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McIntosh - Hints and Kinks

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Mc2200

dewickt said:
Since I get to work on McIntosh equipment most every day I think a Helpfull Hints topic can benafit all of us in the McIntosh fourum. Feel free to post your hint or kink, each one of us may have a unique solution for a problem they have run into and others may need a solution for.
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Hello , I am new here . I have a specific problem with my c2200 mcintosh preamp: When unit is at remote and activated ...warmup appears and after a few moment when its ready ....bang on the right speaker looks like a dc voltage. Anyone can help. I have brought the preamp to repaired at a mcintosh dealer...apperrently there is no problem????? paid 160$ for nothing
Thanks for your time Bernard
 
jblguy1 said:
I'm a newbee, this is my first post. my eq on my c33 isn't working. I've tried all modes. it's like flat all the time no matter how much i turn them. any suggestions? Thanks.
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pops09 said:
Hello , I am new here . I have a specific problem with my c2200 mcintosh preamp: When unit is at remote and activated ...warmup appears and after a few moment when its ready ....bang on the right speaker looks like a dc voltage. Anyone can help. I have brought the preamp to repaired at a mcintosh dealer...apperrently there is no problem????? paid 160$ for nothing
Thanks for your time Bernard
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These posts would get better responses if they were in the "regular" part of the forum. I think "jbl" already posted his there.

Murray
 
Check the cables and make sure they are fully plugged in, EQ is only in the listen out path and is switched in by the EQ push button, check to verify the switch is working correctly and clean. Very unusual for the EQ to not work in both channels.
 
Hi,
I recently went through a similar experience, It took out 5V, then 15V and volume control module, Tech at HI-FI Sound in Mpls, McIntosh Auth, called factory and they were puzzled as to how all three could blow, main symptom was DC noise on both channels at start up. I was playing around with new tubes, but they said this was most likely not a factor, unless the power had not drained before I removed tubes? Fixed as good new now, $190.00 or so
John Prest
 
MC240 tubes, do not try a substitute for the 12BH7, it is a tall tube designed to take more power than the smaller AX and AU, the wrong tube in this location will possibly take out the 12K @ 2W resistors.
The 12AU7 must always be a 12AU7 for the phase inverter to work properly, the first stage 12AX7 should alway be a AX because it is the stage that gets the feedback and sets the overall gain of the amplifier.
Substituting all but exact matches can cause problems, don't try it, at the least you will get degraded performance, or a few burned resistors, as a worst case a burned out transformer that will cost over $500 to be rewound.
 
Request for clairification about lights

dewickt said:
This series of amplifiers have 4 lamps on the panel, 2 normal (#7382) and 2 power guard (#7373), on power up the power guard lamps blink on for about a second and then the normal lamps come on. If they never come on (all 4) and you know that they are good, check the power supply board behind the front panel. This board has 2 capacitors 2200uF at 16V (C307 and C308) in a voltage doubler to drive the lamps - these capacitors tend to short - thus no lamps. While you are at it check the 2 diodes between them, if the amp has been used for an extended time with a shorted cap the diodes will be bad, 1N4004 is a good replacement.
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Hi Terry,

I just got a MC2200 and none of the lights light on power up, all four test good and the red limit lights still function. Do you still suspect the 2200uF caps and diode? Also I only see one diode, is this typical of the MC2200?
 
chef free said:
Hi Terry,

I just got a MC2200 and none of the lights light on power up, all four test good and the red limit lights still function. Do you still suspect the 2200uF caps and diode? Also I only see one diode, is this typical of the MC2200?
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These kind of posts belong in the main section of the McIntosh forum. This is Terry's "Hints and Kinks" thread.

Murray
 
It's OK, we will help the next person who has a 2200 with no lights, yes it has D302 and D303 between the 2 big capacitors, the one you see is probably D301 the rectifier for the speaker relay.
 
Thanks Terry I found them. This looks like a repair I could handle. I'll let you know. (BTW I posted in this forum because it is a direct reference to a previous posting in this forum.)
 
chef free said:
Thanks Terry I found them. This looks like a repair I could handle. I'll let you know. (BTW I posted in this forum because it is a direct reference to a previous posting in this forum.)
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It's a common question regarding the 2200 and 2205 and has been dealt with many times in the general part of the McIntosh forum.

This is a specific thread regarding tips from Terry. General repair questions go in the main McIntosh forum where you'll get more exposure and other members can easily find the questions and answers.

Murray
 
MC2105 - Direct/Normal Switch

Common question, normal adds a capacitor in series with the input in case the source preamp has a DC component in its feed to the 2105. The DC offset was common in some older design preamps and on turn on with some tube preamps, I have seen 100V or more come out of a preamp on turn on, only for a short time but possibly fatal to some amplifiers, especially DC coupled ones.
The direct takes the capacitor out of circuit and feeds the signal directly to the gain control, one less part in the signal path, and safe to use with 95% of the sources feeding the amplifier, most all solid state preamps are OK in the direct position.
The easy way to check is set up your system for normal use, turn on the amplifier first with the switch in the direct position, then turn on the preamp. If you get a hard thump in you speakers when you turned on the pramp start over, put the switch in the normal position and turn on the preamp, if you get no thump this time you have solved the problem by adding the capacitor in series with the input.
 
MC2105, how to get the cages off?

How do you get the cages off on this amp? I have tried every obvious combination of screws and it appears to be built from the inside out?
 
You have to take the bottom off. Hex head screws are way out on the edge of the chassis and may be under a wire bundle. Just poke around in there some and you'll find them.

Murray
 
Each end of the cage has one screw, center line of the cage 1/4" in from the end. Pull the bottom and go for it.
 
No. Bottom should come right off. Don't forget the screws on the side; three or four of them including the ones that pass through the chrome edge of the chassis.

Murray
 
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