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Marantz 1060 : complete overhaul

#1. Set the DC balance to about 31V if you don't have a scope.
#2. I have no clue, I would leave them in, what could they hurt?

Tom
 
Thanks Tom !
So it does not matter that the 31V is not half the supply voltage ?
Yes, I'll put the suppressor caps back in, it's just that I forgot about them when I put the new rectifier in :rolleyes:.
 
I adjusted clipping balance on mine 1060 with a scope, but if I had a problem I would try to change R717 (718), instead of trimmers, because it's easier and cheeper. :) And if you don't run your amp close to the clipping points, this adjustment doesn't matter.

And recheck (adjust) bias, after clipping balance.
 
In the real world, this is the best you can do without a scope. ton4eff is correct on both counts, bias and DC balance interact.

Tom
 
So, as long as the voltage is equal on the output caps it's OK ? Doesn't need to be half of the supply voltage ?
My supply voltage is 69V, half that is 34,5. I can adjust to 31v but no more.
And yes of course the bias needs to be checked after adjustment.
 
The Rectifier raises that total voltage. If i'm understanding the question right. its an RMS thing

Edit, If you are talking about a power supply voltage pot, that is not the amp supply voltage. at least on most marantz units. It is the supply for the pre amp board, etc

Your amp rails are strictly from the rectifier and big can filters. two separate voltages.
 
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We're talking about the p700 board here, it has the usual bias adjust plus a clipping balance adjust.
That clipping balance normally would be adjusted with an oscilloscope, which I don't have.
In this case usually it is recommended to adjust the voltage on the output caps to half the supply voltage.

Marantz 1060 : Only one rail supply here, 69 volts dc in my case. Cap-coupled output.
We are not talking about the other supplies here, they are not adjustable.

My only question is : should the voltage before the output coupling caps be half the main supply voltage or does it not matter as long as it is symmetrical? I can adjust to 31v which is less than half those 69v.
Thanks !
 
Yes, in a capacitor coupled amplifier, the voltage on the output capacitor will be close to half of the main B+ voltage (once adjusted for symmetrical clipping). Setting it to half of the B+ value is a good alternative procedure, if a scope and signal generator are not available. In the OP's particular case, setting it to 31V will likely result in asymmetrical clipping, but is not likely to be a problem in everyday use with an "average" speaker in a "typical" room.
 
I don't think the clipping will be too far out with the DC balance set at 31V. Using an o'scope and distortion analyzer, I have been able to set every 1060 and 2230 I have restored so that the clipping is symmetrical. The voltage at the points mentioned was pretty close to 30V.
Your ears will tell you if it's going into clipping.

Tom
 
My 1060 is going in for a recap in the near future, after seeing this post im sure to be disappointed when i get it back . Amazing job you are doing :thumbsup:
 
Nice work!
So here is the BIG question: how does it sound?
Yes, a good question ! The thing is, it is not finished yet. The tone board is untouched, I haven't had time to do anything since my last post.
I did try it briefly on my main speakers, and I thought it was missing sparkle in the treble, and altogether pleasant but nothing special.
But this is with no burn-in and unfinished, so I hope things will improve !
I will definitely keep you guys posted !
 
Ok, I got to do the preamp board today. 3.3uf are now Wima mks2, the 1uf and 0.47uf Panasonic ECW, the two 10uf are Silmic II.
The green film caps (0.22uf) are original. Do you guys reckon they should come out or are they fine ?
The sound immediately is much improved, especially the treble, much more open.
Now it is starting to sound very nice. I can tell the 4-pole mundorf is playing its part, similar small details coming out the same way as in the Scott A457 I did with the same main caps.
The bass is loud and clear, to my liking ! Mids are sweet and clear.
The one thing it doesn't do so well is focus the vocals right in the center, and it doesn't place the instruments very clearly at a particular point in between the speakers.
But the overall sound is quite 3D, not flat at all, maybe that's why ? Also hardly any running time on those new caps yet...

One of the 10uf : bulging and corrosion...
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buttoned up and sounding nice !

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I still need to give it back its blue light and to do the phono board, that'll be for a bit later !
 
Do you have a Picture of P400 Tone-PreAmp and P900 Phone Boards?

I installed MUNDORF EVO Aluminum + Oil Films on P-400 Tone/Pre Amp Board C401/402.
The Green Films (Yamato) are Flat to my ears.

The MUNDORF will need 100+ hrs...I used this in 2230....They do take some time.

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Cohiba, no photos yet of those boards. I didn't get to the phono board yet.....
Thanks for the info on the Yamato films, good to know.
Hmmm, I will have to try something then...I was looking at the Jantzen Superior Z-cap for that position. I think it was Patfont saying they are very nice. The originals are 0.22uf, I need to stay with the same value, don't I ?
Also, aren't there more green films on the board where the tone pots are ? P450 if I remember correctly ? And the ceramics on that same upside-down board with the tone pots ? Should I replace them ?

Thanks in advance !
Bert.
 
Here are my preamp/tone and phono boards. The phono board is still all original....
P400 : silmic II, Wima MKS2 and Panasonic ECW. The transistors are original, as are the green Yamato films.

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