Marantz 2220B - To Recap or Not to Recap...

[Dig22]

Hi,
The Marantz 2220B is a keeper. Great unit. Working fine at the moment.

I've worked on tube amps, but not on circuit boards like in the Marantz. So question is: should I service it? I've looked under the hood and changed the vellum and original lights to LEDs, but if the unit is working fine, should I recap it?

I've looked at kits on Ebay. This kit seems a bit dear, but it has step-by-step instructions:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1551265160...ggCAefDztYQ2C8r9ktM4IItJyos=|tkp:BFBM0obhj8Nh

Is it worth it? Has anyone had experience with these cap kits?

Also, I need to replace a speaker terminal. Where's a good place for Marantz parts?

Thanks in advance!

 

[ivandezande]

I don’t see a relay, trimmers, or transistors in there.

Worthless.
Also that guy makes garbage repro volume controls and doesn’t accept returns.

eBay to look for parts.

 

[Tala Mink]

I personally like ordering what's needed from digikey or mouser, there should be some other threads of restorations if the 2220B so you could cross-reference them for the parts you need.

Also just looking at kits on ebay this one seems to be much more complete and cheaper, also I have bought from this seller (film capacitors) and they have nice stuff.

If your soldering on circuit boards you should get a temp controlled soldering iron if you don't have one, I like to keep my iron around 550f, if you go too high in temp you can damage the traces that the solder stick to.

it depends on the condition of the amp how much it will benefit from a recap, some amps sound better, some the same, and some worse, usually recaps give peace of mind and cleaner power.

 

[Sitka]

Hi,
The Marantz 2220B is a keeper. Great unit. Working fine at the moment.

I've worked on tube amps, but not on circuit boards like in the Marantz. So question is: should I service it? I've looked under the hood and changed the vellum and original lights to LEDs, but if the unit is working fine, should I recap it?

I've looked at kits on Ebay. This kit seems a bit dear, but it has step-by-step instructions:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155126516049?hash=item241e42c951:g:RNgAAOSwcOFhLgmg&amdata=enc:AQAHAAABAJDI/DOq2w+n7cMyvXjWGbQ7l4r3Om/tCPm48UnHykfZXgBhxINAIvuIhUm99Ar2adyn+zSnC5WKWZ7OgtPsR3Dv3QWCmO1c2yA+ltZqUaSeABc6gi+s6+iiqO221A8G8Z7qB7InHsgVD/GKE/UHiCM9Aze+MLuSZn2cI65U7vq7Wn08tyo9H3lhRDT1KiTOG94wjvXO/oXqd/CnM4SXdtPt67WxECByA0kWbWbCIpfElUMvIKcpdjQsokYcU6feqzL8+YzYpYP6DaAW/+jGrbO/N+TM44CnYLjnqRzooRk666bHneiLRupOZknqggCAefDztYQ2C8r9ktM4IItJyos=|tkp:BFBM0obhj8Nh

Is it worth it? Has anyone had experience with these cap kits?

Also, I need to replace a speaker terminal. Where's a good place for Marantz parts?

Thanks in advance!

I'm in the same boat - my 2238b is running fine on all original parts. But I'm looking at a relay replacement project soon, maybe the filter caps too, we'll see. It's a waiting game... if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Took it to a shop last year, asked for a cap check,...he said it passed the "heat test" no need to replace the caps. What's a heat test I asked? he said after it is warmed up 20 min, he touches the capacitors with his finger, if it is not hot it is ok. If hot to the touch, they need replaced

I order parts from digikey / mouser in advance.

 

[glend123]

I bought this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124995467820?hash=item1d1a4f7a2c:g:G9YAAOSwcFJhin9W
And recapped the PS and that fixed the problem of it cutting out.
Then I went ahead and did the full recap. It sounds awesome now!
I had no experience with this before and putting together a list from Mouser was a pain because some of the stuff is out of stock
or you need to know what the new replacement # is or the service manual is wrong.... I just wanted to start fixing it so I ordered the kit.

 

[ivandezande]

I'm in the same boat - my 2238b is running fine on all original parts. But I'm looking at a relay replacement project soon, maybe the filter caps too, we'll see. It's a waiting game... if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Took it to a shop last year, asked for a cap check,...he said it passed the "heat test" no need to replace the caps. What's a heat test I asked? he said after it is warmed up 20 min, he touches the capacitors with his finger, if it is not hot it is ok. If hot to the touch, they need replaced

I order parts from digikey / mouser in advance.

If it ain’t broke, it will break. It’s a 50 year old piece of electronics…..

Preventative maintaining.
Also that tech must be on some hallucinogenics.

 

[Dig22]

If it ain’t broke, it will break. It’s a 50 year old piece of electronics…..

