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Marantz 6370Q - tonearm

Bluefisheye

Bluefisheye

New Member
Hi everyone,
I found this Marantz TT but it hasn't worked since several years. After the first trial, it works but there is some problem.
Firstly, the power supply needs a recapping.
Secondly, the cueing control doesn't work. As it is written in the service manual, I changed the rubber sleeve by a new one, for 094G and 048G parts. The grip is good and the contact is OK between the 2 parts. I added a few drops of castor oil as recommended by Marantz in the tonearm.
But when I push the button UP of the cueing, the piston goes up and goes down few seconds after. The tonearm doesn't stay up.
And the reject button doesn't work also, nothing happens when I push the button.
At the end of the vinyl, the tonearm stay on it and doesn't come back on its restarm.
Someone has an idea or an advise?
Thirdly, I cleaned the tonearm and I don't know why, I decided to remove the anti-skating knob for cleaning. And now, it's impossible to screw it at the right place. The button turns continuously without any change. I think, I have to dismounting completely the tonearm in order to put the button back in place correctly.
I never did it before, someone has a tutorial or something like this to help me or any advise?
Thanks a lot for your help and Merry Christmas ⛄
 

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Are you pushing the reject button when in manual mode, or are you pushing it when the auto button is pushed in? It only works if in auto mode. There are two large cams, both of which need the rubber sleeve added for things to work well. The tonearm only has auto return when the auto function button is pressed in also.
 
Thanks for your advise I push the reject button on the both mode. Sometimes the tonearm comes back to his rest. Honestly, I think the issue comes from the idler rubber. I hear the engine's sound when I push the buttons and sometimes the cueing or the reject work randomly. I have to change the 2 rubber by new ones. I did not find those items on the Net. Have you got an idea where I could find a specialized sellor?
Thx
 
Bluefisheye said:
Thanks for your advise I push the reject button on the both mode. Sometimes the tonearm comes back to his rest. Honestly, I think the issue comes from the idler rubber. I hear the engine's sound when I push the buttons and sometimes the cueing or the reject work randomly. I have to change the 2 rubber by new ones. I did not find those items on the Net. Have you got an idea where I could find a specialized sellor?
Thx
Click to expand...
What needs to be done is to add a rubber sleeve over the two large cams that don't have anything but the fine teeth on them. You have to cut a narrow sleeve from an innertube and slip one on each cam. There are a couple of service bulletins about this on vinylengine.com. Sign up (it's free) and you can download them.
 
Hi! i know its an ld post but i had a similar broblem with mine 6370Q and20220220_200303.jpg 20220220_201240.jpg i adressed the problem to the two microswitches around the plastic wheel, it was bad connections in both of them, took them appart and cleaned it with a 1000 paper and some electric cleaner, after that it worked perfect!
 
Similar problems with my 6370q. The first thing I did was to super glue the rubber tire on the little wheel that drives the two large cams that don't have anything but the fine teeth on them. That stopped the slipping of the rubber tire, but still did not drive the cams. I tried putting rubber bands on the cams, but they just kept falling off. Then I tried putting a single layer of friction tape on the cams and that worked.

Now I know the motor and mechanical parts work, but only when the "down" button is pushed. Pushing the "up" button does nothing, and the "reject" button also does nothing. I'll clean the micro-switches next. Hope that helps, but I'm beginning to suspect the ICs are the problem.

It is a very nice turntable and worth using as a manual, but I sure would like having the auto stop feature.

Anyone solve this issue?
 
Defintiely clean the micro switches on the tonearm drive (not the front panel switches, although they need it too). Figure out some way to submerge them in some DeOxit for a little while. That improved it on the one I worked on.
 
