Marantz 2230B Recap Project - Started

[cowdog360]

Ok,

I bought my 2230B from a friend and am starting my rebuild project on it. Already got the blue LED's installed and new vellum.

Now I'm on to replacing the relay, caps, differential pairs and some diodes.

I followed some of the excellent combination of lists that people put together for the 2220B. Apparently these are almost identical units, so the caps are pretty much all the same.

I'm going to use a combination of elna silmic II's, Nichicon Fine golds and some panasonics in the power supply.

I've created some shopping cart/projects on digikey and mouser that I can share out in case anyone else is interested. It's a total of about $55 for all the parts, which isn't too bad.

I'm excited to try out my new Hakko FR-300 desoldering iron and FX888D station! I'll post pics as soon as I get it all going!

Here's a link to my mouser shopping cart which contains the parts for the Power Supply and Tone board, Main filter caps, Relay and 20 of the transistors to match up for the differential pairs: (Note that I selected WIMA films for the bipolar caps, but that's the only time I chose films)

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=4e918653cb


Here are all the parts from digikey to complete the mouser order:
http://www.digikey.com/short/7rhf3c

 

[Jedidiah]

FWIW it took me year to buy a Hakko FR-300 and holy beans am i kicking my self for not doing it years ago. i love it!

as you are using it wiggle the part from the other side of the board at the same time and that will pull the solder from under the leads so when you set the FR300 down the part will just pop right out.

for all the marantzs i use it on i only have to have it set on 1.75 or 2

 

[patfont]

Looking forward to see this and some pics? I really like the 2220B very nice sounding unit.

 

[mrki]

Elna Silmics II, Nichcon FG (and KZ) and Panasonic FM are excellent combination for recapping I often to use, especially for power supply.
For main filter caps try Nichicon KG Gold Tune type III (with soldernig lugs). One of the best caps I ever use.
Good luck, have a lot of fun and dont't forget to post some pictures.

 

[cowdog360]

Got the digikey parts today. First thing I loved was putting the capacitor numbers on each one during the order. Very easy to find the caps I want.

First off, a naked shot of the unit:


A shot of the semi-cleaned insides:


The tools I'm using, a Hakko FR300 desolding gun (Get one if you don't have it, it's amazing!), a FX88D soldering station, silver bearing solder, articlean.



First board up was the dolby board. Time to break in the Hakko's and see what they can do.


And 5 minutes later, the tantalums all replaced with Nichicon Fine gold 1uf


Next up, I started the phono board tonight and will finish in the morning. Removed all the electrolytics, already replaced two with the elna's. Wow, the new caps are a lot smaller! Gotta get out the Articlean to get that glue off of C421 then put the rest of the silmics in, and replace the tantalums as well.


So far, I've only spent less than 30 minutes in it. Seriously, the desoldering gun is the best tool I've purchased for electronics in the last 20 years.

 

[rBuckner]

So far so awesome! :yes:

 

[cowdog360]

Thanks, I'm about to go start back up. When I started using the articlean my nose said "This is an orange cleaner". Grabbed some Goof Off and it also works just as well. So in short, save yourself bucks and buy goof off instead. I'm also being lazy and just doing everything in place without actually removing the boards.

Oh yeah, I was looking at my capacitors and then looking at the power amp board (700). I'm sure others have noted this, but the PCB has two C709's. One is a 47uf, and the other is the bigger 220uf. The larger one is actually C719, but the PCB is silkscreened wrong.

 

[Bunty2]

After recapping my 2235B, the phono output is kinda noisy from hiss, especially at higher volume level. I wonder if that means I need to replace the 6 transistors on the phono board? They're all 2SC1328.

 

[cowdog360]

Bunty, not sure.. did you make sure all the cap polarities are right? Maybe pat will chime in here.

Ok, so on to board 200. I started popping all the caps out and there's an extra cap that isn't documented in the service manual. It's a 47uf 10V electrolytic. The negative goes towards the front of the receiver. No name for the cap on the silkscreen, and no polarity marks on the board either. It's got some insulation on the legs too. Well, I'm going to steal the 47uf 25V cap I have for board 100 for now so I can finish this board up.


Wow, I really need to clean this dirty board!

 

[cowdog360]

Oh man, board 300 also has an undocumented cap.. and of course several .22uf caps that are bipolar, which I ordered polarized for. So guess I need to order up a bunch more caps!

