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MC2105 Modern Speaker Switch Replacement - Found

JamesinIT

New Member
I like many have had the misfortune of a broken MC2105 speaker on off switch, Mcintosh part number 146-103. The original, Clarostat 20 had long given up.

Use the following info at your own risk.

Knowing this was just a simple DPST throw, I began looking around for a suitable replacement. In looking at the spec sheet for this particular rotary switch, I found that mouser had one that worked, but it was too long. But, researching the order codes, I found that the unicorn exists, albeit, it requires a light filing down of the shaft in order to fit the knob; otherwise perfect.

The Brand is C&K, part number is A21405RNZQ

You'll notice the original clarostat is rated 3A @ 125VAC, while this outwardly is 2.5A @ 125VAC. Looking at the spec sheet you'll notice it can carry 5A. Assuming that an MC2105 puts out 29v @ 8 ohms, thats roughly 3.6a @ 29v or 5.125a @ 20.5 (4 ohm). Considering that unless you pegging your amp out, you'd likely not hit those levels anywhere near continuously. After installing, I fired up the amp and ran it hard for about an hour, and according to the laser temp tool, it was 1F above ambient. Not enough for me to be worried.

At any rate, I hope this helps others. Mouser is sold out of this right now, but does have a similar part, with a longer shaft that you'd have to cut down. It also has PCB type terminals on the back side, but is workable. That one is part number A21415RNCQ.

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/60/ckci_s_a0001220822_1-2263264.pdf

upload_2021-9-9_20-4-12.png

Jumpered original vs new:

upload_2021-9-9_20-13-46.png

Soldered in place: gray wires from transformer go to pin 4 and pin 10. Purple/brown to A, and Purple+White Stripe/Brown go to Pin C. I had to heat shrink my cables due to the previous original wires being too short after being jumpered previously.
upload_2021-9-9_20-15-2.png

Installed. Note that the locating pin doesn't line up quite right to make it work with the layout of the silk screen so you'll need to orientate it accordingly for the best alignment. Notice where I filed the flat portion of the switch pole down to fit the knob. Took about 10 minutes with a file to get it right.
upload_2021-9-9_20-17-12.png

Side by side - the white line gives you an idea of why you need to file it down:
upload_2021-9-9_20-23-38.png

upload_2021-9-9_20-18-42.png

upload_2021-9-9_20-19-54.png
 
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The current ratings in the specs are for making or breaking the circuit. For continuous current through a closed switch, the rating will be much higher. If speakers are switched only when there is low or no signal, there will be no problem.
 
McIntosh was selling one similar to this last year or the year before for the 2205. Last month when I turned off the speakers it kept rotating..
 
Yeah the 2205 is about twice the power but it should only be controlling the relay, whereas the the 2105 is handling the power straight out of the transformers. I’ve seen the reproduction power switches for the C26 act like that too, and that is what happens when the switch gets too hot. Once it cools off it starts working again. When I have time I’m going to leave it on and check it for exactly that same issue. I’m hoping this gives folks options other than jumpering which sucks
 
I broke down and bought the power switch off fleabay it lasted 2 on/offs .. sent it back for a refund..
I epoxied the broken switch with plastic epoxy, see how long it lasts..
 
I replaced my power and speaker switches with the Lorlin RMS1100--although it looks like Mouser is out of stock now. I haven't tried to see if they get hot in use.

Had to trim and flat the shaft--but easy with a Dremel and a tweak to the spring inside the knob to get it just right.
 
Not the thread I want to read after getting a 2105...

I've actually been using this switch a bit since I got it a couple weeks ago. I clean the stylus every few records and turn the speakers off when cleaning to save me from having to hear the scraping sound. And, its easier than turing the preamp down. I also like to turn the speakers off if I am going to take a short break from listening and don't want to shut everything down. Hopefully, it keeps working (knock on wood).
 
I replaced my power and speaker switches with the Lorlin RMS1100--although it looks like Mouser is out of stock now. I haven't tried to see if they get hot in use.

Had to trim and flat the shaft--but easy with a Dremel and a tweak to the spring inside the knob to get it just right.
I had to file this one down as well. But it gets the job done.
 
Hey folks, I have an MC2105 with a bad speaker selector switch. Any idea if this switch would work as a replacement? It's from an HH Scott tuner and was used as the stereo/mono switch.

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Hey folks, I have an MC2105 with a bad speaker selector switch. Any idea if this switch would work as a replacement? It's from an HH Scott tuner and was used as the stereo/mono switch. . .

That Scott switch is likely not designed to handle the current required for the Mc speaker switch and so might fail in use.

Per the above posts, that MC2105 speaker switch is rated at 3 Amps. It is very unlikely that Scott would use a stereo/mono switch rated for 3 Amps. The stereo/mono switch deals with much lower power levels and using a 3 Amp switch would be over kill and add unnecessary cost. (If you can confirm that the current rating of the Scott switch happens to be 3 or more Amps, it might work.)
 
That’s fair. Thanks for responding. I have another option I’m working on but I’ll have to convert a round shaft to a D shaft.
 
Has anyone taken a failed one apart to see what actually breaks? Mine is seldom used (I use an SCR2), but a spare just in case might be worth it if it is impossible to fix internally.
 
I like many have had the misfortune of a broken MC2105 speaker on off switch, Mcintosh part number 146-103. The original, Clarostat 20 had long given up.

Use the following info at your own risk.

Knowing this was just a simple DPST throw, I began looking around for a suitable replacement. In looking at the spec sheet for this particular rotary switch, I found that mouser had one that worked, but it was too long. But, researching the order codes, I found that the unicorn exists, albeit, it requires a light filing down of the shaft in order to fit the knob; otherwise perfect.

The Brand is C&K, part number is A21405RNZQ

You'll notice the original clarostat is rated 3A @ 125VAC, while this outwardly is 2.5A @ 125VAC. Looking at the spec sheet you'll notice it can carry 5A. Assuming that an MC2105 puts out 29v @ 8 ohms, thats roughly 3.6a @ 29v or 5.125a @ 20.5 (4 ohm). Considering that unless you pegging your amp out, you'd likely not hit those levels anywhere near continuously. After installing, I fired up the amp and ran it hard for about an hour, and according to the laser temp tool, it was 1F above ambient. Not enough for me to be worried.

At any rate, I hope this helps others. Mouser is sold out of this right now, but does have a similar part, with a longer shaft that you'd have to cut down. It also has PCB type terminals on the back side, but is workable. That one is part number A21415RNCQ.

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/60/ckci_s_a0001220822_1-2263264.pdf

View attachment 2338115

Jumpered original vs new:

View attachment 2338127

Soldered in place: gray wires from transformer go to pin 4 and pin 10. Purple/brown to A, and Purple+White Stripe/Brown go to Pin C. I had to heat shrink my cables due to the previous original wires being too short after being jumpered previously.
View attachment 2338129

Installed. Note that the locating pin doesn't line up quite right to make it work with the layout of the silk screen so you'll need to orientate it accordingly for the best alignment. Notice where I filed the flat portion of the switch pole down to fit the knob. Took about 10 minutes with a file to get it right.
View attachment 2338134

Side by side - the white line gives you an idea of why you need to file it down:
View attachment 2338138

View attachment 2338135

View attachment 2338136
Good deal! Endless fight against the insanity on parts price
 
I just got mine in from Mouser; thank you for the part number. My right channel keeps dropping to a low volume and it’s the Speaker switch, even though I scarcely ever used it.
 
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