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McIntosh - Hints and Kinks

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Is your amp dusty in the least? With tube gear I've found that a very light coating of dust promotes the build-up of static electricity and when turning off the amp it seems to discharge the static electricity and give the symptoms you describe. Get an anti-static dust-cloth of some and give the amp and tube a wipe. I always go over the tubes with a damp (Windex) papertowel when finished to insure nothing is left on them that could create a hot-spot. YMMV.
 
So you only hear this at shutdown? If so, it could be just because the tubes are transitioning through an improper bias region as the power fades out. I've never noticed my MC240 doing anything like that but in my experience, the noise you describe is always a flaky tube. You could well have 2 tubes that way as I have seen this many times. Get a new set of 12AX7s and the problem should go away.
 
MCD1000 - drawer doesn't open

After having received great help from colleagues here on Audiokarma, I wanted to share a painful experience I just made.

A couple of days ago, I wanted to change a CD. The drawer with the CD closed but nothing happened. Thus I started to push buttons not very systematically. Result: the CD got completely confused. Nothing worked, only the on/off button. I opened the box, tried to get rid of the CD (and of course went to far). Long story short: only a professional could solve the problem but I did cause some serious damage.

Now the player is working smoothly as ever. And here is the trick if the MCD1000 simply doesn't react: switch the MCD off. Then while pushing the open button, switch on the MCD. This is the only way, that the drawer gives back the CD.

And in general, give the MCD time to read the CD. Apparently, MCD1000 needs quite some time to read it and gets confused, when you givem him other instructions e.g. play too early.

I hope that is of any value.

Thanks
B
 
MA-6100 volume/power switch fix?

I'm sure this has been asked on here before, but I can't find the answer. What's the fix (if any) for a volume/power switch on the MA-6100? I know Mac doesn't make the integrated volume and power switch anymore. My volume is fine, but the power is giving me trouble; doesn't want to turn on at times, turns off by itself at other times.

Thanks,
Aubrey
 
I'd bypass it and use an external power strip for powering up the gear. Bypassing it means that you need to solder a short wire across the AC terminals on the switch itself inside the unit.

Perhaps Terry D or others have an alternative to this.

Cheers,

David
 
You may want to check with Mcintosh on this. They've recently come up with a replacement part for the on/off switch on the MC2105 amp. Perhaps they've done the same for the integrated volume/on/off switch.
 
Call parts at 800-538-6578, they had one last time I bought, was not a circuit board mount, you will have to add jumper wires to the pot terminals to the board, worked fine...
 
Controlling Multiple McIntosh Equipments using One Remote

Hey there, sorry for the noob question here, but I can't seem to figure out how to control the MVP871 using the remote supplied with the C2300. I want to be able to use just the C2300 remote, but I can't use it to control the MVP871 (such as play, stop, etc.). The manual doesn't say anything about configuring the remote. Can someone enlighten me, please...
 
dewickt said:
Call parts at 800-538-6578, they had one last time I bought, was not a circuit board mount, you will have to add jumper wires to the pot terminals to the board, worked fine...
Click to expand...

Thanks, will do. I may just end up sending it down your way. I think it needs to be gone through anyway, i've got a hiss in the right channel.
 
T-3G said:
Hey there, sorry for the noob question here, but I can't seem to figure out how to control the MVP871 using the remote supplied with the C2300. I want to be able to use just the C2300 remote, but I can't use it to control the MVP871 (such as play, stop, etc.). The manual doesn't say anything about configuring the remote. Can someone enlighten me, please...
Click to expand...
Did you hook up the data cable from the C2300 to the MVP871? This is the cable with 1/4" ends.
 
Victor said:
Did you hook up the data cable from the C2300 to the MVP871? This is the cable with 1/4" ends.
Click to expand...

Really? Is that the cause? Never thought I'd need the data cable to be able to do this. I'll get it today. Thanks for the tip, much appreciated.
 
The cable lets the C2300 remote issue commands via the C2300 sensor and command processor to your player; the remote can't talk to the MVP871 directly.
 
mc 162 meter lights

how difficult is it to replace meter bulbs in the mc 162?
i seem to have a couple out, the meters are lit unevenly
 
oldmac said:
how difficult is it to replace meter bulbs in the mc 162?
i seem to have a couple out, the meters are lit unevenly
Click to expand...
The MC162 meter bulbs are soldered in. If you are good at soldering it's very simple to change the bulbs.

The 3 bulbs for each meter are on a small circuit board at the back of the meter. This circuit board is simple to unplug and remove. Once you get the board out and on the bench it's a simple matter of soldering in new bulbs.

If you don't want do the soldering you could try calling McIntosh and see if they will sell you 2 meter "bulb circuit boards" with the bulbs already installed in them. Then you can just swap out the boards for new ones.
 
oldmac said:
how difficult is it to replace meter bulbs in the mc 162?
i seem to have a couple out, the meters are lit unevenly
Click to expand...
AK member dgwojo will sell you some long-life bulbs so you will only need to do this once. Change them all and be good for 50K hours, or so.
 
If you replace one replace them all, just handling the board will kill the others, they get real frail with age and use.
 
Installing THX board in C39 or MX130

I want to move a THX board from a C39 I plan to sell to an MX130 I just acquired. Is the installation simply a matter of removing the "dummy" board and reattaching the ribbon cables to the THX board or is there also some PROM or logic chip that also has to be swapped? Besides the light on the front panel is there any non-audio way to verify that the installation was successful?

Thanks,
John Lovda
 
Chassis Corrosion

Recently had the opportunity to pick up an MC2125 that has significant corrosion coming through the chrome on the chassis. Does anyone know if McIntosh or some other after-market supplier is offering new chassis for the older, chromed-chassis amps? I would not mind taking this apart and having rechromed, but then all the lettering would be gone. Any source for lettering that anyone knows of? Same question about the aluminum end pieces on on the faceplate. Any source out there tha anyone knows of?
Thanks.
 
No sources that I know of, do a search in the forum, a year or so ago one of the members did a re-chrome and rebuild right down to new rivets.
 
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