 

[cowdog360]

After recapping my 2235B, the phono output is kinda noisy from hiss, especially at higher volume level. I wonder if that means I need to replace the 6 transistors on the phono board? They're all 2SC1328.

I noticed after the recap my phono section in popping and hissing a little too. I'm going to replace the transistors as well. Cheap and easy.

 

[cowdog360]

Ah, the learning process continues. Got my mouser order in today.. ordered the wrong voltage values on the main filters.. some parts are missing.

I did manage to get the power supply board going. Here's before:


And after trying to remove the glue and then replacing all the caps with a mixture of Nichicon's and Panasonic FC/FM's:


Just need to get the rest of that board cleaned, put some new thermal material on the heatsink and replace the diodes for good measure. Everything still powers up and sounds great, so far so good!

 

[patfont]

On the 2230B there would be no reason to remove any boards as you have great access from the bottom. The 2230 is an easy one. Just be careful when you get to seperating the amp board from the heat sink that you are very careful not to break any of the delicate bias diodes. One on each side. Also double check the SM and the Marantz SM error thread because if this is like the 2220B the test points are listed wrong, and you can get magic smoke!

 

[c.coyle]

+1

I can tell you from direct, personal experience that those bias diodes are easy to FUBAR. And hard to find.

 

[cowdog360]

Thanks I'm being very careful. Got the amp board caps done. Now to replace the differential pairs. I bought 20 transistors and wound up with 5 pairs that all match within 1-2 mV HFE. The relay I bought was the wrong one, looks like the one on my board is different

 

[cowdog360]

Getting a little closer. Waiting on some more parts to arrive so I can finish up. Tackled the P700 amp board. It has new caps now. I've matched up my diff pairs and will put them in tommorrow. Regreasing the output transistors. Gave the whole unit a spray down with simple green and distilled water followed by 30 psi air blast and hair dryer. Looks pretty clean in there now!



Also replaced the dial indicator lamp since I had one on hand. Just need to find the stereo indicator lamp and then the lighting is all finished.

Looking forward to the results. I will say I love working on this, it's easy and fun.. unlike the kenwood amps I have that are more challenging.

 

[SteveMarantz]

Looks like you're doing a great job! I just started restoring my old 2230B that I hadn't even powered up for many years. Got it recapped (except for the front end board and the Dolby bds.) and replaced the dial lamps and meter lamps with LEDs.

I'm having a problem adjusting the Power Amp and also not getting any FM stereo. I posted a thread about it hoping to get some help/suggestions.

Hope yours turns out well.

 

[cowdog360]

Thanks! Seems to be going well. Just got done replacing the differential pairs, the two epoxy diodes, and the relay. After that, I got me new 8200uf Nichicon filters all ready.

Got some ring terminals and crimped/soldered them to the legs of the caps.




And installed!


Gotta get the diff pairs shrink wrapped tommorrow then I'll put the amp board back in and give it a power up test. Hoping I did it all correctly!

 

[cowdog360]

And some great progress today. Here's the pics of the filters installed from the bottom:


Here's the filters from the top and a shot of the amp board with all new caps, differntial pairs shrinked up, and new diodes on H705 and H706. I just used 2 1N4148 in series. You can also see the new relay. That one silmic down bottom just barely clears, whew!


And fired it up on dim bulb, works! Adjusted bias on both channels to a rock solid 20.0mv. Fired it up and sounds great! Now to finish a few little things then I can button her up.

 

[cowdog360]

Back to it again tonight. Just working on this thing about 30 minutes here and there as time permits.

Dialing in the voltages with the clip on grabber leads. Very nice and safe very trying to hold long probes and turn the pots. Let the unit run for about 30 minutes to get up to temp before adjusting the voltages.



My stereo indicator lamp was out, so I cut the leads at the bulb and soldered them to a 5mm red 800mcd LED. It's a wide angle one from radio shack (PN 276-0309), got the idea from another thread. Put a 1K ohm resistor in series on the positive lead, shrink wrapped it and stuck it in position with a dab of hot glue.


Here you can see it all lit up. It's all LED except the dial pointer, which is a brand new incandescent. I may make an LED for that as well, but for now it all looks nice and vibrant.


It's been playing the radio for the last few hours just breaking in the caps and sounding great.