Preventative maintaining.
Also that tech must be on some hallucinogenics.

I personally like ordering what's needed from digikey or mouser, there should be some other threads of restorations if the 2220B so you could cross-reference them for the parts you need.

Also just looking at kits on ebay this one seems to be much more complete and cheaper, also I have bought from this seller (film capacitors) and they have nice stuff.

If your soldering on circuit boards you should get a temp controlled soldering iron if you don't have one, I like to keep my iron around 550f, if you go too high in temp you can damage the traces that the solder stick to.

it depends on the condition of the amp how much it will benefit from a recap, some amps sound better, some the same, and some worse, usually recaps give peace of mind and cleaner power.

Thank you!

 

[Dig22]

I bought this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124995467820?hash=item1d1a4f7a2c:g:G9YAAOSwcFJhin9W
And recapped the PS and that fixed the problem of it cutting out.
Then I went ahead and did the full recap. It sounds awesome now!
I had no experience with this before and putting together a list from Mouser was a pain because some of the stuff is out of stock
or you need to know what the new replacement # is or the service manual is wrong.... I just wanted to start fixing it so I ordered the kit.

Did he send instructions and if/so were they good? Did you replace the output transistors and protection relay? He recommends to do so.

Thanks!

 

[Dig22]

If it ain’t broke, it will break. It’s a 50 year old piece of electronics…..

Preventative maintaining.
Also that tech must be on some hallucinogenics.

I haven't checked the power supply. I'm thinking if I'm going to do any of it, I'll do it all.

 

[petes'picks]

Most of those kits I have looked at are overpriced in my experience. How long ago did they purchased the caps and where they got the caps are unknowns that scare me away. Learning about what options are available and the specs of components are part of the journey so I recommend looking at Mouser and Digikey for options. If this isnt the last receiver/amp you plan on tinkering with then ordering at least 10 caps of values you need bring the prices down so your parts will be cheaper for this one, the next one and the next one.

 

[Dig22]

Most of those kits I have looked at are overpriced in my experience. How long ago did they purchased the caps and where they got the caps are unknowns that scare me away. Learning about what options are available and the specs of components are part of the journey so I recommend looking at Mouser and Digikey for options. If this isnt the last receiver/amp you plan on tinkering with then ordering at least 10 caps of values you need bring the prices down so your parts will be cheaper for this one, the next one and the next one.

The problem I'm seeing with ordering parts is that I don't know what parts needs ordering. When I work on tube amps, it's all capacitors and resistors with the odd diode here and there. But for the 2220B, when I look at the service manual, I see massive amounts of parts - transistors, resistors, diodes, relays, capacitors.... does everything need replacement? A kit with instructions answers a lot of questions for my first time dealing with so many circuit boards.

 

[petes'picks]

Depends on if you want to sling solder or if you want to learn about components and why the circuit needs what it needs. Its a long journey to fully understand and wish it was easier sometimes but if it was too easy most would have become bored and moved on by now. I have been at it for 10 years now and still do not understand things as well as those that have been doing it for 20 or 30 years... but even those guys havent reached the end of the tunnel yet. The soldering part was a 2 day lesson, the really rewarding part is when you start to understand the components and circuits.

If I were you there is no way I would attempt a wholesale parts replacement, although if you go slow you shouldnt have issues doing only the caps. No matter what you decide to replace, do it one channel on one board at a time then listen and/or measure before continuing on to the next section. Tracing a bad solder joint, part installed backwards or new defective part after wholesale parts replacement will ruin the hobby for you. Reassembling and testing after each section is a pain but it is nothing compared to figuring out what went wrong in which section after wholesale parts replacement.

No way would I bother with changing all resistors, I test them and if within 10% I move on. Same with diodes. Transistors I check the list of bad known transistors to see if any are in the circuit and leave all the rest if working. Capacitors I check the values. DF and ESR and sometimes those old ChemiCon, Elna and Nichicon test better than the fresh ones in my parts bin. Relays are really easy to tell if bad, if one channel or both drop out, cranking volume up past 10 o'clock,to see if the increased current cuts through the crude on contacts, also tapping on it will usually reveal relays with dirty contacts.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...ilure-prone-whatever-and-replacements.731653/

Not saying you shouldnt attempt refreshing it, just go slow. You can always open it up and refresh more of it at a later time.

 

[Sitka]

If it ain’t broke, it will break. It’s a 50 year old piece of electronics…..

Preventative maintaining.
Also that tech must be on some hallucinogenics.

Well...that may be. I thought standard procedure was to test the capacitors with an ESR meter, but he didn't use one. Nevertheless, he has been in business a long time, and the unit is performing just fine.

yes, sooner or later they will fail ( doesn't everything?) I'll repair when needed. in the meantime, enjoy the music.

