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Marantz 2220 (non B) Complete Restoration

^^^correct.

My notes were that the board polarity was marked wrong, not that the caps were oriented or installed incorrectly. Many people only pay attention to the markings and would potentially have issues on reassembly.
 
This is fantastic, really helpful, especially with the transistor substitutions. I'm wondering what your'e using for H709, H710, H711 & H712. Oddly there's nothing in my service manual for these transistors and your pics look like an NEC part?
 
If you look in the SM page 16 the schematic shows them and gives the model numbers on the upper left along with the other transistors on that board. Not sure why they forgot to put them in the list towards the back.

I didn’t replace those transistors during this rebuild which is why they weren’t noted. Lots of modern subs discussed on AK so you’ll have a few to choose from if they need replaced.
 
MBuras, thank you sir! much appreciated and noted in my manual, H709-712 2SC959, 2SA606. Now for the fun part of tracking down subs.
 
Just went through this with my 2230.

2SC959–>2N3440
2SA606–>2N5415 or 2N5416
Mouser has these by Central Semiconductor for about $3 each.
 
Thanks Steven, much appreciated! Wondering if you saw any improvement? I have a slight but noticeable noise floor. Pure white noise, faint but there. Also have a slight 60cycle hum that sits in the left channel more than the right. Hence searching for noisy transistors.
 
JLewis9119 said:
Thanks Steven, much appreciated! Wondering if you saw any improvement? I have a slight but noticeable noise floor. Pure white noise, faint but there. Also have a slight 60cycle hum that sits in the left channel more than the right. Hence searching for noisy transistors.
Click to expand...
This 2230 was a very early serial number that was in terrible shape and caked with dirt. So there was really nothing to compare to. One amp board had several blown transistors, resistors and diodes, including the two transistors you are talking about. It has been up and running for about a week and sounds great. I would definitely replace any electrolytic caps on your amp boards. They could contribute to the hum. Good luck with yours!
 
Steven Tate said:
This 2230 was a very early serial number that was in terrible shape and caked with dirt. So there was really nothing to compare to. One amp board had several blown transistors, resistors and diodes, including the two transistors you are talking about. It has been up and running for about a week and sounds great. I would definitely replace any electrolytic caps on your amp boards. They could contribute to the hum. Good luck with yours!
Click to expand...

Kudos for repairing problems before replacing the electrolytic capacitors.

Tom
 
Thanks so much for the helpful thread!

Can someone confirm if this works for the P700 board:

C703/C704 - 35v/220uf capacitors replaced with 35v/22uf like it says?

Thanks a bunch!
 
Thanks for catching an almost 5 year old typo. :D

220uf was documented on original board and replacement part number listed is also 220uf. I just typed the value wrong in my description of the replacement. Oops! I’ll edit now for future clarity.
 
Thank you @MBuras, almost done with my second 2220 (my $4 thrift store 2220 was one of my first projects, I was even more clueless than I am now...scary).
This one had a dead channel, far too many hours were spent poking and prodding until I found R509 was open.
My recipe uses Nichicon UPW on the power supply, UKL most other places and WIMA films under 4.7uf It came out beautifully.

A couple of notes.
-On the PHONO board conventional wisdom says KSC1815 replaces the 2SC458 transistors instead of KSC1845 because of possible oscillations (monkey read, monkey solder).
-I *think* your C809 cap is marked properly on the board. Mine was the same, looks square.
-Still playing with vellum, this is with 100GSM vellum and the bulbs rotated about 45 degrees up. I have some 180GSM that I think I like better.

I love AK.

278371129_10227186272352830_667060267626959777_n.jpg
 
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MBuras said:
P700 Power Amp Board & other misc items

View attachment 688793

I got a nice shot of the power board before I started work but forgot to shoot the finished product until it was installed. Sorry. Huge pain to get this board in and out so no redo's. Also never got a photo of the coupling/filter capacitors beforehand but they're in the finished shot along with the power board.

