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Marantz 2230 "Throw Down" What's all the Buzz?

Ths364 said:
Did you get a "before" listen, or are you just jumping in?
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I did get a before listen. Prior to starting I always like to deoxit and general cleaning and do a full test of all inputs and take some measurements to make sure the patient is healthy before jumping in to the rebuild. I also take a break and a listen after each board just to be safe before I move on. I can comment on sound later, as I like the caps to play awhile before a serious listen.
 
bobins08 said:
How come? I recall in your 2245/2270 recap thread you did extensive bypass cap comparisons.

:lurk:
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You are correct, however I did remove them. There are 2 schools of thought on a bypass in this position:

*There are many that have great success using them, and install them as a part of a rebuild.

*I had been installing them and then take a listen and they do have some very positive effects, quieter background and removal of hash and noise. They do also to me slightly change the depth and sound-field perspective. There are also a lot of measurements and other technical data you would need to actually pick out the right value bypass in each individual location to be used. I have a link to an article on this, I will see if I can find it. What I have been doing is using "fast" soft recovery diodes on the P/S Board which also has a positive effect on noise.
 
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daveyh said:
Are you going share a lists of parts you used with us for future reference?? I'm liking it!
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Yes, power supply stuff is in post #11. I will get the amp and large caps up tonight and copy and paste the P/S and continue like that so all is in one place.
 
patfont said:
You are correct, however I did remove them. There are 2 schools of thought on a bypass in this position:

*There are many that have great success using them, and install them as a part of a rebuild.

*I had been installing them and then take a listen and they do have some very positive effects, quieter background and removal of hash and noise. They do also to me slightly change the depth and sound-field perspective. There are also a lot of measurements and other technical data you would need to actually pick out the right value bypass in each individual location to be used. I have a link to an article on this, I will see if I can find it. What I have been doing is using "fast" soft recovery diodes on the P/S Board which also has a positive effect on noise.
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Thanks for the detailed reply. I can see that bypass caps could get tricky and actually change the sound, in a way that might not be desirable.

Do you think that for something like main filter caps there is a sonic benefit that is easier to reach?

This is another great thread BTW.
 
bobins08 said:
Thanks for the detailed reply. I can see that bypass caps could get tricky and actually change the sound, in a way that might not be desirable.

Do you think that for something like main filter caps there is a sonic benefit that is easier to reach?

This is another great thread BTW.
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Thank you for the kind words;

I like to see the inner workings of high end audio equipment, I see some 40K amps that do not use bypass caps, and I see some other very very expensive gear that do use bypass caps. For the main filters on Marantz gear the defacto standard is to add a 2.2uf film cap across each large cap. What I would do is install a 2.2uf cap across your main filters and make sure you listen to them for a min. of 50 hours. Then simply clip them off and use your ears to decide if that is what you would like to do.
 
The top side of the 2230 is complete, Power Supply, both amp boards and the large caps are done. Now just need to do the Pre and Phono boards.

-output transistors were removed and thermal compound refreshed and reinstalled with new mica

-idle current is set

-clipping levels are set

-amp is burning in and sounding fine

-temperature at the heat sink of the 4 outputs is within approx 1 degree

-there are no "hot spots"

Some pics:




Top side view:

 
Yes...Looking froward to this recap...

I have been using more of Cornell Dubilier for the Main Caps.

Will be watching.....
 
Phono Board is complete, I will get the running parts list up to date for those who have asked.

*******R708/R709 are adjusted

A couple of shots:



 
If I am viewing your photos correctly, it seems that you did not perform as extensive a recapping as you did on your 2245 thread. If that's correct, why the change?

I'll be anxious to see how you treat the tone amp PCB.
 
hirscwi said:
If I am viewing your photos correctly, it seems that you did not perform as extensive a recapping as you did on your 2245 thread. If that's correct, why the change?

I'll be anxious to see how you treat the tone amp PCB.
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What are you seeing that I missed?:scratch2:
 
I thought that you replaced C701, C702, C714, & C715 in your 2245 phono board rebuild. That was a great thread but I haven't looked at it for a month or so. Perhaps I'm remembering it wrong.
 
hirscwi said:
I thought that you replaced C701, C702, C714, & C715 in your 2245 phono board rebuild. That was a great thread but I haven't looked at it for a month or so. Perhaps I'm remembering it wrong.
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oh ok I got ya.......

Yes C701/C702 and C714/C715
These are the really really dirty and ugly looking Marantz films: IMHO they are very very good and part of the Marantz magic. If you do look at all my other rebuilds you will see I have literally tried many many films in these locations on the phono, pre board and amp boards. Unless you are willing to spend at a minimum of 15.00 each for a Mundorf Supreme or better it will be hard to beat them. I am doing the pre board now and feel it will be really nice sounding.
 
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