, so itstime!

 

[AMB_IV]

David,
I also have a 1060 and I’m also at the “eventually I’ll do more” stage. There is a lot of expertise here on audiokarma. I’m more of a hack myself. But from what I’ve read the first thing you want to do is Assure the integrity of the power supply. For some that means looking at the plug and giving it a “ja shure dat works”. For mine I recapped the power supply board, replaced the chassis mounted power supply cap, and the two chassis mounted output caps. For doing this I was rewarded with restored volume output and better sound.

 

[AMB_IV]

By the way I’m in NC also. If you decide you don’t want to ship #1429 to CA I‘m willing to adopt it.

 

[spark1]

Fwiw, I have a box-stock 1060 also, it runs cool even when driven hard. Currently out of rotation, but when it's in, it's used daily, no problems at all. My philosophy is, if it ain't broke, don't **** with it . If i recapped it, could my 62-year-old ears tell the difference? Doubt it. Thats just me, though.This oughta start the shiitestorm, so itstime!

Right on. 50 year old electrolytics still have a lot of miles left on them. I take the same approach with timing belts on old Honda Accords.

 

[blhagstrom]

Just rescued a 1060 from a recycle pile.
Looked terrible but it was mostly just dirty outside.

Once I popped the covers and got it fired up, I just went ahead and recapped it.
Since I have parts on hand, it only took a few hours.

I did need to order some caps for the output, I was down to one on hand. Duh-Oh!
Since it needed a new power switch to, I ordered one.

So, other than waiting for parts, they are pretty quick to recap once you have a good bench set up.
I restuff the big caps and have tools ready to do that.

Since I don't think there is any critical "fix now" things on them, if it works, run it.
Since they are simple enough to recap (for me), I say get the parts and just do it.

If your speakers and room are decent, you will hear the magic after recap.
If you have any decent hearing left.

 

[David_NC]

Right on. 50 year old electrolytics still have a lot of miles left on them. I take the same approach with timing belts on old Honda Accords.

This is the point of my this post; what parts need to be replaced, not so that the 1060 will drive like new, but to ensure that I don’t have to rebuild the head due to bent and damaged valves.
More specifically, what caps, etc should I change to make this ‘safe’ to use. If there are any specific recommendations, I’d appreciate hearing about them.

 

[ivandezande]

There's nothing of grave importance to replace on the 1060 as has been said. It'll work. How well? Depends.

Since we're using car analogies, you wouldn't wait until 50k to get an oil change....

 

[spark1]

Do the power supply to reduce the potential for chain reaction problems. If you have any hiss or white noise, replace signal transistors known to become noisy/leaky with age. Pull output transistors, clean thermal compound and refresh. Clean pots and switches. Check/adjust DC balance and bias.

 

[David_NC]

Do the power supply to reduce the potential for chain reaction problems. If you have any hiss or white noise, replace signal transistors known to become noisy/leaky with age. Pull output transistors, clean thermal compound and refresh. Clean pots and switches. Check/adjust DC balance and bias.

Perfect. That’ll be easy enough to do. So far, there’s no hiss or hum, even with relatively efficient speakers (95dB). A much young friend couldn’t detect any noise either, which is good. I guess high frequency loss with age isn’t all bad!
I was really surprised at how good this amp sounds in original form - smooth and pleasant with good detail - just like I remembered it. I know it’s older brother, serial number 1492, will need more attention. It’s got a really loud hum.

 

[AMB_IV]

these are the parts I replaced:

1060 C806
Mfr. #: Panasonic EEU-FR1H271
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 50VDC 270uF 10x20mm LS5mm

1060 C805
Mfr. #: Panasonic EEU-FR1H681L
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 50VDC 680uF 12x30mm LS5mm

1060 C804
Mfr. #: Panasonic EEU-FR1H221
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 50VDC 220uF 10x16mm LS5mm

1060 C803
Mfr. #: Panasonic EEU-FR1H102
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 50VDC 1000uF 16x25mm LS7.5mm

1060 C006, C007
Mfr. #: Nichicon LKS1J682MESC
Desc.: Snap In Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 63volts 6800uF 20%

1060 C003
Mfr. #: Nichicon LKG1K103MKZ
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 10000uF 80 Volts 20% Tol.

If I were you I'd change these caps. period. there's alot of good alternatives and there's a great post somewhere here where a user compares several different cap manufactures with vivid descriptions. PatFont I think. the point being pick some and change them.

