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Marantz 2230 "Throw Down" What's all the Buzz?

As promised her is a pic of the completed Preamp Board:

the pictured Elna cerafines have been replaced with Silmic II all else remains the same.



 
Hmmm..... No wire wrap connections or slip on connectors in those 2230...and the wiring is heavier than later units..... Hint....

patfont said:
Ok she is all done and looking and sounding fine, I want to let it run and settle in a bit before any real serious listening.

Also going to re-lamp while I am at it.

Finished pics of the Preamp Board;

will update parts list to include this last board in a bit.




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Polarbear said:
I think he's just saying that the last of the 2230's made had wire wrap and are thinner gauge wire (that's when they started to cheap out).
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I did not say that....did pat say that? Or are you saying that?

I don't know what anyone is saying...except me.... :D
 
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What I meant was that many newer units have wire wrap and slip on connections...compared the early unit like the 2230, 2245, 2270.... All those units and other early ones are 100% soldered.

The 2230 is sweet sounding for many reasons...besides being cap couple...

That's what I meant to say... I think...:scratch2:

jstang said:
Hmmm..... No wire wrap connections or slip on connectors in those 2230...and the wiring is heavier than later units..... Hint....
Click to expand...
 
Just wanted to get the finished product shot up here.


I decided to put in LED's from "CKeeler"

I am by no means an LED guy I find most annoying to much pop and unnatural to what I used to see of that nice blue glow of bygone days.

These are very nice- excellent color, very sharp, and not annoying, and just the right amount of a subtle "pop" with out going overboard, I like em!



 
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Picked up a long sought after 2230 at a local estate auction ($10 with JBL L26 spkrs) :O

Just another "thank you" for putting this thread up and documenting your parts and reasoning for same.

My unit pre-tested 100% operational. Getting ready to restore during this winter. This thread has eliminated a lot of time in research. Thanks again.
 
First post awesome, and welcome to AK. Hope to see your 2230 thread up here soon! BTW amazing pick up they will sound awesome together I was running mine on L40's, and then up with the B&W 805's.

Pat







papatriot said:
Picked up a long sought after 2230 at a local estate auction ($10 with JBL L26 spkrs) :O

Just another "thank you" for putting this thread up and documenting your parts and reasoning for same.

My unit pre-tested 100% operational. Getting ready to restore during this winter. This thread has eliminated a lot of time in research. Thanks again.
Click to expand...
 
Patfont:

Q1 - why did you not use all WIMA caps for the four 3.3/25 parts that are called for on this board? (you used a combo of WIMA and Silmic)... aren't they the exact same value part and roughly have the same amount of room available?

Q2 - I've never seen it recommended to replace resistors as part of a standard rebuild/upgrade of this board... why did you chose to replace those 2 specific resistors (with the big black ones (390ohm AMRG), and no others?.... what difference in sound does it make and is it worth it?

thanks!
 
ssouci said:
Patfont:

Q1 - why did you use 2 different WIMA caps for the four 3.3/25 parts that are called for on this board? (MKS4 and MKS2)... aren't they the exact same value part and roughly have the same amount of room available?

Q2 - I've never seen it recommended to replace resistors as part of a standard rebuild/upgrade of this board... why did you chose to replace those 2 specific resistors (with the big black ones (390ohm AMRG), and no others?.... what difference in sound does it make and is it worth it?

thanks!
Click to expand...

ok for the qty of 4 3.3uf Wima Films you usually see, I used 2 Wima Films the small box shaped and 2 Silmic II 3.3uf. The MKS4 you see are 1uf and are 10mm which fits perfect, and I prefer over the ECQ. The MKS4 has a very delicate and nice high end, the other 1uf caps are the Silmic Bipolor.

So for the 4X 3.3 I use 2 Silmic and 2 Wima MKS2
and for the 4X 1uf I use 2 Silmic Bipolor and 2 Wima MKS4

I use the AMRG's on any Marantz Preboard in that location, that is the first part that the signal passes through on that board. It adds transparency and warmth to the signal that IMHO this board needs as it is recapped to modern standards. It keeps your Marantz sounding all Marantzy! I am waiting for the 1st person to try them in this location and report back. Google Riken resistor and you will see all the nice comments these are a little better.

As I already mentioned the C405/C406 Elna Cerafines in the pic are now Silmic II.
 
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Patfont: sorry, but I edited my initial post after I realized that the 2 central caps were in fact 1uF (my mistake!)... I then re-asked why you used a *combination* of both WIMA and Silmics, for the exact same 3.3/25 value locations... I usually see people using all 4 of the WIMAs here

personally, I used all Silmic 3.3/100 (4 of them)... I could not get Silmic 3.3/50, hence using the higher 100V rating... I have since regretted that choice, since it seems the 100V rating is too high, so I'm considering pulling those 4 Silmics and swapping in WIMAs, since I've heard it's best to avoid electrolytics whenever possible... any thoughts on this? will I hear a difference with 100V rating? (original Marantz is 3.3/25), so the 25V is much lower than my 100V
 
ssouci said:
Patfont: sorry, but I edited my initial post after I realized that the 2 central caps were in fact 1uF (my mistake!)... I then re-asked why you used a *combination* of both WIMA and Silmics, for the exact same 3.3/25 value locations... I usually see people using all 4 of the WIMAs here

personally, I used all Silmic 3.3/100 (4 of them)... I could not get Silmic 3.3/50, hence using the higher 100V rating... I have since regretted that choice, since it seems the 100V rating is too high, so I'm considering pulling those 4 Silmics and swapping in WIMAs, since I've heard it's best to avoid electrolytics whenever possible... any thoughts on this? will I hear a difference with 100V rating? (original Marantz is 3.3/25), so the 25V is much lower than my 100V
Click to expand...

I remember your original post asking about the 100V caps. I value the 1uf position for the MKS4 more then that 3.3uf position, so I am able to use the MKS4 with the 3.3uf Silmic because the Wima 3.3uf legs are very short and will not reach. I know you could mount (3.3 Wima MKS2) on the bottom of the board, but I like the nice blend of Wima MKS2 MKS4, Silmic, and Silmic Bipolors, along with the AMRG resistors on this board.
 
ssouci said:
Patfont: sorry, but I edited my initial post after I realized that the 2 central caps were in fact 1uF (my mistake!)... I then re-asked why you used a *combination* of both WIMA and Silmics, for the exact same 3.3/25 value locations... I usually see people using all 4 of the WIMAs here

personally, I used all Silmic 3.3/100 (4 of them)... I could not get Silmic 3.3/50, hence using the higher 100V rating... I have since regretted that choice, since it seems the 100V rating is too high, so I'm considering pulling those 4 Silmics and swapping in WIMAs, since I've heard it's best to avoid electrolytics whenever possible... any thoughts on this? will I hear a difference with 100V rating? (original Marantz is 3.3/25), so the 25V is much lower than my 100V
Click to expand...


ooops sorry missed a part, I would just leave the 3.3 Silmics in there, and not worry.
 
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