Jeez, Ron, you might have mentioned the little copper leaf contact would fall out when I opened up the micro switch. lol. I did manage to figure out the correct orientation and reassemble. It was clean as a whistle, so I don't think I'm gonna open the other two, just squirting the Deoxit in those. Already cleaned the front panel switches, mccalljd. Thanks for the suggest, though.
 
sa-9800 said:
Jeez, Ron, you might have mentioned the little copper leaf contact would fall out when I opened up the micro switch. lol. I did manage to figure out the correct orientation and reassemble. It was clean as a whistle, so I don't think I'm gonna open the other two, just squirting the Deoxit in those. Already cleaned the front panel switches, mccalljd. Thanks for the suggest, though.
Click to expand...
I never considered opening the switches up. I just pulled them loose and filled a small container with the DeOxit and let them soak a few minutes before re-installing them.
 
Well, apparently Deoxit will dissolve the stickiness of friction tape. I guess I'll be re-applying fresh tape.
 
Haha sorry about that :) well i couldent see any on mine too but when i checked with the multimeter i got pretty high ohm readings on the microswitch, i dont think you can just see if it is bad, check them with a multimeter that is a quick verification if it is ok
 
Well, phooey. The switch I opened is not working. Only thing to do is try again, I guess. Nothing to lose at this point.
 
Making progress! The switch arrived so got back to it today. Installed the switch, put friction tape on the cams, oriented the cams correctly, powered up and only the up cueing button worked. Then luck was on my side and I noticed the yellow wire on the down microswitch had come loose. Fixed that and cueing is now functioning in manual mode, up and down!

Auto mode is another story. It works as it should until hitting the reject button or allowing the tonearm to reach the run out grooves. The tonearm lifts but instead of returning to the rest it just sort of twitches. I know the cueing motor is supposed to reverse direction to move the arm back, but it changes direction about every half second and something is making a clicking noise with each change. I can move the arm back to the rest by hand where it will lower itself onto the rest and turn off the power.

Anyone know what tells the cueing motor what direction to run? A sensor, a cam that I can't see, an IC chip? I can't quit now!
 
sa-9800 said:
Making progress! The switch arrived so got back to it today. Installed the switch, put friction tape on the cams, oriented the cams correctly, powered up and only the up cueing button worked. Then luck was on my side and I noticed the yellow wire on the down microswitch had come loose. Fixed that and cueing is now functioning in manual mode, up and down!

Auto mode is another story. It works as it should until hitting the reject button or allowing the tonearm to reach the run out grooves. The tonearm lifts but instead of returning to the rest it just sort of twitches. I know the cueing motor is supposed to reverse direction to move the arm back, but it changes direction about every half second and something is making a clicking noise with each change. I can move the arm back to the rest by hand where it will lower itself onto the rest and turn off the power.

Anyone know what tells the cueing motor what direction to run? A sensor, a cam that I can't see, an IC chip? I can't quit now!
Click to expand...
If there is any play in the distance the switches are from the cam, push them as far towards the cam as they can go. I don't know if that will help, but on another brand of turntable I had to move the micro switches just a fraction to the cam to make sure they were being closed properly in order for the tonearm motor to work.
 
As suggested I checked the microswitches and they seem to be positioned correctly, clicking on and off in the right place on the cams. Maybe I should just be satisfied that I got the cueing to work properly in manual mode.
 
sa-9800 said:
As suggested I checked the microswitches and they seem to be positioned correctly, clicking on and off in the right place on the cams. Maybe I should just be satisfied that I got the cueing to work properly in manual mode.
Click to expand...
Great to hear you fixed the microswitch, have you meassured all the microswitches with the multimeter ? Both n/o and n/c side?? Mine behaved similar with the return function but i dont remember that the motor changed .... mine "slipped" on the "tooth-wheel" when going backwords making the tonearm never go back to resting point, cleaned the plastic whells with some IPA (it was a bit greasy) an turned the rubber insideout and then all worked pretty well and still does :)
 
The microswitches are all working and I cleaned everything with isopropanol. Not going to waste any India Pale Ale on a turntable, I use that to solve my other problems. :beerchug: I can see the cams, wheels, idlers, etc all moving in both directions when the motor direction changes back and forth so I don't think slipping is the problem. Worth double checking though, so thanks for the suggestion.
 
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