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Marantz 4300 Filter Cap Question

start with checking each speaker output for dc voltage right after the relay clicks in .. the relay will click in below a certain voltage so if it is a dc problem you should catch it while its still dropping .
The left channel (only one working currently) had about 12mv before relay kicked in, slowly declined to about 4.5mv and relay clicked, shot up to 12mv and slowly dropped to 6mv and pretty much stayed there.

And before the relay
When I check JN01 (I only have the left channel still), it is all over the map for a few seconds, the settles into 20mv counts down rapidly to about 8mv, fluctuates there 8-12mv, then relay kicks in at 8mv after 32 seconds. After the relay kicks in JN01 slowly decreases and then fluctuates between 3.0 and 4.0mv and seems to be mostly about 3.3mv. After about 5 minute it is down to 2.3mv on JN01.

should have the right channel amp tomorrow. Thanks for all your help Rich
 
make sure correct value timing cap is installed and correct way round .. also check solder joints
If the timing cap is C807, it is in correctly and a 10uf 50v as per SM. I always replace value for value unless it is not available, then I increase the voltage rating till one matches. Thanks Rich
 
Just for grins, I pulled P800 again and checked all the solder connections and re-flowed the C807 cap, no change in the relay situation. What should I have for dc voltage before the relay and at the speaker outs? Thanks Rich
 
0v ideally but most times not achievable .. most likely a few mv . up to 30mv is good .
it would be an idea to monitor the relay driver transistor base to see how quick or slow it takes coming up to correct voltage ..
also the relay voltage might be coming up slow for some reason .
 
also the relay voltage might be coming up slow for some reason .

Pete, It seems everything is ok with the one functioning channel I have. The relay does kick in and I am able to adjust the amp to spec and the power supply voltage holds steady at 35v. Once I get the other P700 board and see if I have both channels working, I see if that makes a difference. It seems to function fine the way it is, just a little long till it clicks in. Will update tomorrow when I get the P700 Fedex. Thanks Rich
 
I wonder if the relay will kick in quicker when you get the missing amp board installed and the current draw on the power supply goes up. :dunno:
 
wonder if the relay will kick in quicker when you get the missing amp board installed and the current draw on the power supply goes up. :dunno:

Steven, I am hoping it makes a difference. The P700 has the outputs and heatsink, but the unit I have has the outputs and heatsink also. I am hoping to just need the PC board, and that it works. We'll find out tomorrow. Thanks Rich
 
This unit developed more problems after the right channel P700 was installed and it is way beyond my capabilities. Thank you everyone for all your help, I have sent this one in to be repaired by Previd
 
Also, just something I noticed, once the relay clicks in, if I turn it off and wait a few seconds and turn it back on, the delay is about 8 seconds. I do not have the second P-700 board yet, and will probably wait to see if I get both channels before I go further.

When the timing cap is warmed up, having had voltage and current passed through it, it retains its capacitance and usual characteristics a bit easier on a fast turnaround. When the amp has sat off for awhile, the cap will discharge completely, and basically return back to its usual older, used up state.

If the timing cap is C807, it is in correctly and a 10uf 50v as per SM. I always replace value for value unless it is not available, then I increase the voltage rating till one matches. Thanks Rich

Just for grins, I pulled P800 again and checked all the solder connections and re-flowed the C807 cap, no change in the relay situation. What should I have for dc voltage before the relay and at the speaker outs? Thanks Rich

The Cap forms a "timing circuit" that is, the transistor that turns current and voltage flow to the capacitor once a threshold DC offset is met (below that threshold), then the capacitor charges up, and when it reaches a certain voltage, it fires another transistor to activate the relay coil, which then pulls the contacts together, allowing the amp signal to continue flowing to the speaker terminals.

With an old or failing timing capacitor, it either has changed capacitance, or developed leakage current which partly discharges while its trying to charge, slowing down the ability of the cap to fully charge. Also, many times ESR (equivalent series resistance) of the cap increases with age, which also reduces the current flow into the cap, thus taking longer to fill (charge) the cap, both of these slow down the timing circuit. Usually the amp circuit can stabilize DC in a few seconds, and then the timing (DC protection) circuit starts up and should everything be ok, allow the relay to fire in a short time.
 
Steven, I am hoping it makes a difference. The P700 has the outputs and heatsink, but the unit I have has the outputs and heatsink also. I am hoping to just need the PC board, and that it works. We'll find out tomorrow. Thanks Rich

This unit developed more problems after the right channel P700 was installed and it is way beyond my capabilities. Thank you everyone for all your help, I have sent this one in to be repaired by Previd

Ooooh, sorry to hear that. One thing I think we all forgot was to suggest that you check the missing amp board channel's output transistors to see if they were ok or shorted. If there had been a problem with the amp board, then the output transistor certainly would have been at risk, and any shorted transistors would possibly put the new board at risk too. Hope your repair tech can address the issue and give you (and us) a full report on what was going on. Good Luck!
 
BTW, regarding the 2/4 switch in the back, I seem to recall an admonition to clean only with the power off, and only move the switch with the power off.
 
One thing I think we all forgot was to suggest that you check the missing amp board channel's output transistors to see if they were ok or shorted. If there had been a problem with the amp board, then the output transistor certainly would have been at risk,

Thanks, followed the correct procedure for the 2/4 switch and did replace the outputs on the 'new' channel. Had both channels when I first powered it up on the DBT, then no relay click. Thanks for all you guys help, it is out of my hands now, I'll keep my fingers crossed. Rich
 
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