The documented contents of the original board are as follows:
C701/C702 - 50v/0.47uf low leakage capacitors
C703/C704 - 35v/220uf capacitors
C707 thru C710 - 50v/47uf capacitors
C711/C712 - 35v/10uf capacitors
C715/C716 - 10v/100uf capacitors
C717/C718 - 35v/22uf capacitors
H701/H702 - 2SC945 transistors
H703/H704 - 2SC1175 transistors
H705/H706 - 2SC371 transistors
H707/H708 - 2SA562 transistors
R713/R714 - 2.2Kohm/0.5watt resistors
R721/R722 - 3.3Kohm/0.5watt resistors
R723/R724 - 100Kohm/0.5watt trimmer
R729/R730 - 470ohm/0.5watt trimmer
R747 thru R750 - 0.5ohm/3watt fireproof resistors
R753/R754 - 10ohm/0.5watt resistors

Notes: you don't have to replace the resistors. They don't usually go bad but I like fresh replacements.

The replacements are listed below with Mouser part numbers:
C701/C702 - Nichicon 50v/0.47uf film 647-QYX1H474JTP (normally would use WIMA but was out and these were handy)
C703/C704 - Elna Silmic II 35v/220uf 555-RFS35V221MI6#5
C707 thru C710 - Elna Silmic II 50v/47uf 555-RFS50V470MH4#5
C711/C712 - Elna Silmic II 35v/10uf 555-RFS35V100ME3#5
C715/C716 - Elna Silmic II 16v/100uf 555-RFS16V101MH3#5 (watch out here - the board polarity is marked incorrectly!!)
C717/C718 - Elna Silmic II 35v/22uf 555-RFS35V220MG3#5
H701/H702 - Fairchild 512-KSC2383YTA
H703/H704 - Fairchild 512-KSC2383YTA
H705/H706 - Fairchild 512-KSC945CYTA (make sure to get the CYTA and not YTA - the extra C denotes center collector ECB which matches original)
H707/H708 - Fairchild 512-KSA733CYTA (make sure to get the CYTA and not YTA - the extra C denotes center collector ECB which matches original)
R713/R714 - KOA Speer 2.2Kohm/1watt 660-MO1C222J (increased wattage and fits in same space)
R721/R722 - KOA Speer 3.3Kohm/1watt 660-MO1C332J (increased wattage and fits in same space)
R723/R724 - Bournes 100Kohm/0.5watt 652-3386F-1-104LF
R729/R730 - Bournes 470ohm/0.5watt 652-3386F-1-471LF
R747 thru R750 - Vishay 0.5ohm/3watt fireproof 594-AC03W0R500J
R753/R754 - KOA Speer 10ohm/1watt 660-MOS1C100J (increased wattage and fits in same space)

View attachment 688825

And then finishing up with 4 other system capacitors.

The documented contents are listed below:
C001 - 10v/33uf capacitor (on the meter leads)
C004/C005 - 50v/2200uf capacitor
C006 - 63v/4700uf capacitor

The replacements are listed below with Mouser part numbers:
C001 - Elna Silmic II 25v/330uf 555-RFS25V330MG3#5 (increased voltage based on availability)
C004/C005 - Nichicon Gold Tune 63v/3300uf 647-LKG1J332MESCBK (increased voltage & uf based on availability & person preference)
C006 - Nichicon Gold Tune 80v/4700uf 647-LKG1K472MESCBK (increased voltage based on availability. in hindsight this should have been a 40mm capacitor instead of 35mm. Luckily I had an extra clamp that fit properly.)
Click to expand...
What replacement did you use for the H709-712 ? They are not listed here. Great job!
 
Thanks for this thread, finishing up a 2220 partial restore and this was very helpful. I can confirm that after initially replacing H905 and H906 on the phono board with KSC1845s as recommended early in the thread I had a 'motorboating' problem. Found a good thread on that here: https://audiokarma.org/forums/threads/phono-motorboating-solved.947416/page-4

I replaced the KSC1845s with KSC1815s for H905 and H906 and the issue was resolved.
 
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