Marantz 1120 testing

[Blue Shadow]

I don't think enough 1120s have been done to verify SM accuracy.
Get a list from the SM and compare it to what you have in your unit, order what you have in your unit.
Most new caps will be way better than the old electrolytics in your unit. So what to use is up to you but it took me 8+ years to adjust to the caps I like and are recommended for better performance.
Film caps instead of low value electrolytics.
Nichicon PW and HE and Panasonic FC and FM are good all around caps
Vishay/BC Components AML 138 are good axial caps.
and more and more.
Nichicon has a line of about 8 different audio grade caps for signal path uses.
Too much to learn

Being a novice I'm concerned I'll choose the wrong capacitors to be honest. Thinking this is a learning opportunity though.

in a first recap.

So build your list and post it and ask for comments is the best I can recommend. Reading 8+ years of old recapping threads is too much to do for this simple recap.

As to searching Mouser, first figure out what you want, axial or either axial or radial for each cap and then select that when drilling down.

Me, I'm gonna use whatever and the unit will sound new again.

 

[met_engr]

So build your list and post it and ask for comments is the best I can recommend. Reading 8+ years of old recapping threads is too much to do for this simple recap.

As to searching Mouser, first figure out what you want, axial or either axial or radial for each cap and then select that when drilling down.

Me, I'm gonna use whatever and the unit will sound new again.

Fair enough. I think I'll make a spreadsheet.

 

[dankik]

but take the boards out to do it - to make sure you get clean solder joints.

I have not worked on an 1120, but looking at your pictures it looks like you would need to unsolder a whole row of connector pins from the board to remove the two smaller boards. It's hard to tell from the photo if there is a connector or not. If you need to unsolder the interconnect pins I would recommend that you use an unsoldering tool like a Hakko FR-301 (not cheap) or at a minimum a solder sucker and braid so as not to damage the board pads & traces.

Also, be careful poking around the boards. The capacitors may still hold a charge even with the power cord disconnected.

 

[met_engr]

I have not worked on an 1120, but looking at your pictures it looks like you would need to unsolder a whole row of connector pins from the board to remove the two smaller boards. It's hard to tell from the photo if there is a connector or not. If you need to unsolder the interconnect pins I would recommend that you use an unsoldering tool like a Hakko FR-301 (not cheap) or at a minimum a solder sucker and braid so as not to damage the board pads & traces.

Also, be careful poking around the boards. The capacitors may still hold a charge even with the power cord disconnected.

I'm pretty sure, and hoping, the boards plug into eachother with mechanical sockets. Don't know the proper term, but almost like a big ribbon cable?

Appreciate the concern. I'm being careful. Might be more out of concern for the amp than myself though...

 

[Blue Shadow]

Some of the boards plug in as I've had them out of the unit. Seems this unit could be completely gutted and still be easy to put back together.

 

[Lavane]

I liked restoring the model 140 power amp I had. They are very modular. I only had to unsolder a couple wires. The rest just unscrewed and unplugged.

 

[met_engr]

What is with the green boards? My 1120 has blue boards.

Huh...yeah no idea. I haven't found a date stamp on mine yet. Maybe mine is an earlier or later model.

Tried looking up the serial number, but haven't found the right list with the 1120 yet. Serial number is: 1120-8360

 

[Blue Shadow]

Serial number is: 1120-8360

yours is about 6000 higher than the one I have. Green must be the upgraded boards, blue the early ones.

 

[met_engr]

yours is about 6000 higher than the one I have. Green must be the upgraded boards, blue the early ones.

Poking around looking at serial numbers online the highest I could find was in the 12,000s. I think the blue ones look cooler, but I won't know the difference once the cover is back on.

Might have just been a change or vendor or some other unexciting reason...and not necessarily a move towards better quality.

I've also noticed REV1 printed on the selector boards so not everything was new I guess. From what I've seen the selector boards are the same translucent green on the presumably older models with the blue boards too.