I figure if the Marantz 1060 had been playing an average of 2 hours a day, 3 days a week for 45 years those caps would have 14,000 hours on them. New caps have a mfg's life of 1000 hours, maybe 2000 hours. maybe some 1060's spend more time in storage than others....
regards,
Mac

 

[fromnowon]

I take the same approach with timing belts on old Honda Accords.

Ha ha, I've been thinking about the timing belt on a 2000 Accord - maybe I don't have to! It has 280K miles and has had one TB/water pump done at about 120K. The car runs unbelievably good still. It leaks oil from the distributor so I'd like to tackle that problem. It's just been a great car. We've had it since new.

I've had a great experience with a recap/restore - it was a Pioneer SX-434, completely transformed it from somewhat muddy sounding to very lively and clean/clear sound, still good bass, just different. I imagine that it sounds the way it did when new and maybe even better. It sure made the amp more fun to listen to; I love it, gave it away to my son actually. I'm a novice and had to really pay attention to the transistor pinouts. Anyway it sure made a noticeable difference on that amp and it was a blast to do it.

I think choosing the parts can be a bit overwhelming and even risky, if you don't do this all the time, and that's the good thing about finding a "kit" of proven parts, which are certainly out there for a 1060. Plenty of lists too though which is also great. The help on this forum is also just tremendous.

Good luck!

 

[Skywatcher]

I recently shipped some components from my house in NC to CA. One of the first things I sent was a 1060 integrated amp. Cosmetically, this unit looks to be maybe a couple years old. When I hooked it up before shipping, it had really sticky pushbuttons and noisy pots. Those cleaned up very nicely with some Deoxit and now work perfectly with no noise or dropouts. I hooked it up last night to a pair of Dahlquist DQM-9's in the garage, and it sounded great. A friend was over and was impressed that something with 'only 30 watts' could sound so good with deep bass. . I listened to it for a couple hours, and my IR thermometer was reading 2-3 degrees above ambient (in this case, random parts of the chassis and faceplate); it really runs cool.
I'm happy with its sound but would like to do what's necessary to keep it from being damaged due to old caps or other components and OK to use regularly. Eventually, I'll do more, but for now, I want to make it safe to use. I've got four more pieces of gear that will be shipped, and I don't want to get too bogged down in any one unit and would like to make them all at least usable. So, what areas do I need to concentrate on, in terms of replacements. It's all original, from what I can tell, and no caps appear to be leaking or swelling. The power supply board looks to be really simple, and the only boards that look complex are the amps themselves.
(below is a pic of the other 1060. It appears much older than the one I have here (its serial number is 1429). Otherwise, they seem identical other than the older one having an engraved faceplate, all black speaker connections vs the red/black ones on this model, and has a support running front to back on each side, and the newer one has black filter and coupling caps.)
View attachment 1705302

Old electrolytic capacitors are way past their expected life, especially the old Gray Elna Bombs. They're known to fail short on occasion, and if not shorted directly, you can bet the internal resistance is building. I see a lot of gray ones in the photo. I wouldn't hesitate to change them out. Sure, their capacitance might be in spec, but that is only one aspect about a capacitor. If resistance rises enough, it puts stress on other components. The same goes for the rubber band in the Honda Accord. It will fail, it's just a matter of time. Timing belts have a life expectancy of only 100k miles on the rounded cog, and less, about 60k on the square cog earlier design. If the Honda engine isn't an interference design, then all that will happen is you're left stranded. If it is an interference design, then valves will get bent, and possibly a piston cracks. Which in turn leads to extra work to repair. In the case of the Marantz, transistors and resistors will likely be toasted if a "high mileage" (years old) cap fails short. Which again, leads to extra work needed for a repair. It's chemistry. Rubber and reinforcement flex repeatedly with age and ozone becoming weaker. Electrolyte dries, and the materials (dielectric) chemically degrade with age. Like the old commercial slogan, "You can pay me now, or pay me later". Later usually means a lot more in repair costs.

