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Marantz 2220b Sizzling?

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acidtest64

New Member
I recently picked up a very good condition Marantz 2220b to use with my Klipsch KG3s. I have to say it is the best sounding receiving speaker combination I've ever heard, at least in my experience as a young audio enthusiast with not much to invest in this hobby!

Anyhow, although all stages work and sound great, I have this problem when I hit the power button to turn the unit on where it appears to be sizzling. This sound comes from the unit itself, around the power button. If I turn the volume up, it replicates in the speakers. The lights will also flicker as it makes this horrible sizzling sound. It does this with the new LEDS installed, and with the original lamps.

However this goes away after a short time and sounds great for hours. Without fail though, once I turn it back on, it sizzles again. I am certainly no expert in electronics, but I can solder if I know what to solder. I'd like to avoid having to do this though. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Also, I have been reading threads for two years in this community, but only recently created an account when I picked up my Marantz. So thank you to all of the contributors and posters that I have learned from since then!
 
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same thing happens to my pioneer sx 550...seems like it has a hard time engaging for about a second before it "snaps" to. I haven't had a chance to open it up since it has been out of the rotation. I know this is absolutely no help, but at least i feel your pain.
 
Step 1. Get a DMM (Digital Multi Meter)
Step 2. Download the manual
Step 3. Review Manual
Step 4. Ask questions, we are all here to help.

Welcome to the addiction.
 
Ok, For starters you are going to be working around the primary side of the transformer....So this is mains Voltage and dangerous if you dont know what you are doing...you could go out and buy an iron and a DMM as well as a few other things...or you could take it to someone either qualified or experienced.
This is sometimes the best option.
it could be a few things....
if you want to do it your self, you could start by accessing the power switch, try and get it out without disconnecting it, get it into a position where you can take a photo and post it.
I would start by taking a couple of alligator test leads and jumping across the switch. Then powering up the unit and re testing....if the problem goes away then you know its the switch before you have de soldered anything...you might also want to replace the capacitor (Spark arrestor)
 
I had one (gave it away a while back) but I didn't look to closely, if the switch is arcing and there's a cap around it probably cap should be replaced as well as switch either cleaned or replaced...
 
Here is another "must have" for tuning up your 2220b: a spray can of DeOxit. I had the same sizzling issue on my 2275 and I cleared it up by cleaning the "pots" or switches behind the knobs on the faceplate. My problem was a dirty tone mode pot. I hope this makes sense.
 
I have used deoxit as well as mg chemicals cleaners, and faderlube/fadergrease where necessary with good results. This unit, however, is very clean already, having been cleaned by the previous owner. I've had no scratchiness or any other trouble that usually can be traced to dirty pots or faders.

With my limited knowledge I have decided to try replacing the power switch. I have purchased one and have removed the original.

The power switch has some kind of capacitor attached to the side of the switch. I have read that this is a safety cap? I have read that this one would suffice:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/kemet/C981U103MYVDBA7317/399-9537-3-ND/3645142

However, it looks more like a film capacitor. Any suggestions as to which one I can buy to install?

There are four wires connecting to the power switch, along with the capacitor, like this:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/252327978675?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I've also included my own photo of the power switch before disconnecting it.

Am I able to install the new switch in the same configuration? Will the capacitor need to be installed in a particular direction, or does it matter?
 

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It is an arc supression cap and the one you have a link to is safe. The original may be a combo component that also has a 120 ohm resistor in sereis internally. What does the lettering on the part say?

You need to use the same configuration for sure! The cap (or combo unit) is not polarized so may go on either way. If you bought a new switch the old knob will likely not fit.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone. I've had more time to work on this and I've gathered some parts. I have connected the new switch in the same configuration as the last switch, but I think it may have melted while I was soldering, as the posts were wiggling in the plastic casing. Anyhow, here I a photo of what I did.

I plugged it in to test it but the power button did nothing, and the lights were on until I unplugged it. No sizzling sound though, so maybe not a total failure. Any idea what I did wrong? If I destroyed my switch, should I buy a few new ones and try again? What now?
 

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Did you use lead free solder? The joints kind of look like it. Since it is 99+% tin it takes a lot of heat to melt and could have led to harming the switch. I'd say you have to try again. The solder I use is the old school tin lead alloy. I also highly recommend sleeving on the arc supression cap leads, 1/16" heatshrink would work nicely. Not so much heat on round 2!
 
I recently had the same problem with my 2240B two weeks ago, it's a common issue with these switches. Not only did I hear It arcing, it would also stick when turning off. I found an original replacement and added an rc snubber using a .01uf 275v film and 1/2w 100ohm resistor. Total cost under 10 bucks and took 30 mins.

20160417_094444.jpg

You did the right thing by correcting this issue as it could've been a fire hazard.
 
Alright new power switch is in and operational on the second try! Everything turns on and works as it should, no sizzling! Now I have a new problem if anyone can help me. I also replaced the pointer lamp with and LED. It worked at first, but now it does not. I have tried resoldering several times, and I have tried additional LED lamps and none of them work either. Is there something I am missing? The lamp is just a wire that connects in two places, I don't know where the problem would be.
 
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