petehall347
the brandy coffee man
should work .. just remember where the wires came from just in case.I agree, I am just unsure how to wire it, should I just pull the wires and splice them?
should work .. just remember where the wires came from just in case.I agree, I am just unsure how to wire it, should I just pull the wires and splice them?
I will give that a shot then, thank you for the advise.should work .. just remember where the wires came from just in case.
Take plenty of pictures at different angles if possible before putting it under the knife. It can come in handy later.I will give that a shot then, thank you for the advise.
That's a good Idea about the schematic, the Idea was to make it just stereo, no L+R, no reverse stereo etc.might want to make schema sheet before after and tuck in the box cover somewhere?
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so is the plan to just make the L+R stereo, too ?
Words to live by when working on older audio for sure.Take plenty of pictures at different angles if possible before putting it under the knife. It can come in handy later.
Before you get into it... does the owner completely understand the other sw positions won't work but the switch will rotate?the Idea was to make it just stereo, no L+R, no reverse stereo etc.
Yes, I made it very clear that it will basically be disconnected, it will be just for show. I also told them that we should just leave it as it works perfectly.Before you get into it... does the owner completely understand the other sw positions won't work but the switch will rotate?
I thought about doing this first before looking at the unit, unfortunately the stereo selector knob is mounted to the front board with the balance and faders all attached as well. so I just unsoldered the switch and wired the output to the input wires as suggested in this thread and it worked perfectly. and is easily reversable. though it did take some thought of wire pathing as the balance and tone faders are wired there as well so that they function.In the interest of maximum avoidance of present and future loss of value, if it were my Marantz (had a 3300 long ago), I would remove the 3/8" nut holding the control to the front panel, move the switch back away from the panel, and install a placebo switch in the existing hole. Then lash the original switch to something to prevent its flopping around. Or come up with a temporary bracket to hold it.
Reversing this would be easy as pie and it would be back to 100% unmolested original condition. I think that model is one best kept original or 100% returned to an unmolested state, as it will likely hold its value or have it increase in time.
As an aside, you could then "prove" that operating the switch had absolutely no effect on the preamp's sound. Just kidding.
Well, it was a thought. I know what you mean about not being able to deal with the control by itself. I have a Sansui 3300 receiver that could really use a new volume control (99 and 44/100% unobtainium) and a new balance pot. I have Alps pots that could electrically replace the originals. Problem is, neither can fit since they are the black cube shaped types, much larger . Also the original dual 250K audio taper volume pot has the loudness tap, these pots are just not available, and if one surfaces the price is ridiculous.I thought about doing this first before looking at the unit, unfortunately the stereo selector knob is mounted to the front board with the balance and faders all attached as well. so I just unsoldered the switch and wired the output to the input wires as suggested in this thread and it worked perfectly. and is easily reversable. though it did take some thought of wire pathing as the balance and tone faders are wired there as well so that they function.