 

[glend123]

Did he send instructions and if/so were they good? Did you replace the output transistors and protection relay? He recommends to do so.

Thanks!

Yes they were pretty good. still requires some thinking unless you're familiar with all the terminology. I did all the output transistors and the relay!
I would just order the kit, and then next time, now that you have some hands on experience, order the parts yourself.

 

[Dig22]

Yes they were pretty good. still requires some thinking unless you're familiar with all the terminology. I did all the output transistors and the relay!
I would just order the kit, and then next time, now that you have some hands on experience, order the parts yourself.

Thanks. I'm leaning toward the kit.

 

[soundguy9]

Thanks. I'm leaning toward the kit.

Hello All, I also have a very good sounding Marantz 2220B. The sound was so good that I decided to recap it so I don’t loose the unit to a failed component. I am an engineer with many years of experience in electronics contract manufacturing and I have been soldering since I was 9 so this board is no challenge for me today.


Started with the power supply board, and found large amounts of glue underneath the parts. I managed to get the parts out and dress the sites without any problem.

Anyhow, the new caps arrived from Digikey and Mouser and were soldered on the board. But I forgot to trim the supply voltage. The unit sounded horrible! Huh, adjusted the supply voltage, it was 35.4V now back to 35V.
There is no improvement in the sound.

The caps are very high quality Nichicon FG capacitors! So they can not be the problem.
Moved to adjusting the bias and DC offset on the amp circuit and replacing the transistors and regulators, and filter caps. The sound improved slightly but it was not anything like the original! Now fear is starting to set in.

Couple of days past, I told myself that I would have to save the unit no matter what, so I started placing back the original caps. Soldering the original filter caps made it sound worst but I left them on the board and moved on to the power supply board.

Finally, replaced the C803 and C804 with original caps and the problem went away, but now there are other problems.

Anyhow, I am looking at the replacement capacitors at C803 and C804. Do you see a problem with the caps?

 

[ivandezande]

Hello All, I also have a very good sounding Marantz 2220B. The sound was so good that I decided to recap it so I don’t loose the unit to a failed component. I am an engineer with many years of experience in electronics contract manufacturing and I have been soldering since I was 9 so this board is no challenge for me today.


Started with the power supply board, and found large amounts of glue underneath the parts. I managed to get the parts out and dress the sites without any problem.

Anyhow, the new caps arrived from Digikey and Mouser and were soldered on the board. But I forgot to trim the supply voltage. The unit sounded horrible! Huh, adjusted the supply voltage, it was 35.4V now back to 35V.
There is no improvement in the sound.

The caps are very high quality Nichicon FG capacitors! So they can not be the problem.
Moved to adjusting the bias and DC offset on the amp circuit and replacing the transistors and regulators, and filter caps. The sound improved slightly but it was not anything like the original! Now fear is starting to set in.

Couple of days past, I told myself that I would have to save the unit no matter what, so I started placing back the original caps. Soldering the original filter caps made it sound worst but I left them on the board and moved on to the power supply board.

Finally, replaced the C803 and C804 with original caps and the problem went away, but now there are other problems.

Anyhow, I am looking at the replacement capacitors at C803 and C804. Do you see a problem with the caps?

Are you sure you had put them in correctly? A few caps wouldn’t make a unit sound terrible. Something else had happened.

 

[soundguy9]

Are you sure you had put them in correctly? A few caps wouldn’t make a unit sound terrible. Something else had happened.

I was also surprised. There is not much room for error. The silkscreen clearly marks the + lead.
I am surprised that the 63V and 50V have the same package, height and diameter. I am planning to check the datasheet for the size variance.

 

[soundguy9]

I might have found the root cause of the problem. The tone board is secured with the 3 nuts and washers that hold the pots to the front of the chassis and the board sits too far forward on the chassis over the front lip of the chassis. There is a plastic/dielectric layer glued to the chassis under the tone board. The gap between the dielectric and the board is very small and it trapped some Deoxit from cleaning the pots.
I removed the board, cleaned and dryed the Deoxit that was in contact with the solder joints and the problem went away. I have not yet placed back the nichicons on the board but I am sure that the above was the root cause not the capacitors.

This unit is the final versio of the 2220B with a FM Dolby board that sits between the Phono and tuner boards. I do not know if the same is ture for the earlier versions of the unit.

 

[soundguy9]

Received the replacement Panasonic FC capacitors and placed them on the power supply board today. I also replaced the dual diodes.
The sound is just amazing and breathtaking! There is absolutely no noise or hum with the volume to the max. The base is crisp and the highs are sweet sounding.
It took a while to get here but it was worth all the effort.