 

[Skywatcher]

Fwiw, I have a box-stock 1060 also, it runs cool even when driven hard. Currently out of rotation, but when it's in, it's used daily, no problems at all. My philosophy is, if it ain't broke, don't **** with it . If i recapped it, could my 62-year-old ears tell the difference? Doubt it. Thats just me, though.This oughta start the shiitestorm, so itstime!

LOL! Yes, your ears may not know the difference. My 62 yr old ears do hear the difference. But it's not about the sound. It's about preventing a looming disaster when an old electrolytic capacitor fails. Even if it doesn't "sound better" to you after replacing them, it will prevent "silence", which is the worst (lack of) sound you can have. And prevent the magic smoke from escaping into the air. I've tried this stuff, but it doesn't work.

 

[David_NC]

I have a question about some of these values. I listed the ones in my unit in bold, which match the values in the service manual. I notice that some of these are significantly different from what's specified. Is there a reason that they vary so much - better performance, unavailable original values, values changed in later units by factory, etc? Thanks!

these are the parts I replaced:

1060 C806
Mfr. #: Panasonic EEU-FR1H271
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 50VDC 270uF 10x20mm LS5mm

100uF, 50V

1060 C805
Mfr. #: Panasonic EEU-FR1H681L
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 50VDC 680uF 12x30mm LS5mm

470uF, 63V

1060 C804
Mfr. #: Panasonic EEU-FR1H221
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 50VDC 220uF 10x16mm LS5mm

100uF, 50V

1060 C803
Mfr. #: Panasonic EEU-FR1H102
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 50VDC 1000uF 16x25mm LS7.5mm

470uF, 63V

1060 C006, C007
Mfr. #: Nichicon LKS1J682MESC
Desc.: Snap In Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 63volts 6800uF 20%

4700uF, 80V

1060 C003
Mfr. #: Nichicon LKG1K103MKZ
Desc.: Radial Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 10000uF 80 Volts 20% Tol.

3000uF, 55V

 

[David_NC]

I think I need help choosing capacitors! Looking for a 470uF on mouser.com, I come up with these. Which would I use for the power supply in the 1060? (I hope the link works correctly)
https://www.mouser.com/Panasonic/Pa...x4avu&Keyword=Electrolytic+Capacitors&FS=True
Thanks.

 

[Skywatcher]

I think I need help choosing capacitors! Looking for a 470uF on mouser.com, I come up with these. Which would I use for the power supply in the 1060? (I hope the link works correctly)
https://www.mouser.com/Panasonic/Pa...x4avu&Keyword=Electrolytic+Capacitors&FS=True
Thanks.

For power supply/circuit caps, always check the current rating. You want to at least match what is in there. But for the big ones like filter caps, it doesn't hurt to increase the rating some. If you need, say a 1.2a rating, a 650ma is too small. A 1.4a rating would be fine (as an example)

 

[David_NC]

For power supply/circuit caps, always check the current rating. You want to at least match what is in there. But for the big ones like filter caps, it doesn't hurt to increase the rating some. If you need, say a 1.2a rating, a 650ma is too small. A 1.4a rating would be fine (as an example)

I don't think I've seen a current rating listed on the caps for this unit.

 

[Catmanboo]

That's because they're rated in capacity, (uF) & max voltage in d.c. Up the rated voltage is preferred to matching with the oem units in there.

 

[David_NC]

That's because they're rated in capacity, (uF) & max voltage in d.c. Up the rated voltage is preferred to matching with the oem units in there.

The main issue I have is, with a given cap manufacturer, there are multiple results for the same capacity, type, and max voltage. Being my first recap, I still don't know which to choose.

I've seen many values substituted for the originals on the power supply board. The below seem to be the most common (the values in parentheses are the originals).
C803 - 470uf/63v (470uF/63V)
C804 - 220uf/50v (100uF/50V)
C805 - 470uf/50v (330uF/50V)
C806 - 220uf/50v (100uF/50V)

I'm curious if the ones listed here will be satisfactory, or if I use different ones.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22UXbiauPutPBXgMydADrQaE=
and
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22bWlSlpQNIMtXjQpFhGVLdA=

Thanks!