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Marantz 2500e.. needs a bit of elbow grease

txturbo

txturbo

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I have seen dirty audio equipment but this is a bit much to see....

So I negotiated a deal and now it's on it's way. The good news is that the unit is functional, if you can believe it. I am not really sure where to start... Anyone know the difference between the 2500 and 2500e?

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Welcome to AK! Let us know where you are from, and where you are getting this unit from.

2500e is the Euro multi-voltage version, you can see the voltages listed on the label, and the round voltage selector on the back panel. Can't quite tell but is it already in a 120V use mode?

At the moment, everything is cosmetic staining, wouldn't be surprised if it reeked of nicotine and smoke. Some scratches and dings visible too. The heavy dust on the fan indicates lots of potential for dust in the cooling tunnel, but that's not unusual. When you have the cover off, that will tell the tale.

Did it do duty in a home, or in a restaurant or bar? A nice faceplate and knobs off cleaning will be in order. Time to get a bunch of DeOxit for the electronics controls, and gentle cleaning materials, there are lots of cleaning threads in the Marantz forum.

Congrats!
 
mech986 said:
Welcome to AK! Let us know where you are from, and where you are getting this unit from. The unit came from Ebay.. Washburn, Maine

2500e is the Euro multi-voltage version, you can see the voltages listed on the label, and the round voltage selector on the back panel. Can't quite tell but is it already in a 120V use mode?

At the moment, everything is cosmetic staining, wouldn't be surprised if it reeked of nicotine and smoke. Some scratches and dings visible too. The heavy dust on the fan indicates lots of potential for dust in the cooling tunnel, but that's not unusual. When you have the cover off, that will tell the tale.

Did it do duty in a home, or in a restaurant or bar? A nice faceplate and knobs off cleaning will be in order. Time to get a bunch of DeOxit for the electronics controls, and gentle cleaning materials, there are lots of cleaning threads in the Marantz forum.

Congrats!
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I am in Austin, TX... Anyone else around thees parts?

I was told that the unit was purchased in Germany by a serviceman and was brought back to the states. The plug has a euro connector on it with a US adapter so I suspect that it's in 120V mode. I wonder if the e version uses the same transformer as all of the others?
I am not sure if it sat in a bar or garage on in a house... :smoke::smoke::smoke:
 
You will be superised how well those nasty tar stained faceplates clean up. Whatever you do be careful, the lettering can come off pretty easy. It can be done though. Can't wait to see pics of it cleaned up.
 
Jerryfan said:
You will be superised how well those nasty tar stained faceplates clean up. Whatever you do be careful, the lettering can come off pretty easy. It can be done though. Can't wait to see pics of it cleaned up.
Click to expand...

Yea.. I bet it looks way different when it's clean..

By the way, is that Jay in your avatar?
 
Differences?

Washing machine grade power cord not present in (e), number of AUX inputs, volume knobs are different size, Dolby socket deleted in (e) model, no voltage selector in U.S. model, FM de-emphasis different although I think there is a switch somewhere for that.
 
SoCal Sam said:
Differences?

Washing machine grade power cord not present in (e), number of AUX inputs, volume knobs are different size, Dolby socket deleted in (e) model, no voltage selector in U.S. model, FM de-emphasis different although I think there is a switch somewhere for that.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info:thmbsp:
 
Dirty? It's a superfund site inside...

The 2500 shows up from it's long journey today. The only damage was a couple of busted plastic feet, no big deal.

The real issue is the dirt. The auction describes the unit as being stored in an attic for a very long time and being very dirty. That's an understatement.

The dirt is not dry powdery stuff, it's stuck on. I can try and hit it with compressed air but I don't think it will do much. It looks like the unit needs to be disassembled and each board cleaned with windex or something. Is there is a way to clean it in place without completely tearing the unit down? Any suggestions?

The unit powers on and the scope works.... :banana:

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Try a paint brush with compressed air. I bet the amplifier tunnel is caked in dust. You are right to clean it thoroughly before you apply power.

Euro plug is OK, adapter is inexpensive.
 
Wow, a dream Marantz. How much did it cost? My Marantz 2130 tuner is likely the nearest thing I'll ever have to a 2500.
 
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Not that I'm recommending it, but this looks like one that I'd actually run in a dishwasher, as in a thread that advocated that somewhat controversially here a while ago.

You might have good luck with a residue free cleaner. A light vacuuming might be the first thing because you really want to suck up as much as you can first, then attack with brush and air, and low vacuum if you can do all together. I would definitely suggest a supply of painter face masks, and a very sturdy outdoor location with plenty of ventilation, light, and a prevailing wind away from you.

A long bristled set of paint brushes should be able to loosen without putting much force into the components. Then some type of residue-less electronic cleaner spray (probably like naptha, hexane, or alcohol based cleaner).

Just be sure not to soak the phenolic boards too much, all above and more are flammable so no smokes, no flames, plenty of ventilation. Test in spots to be sure no damage.

Then on with the deoxit baths.
 
Just to be safe, a DeOxit bath is not for the boards themselves, just the pots, switches and jack contacts. The latter can be cleaned nicely by using a pipe cleaner, folded directly over for RCA jacks and about a 1/4" for the headphone style jacks. For that apply the DeOxit spray to the pipe cleaner first.

If you're brave, apply some DeOxit to the tuner front end variable capacitor bearing points. Not a full on spray but barely squeezing on the nozzle with the "straw" right at the bearing. It's kind of a one handed operation, practice first!
 
mech986 said:
Not that I'm recommending it, but this looks like one that I'd actually run in a dishwasher, as in a thread that advocated that somewhat controversially here a while ago.

You might have good luck with a residue free cleaner. A light vacuuming might be the first thing because you really want to suck up as much as you can first, then attack with brush and air, and low vacuum if you can do all together. I would definitely suggest a supply of painter face masks, and a very sturdy outdoor location with plenty of ventilation, light, and a prevailing wind away from you.

A long bristled set of paint brushes should be able to loosen without putting much force into the components. Then some type of residue-less electronic cleaner spray (probably like naptha, hexane, or alcohol based cleaner).

Just be sure not to soak the phenolic boards too much, all above and more are flammable so no smokes, no flames, plenty of ventilation. Test in spots to be sure no damage.

Then on with the deoxit baths.
Click to expand...


I would pull the tube fan and transformer before attempting a dishwasher run, maybe even the tuner board.
 
The dishwasher is a no go...

I did a bit of testing with one of the easy to remove boards. First I put it in a bowl with a bit of dawn and warm water, cleaning it carefully with a soft tooth brush. That made it much better but not quite clean so I repeated the procedure with a bit of invisible glass cleaner. Now the top side of the board looks good. The back side of the board is loaded with old flux. I tried some flux remover that comes in a spray can, now the back of the board is a mess with white crap. I think it needs something a bit stronger to clear off all of the old flux. Anyone know how to get all of the old flux off?


In the mean time I deoxed the connector and blew the board off with compressed air.
 
MG Chemicals residue contact cleaner and Nu-Trol with lube oil are just as good as de-ox. You get twice the can for half the price. I sometimes use the residue free cleaner to flush boards.
 
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