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Minimus 7 Loudspeakers - Measurements

OK, well, my little TA2020 can make my franken-L520 sound nice but not loud.

It made the pz2.1 mini7's sound not so nice, and not loud.

I hope your TA2024 works out.

The thing about switching amps is that they handle lower impedance loads better. The distortion vs. power curves are illustrative.

Here's the TA2024 curves:

ta2024-thdpower.jpg


Those elbows you see are why i have no interest at all in class-D parts for which i can't find a thd+n vs. power curve.
 
yeah, it's possible you'll be just fine at low levels.

I just know that my ta2020 - S.M.S.L. SA-36A fwiw, really didn't work out with the pz2.1 mini7. but somehow it drives my 8ohm pioneer fullrangers just fine.
 
I'm excited to see the final product too.

And if the amp doesn't work out there are plenty of beefier class-D modules that might fit in the same enclosure.
 
Stuffing my 7s

Mine have about a 1" layer of fiberglass toward the back of the enclosure. I would make this twice as thick, say 2" and I would completely fill directly in back of the tweeter but not the woofer. This will maximize what little enclosure volume there is and attenuate any cavity resonances.
Keeping the material away from the woofer will avoid lowering the system Qtc and loosing more bass.

Thanks Pete
I was surprised there is almost nothing here about the stuffing. I "thought" the little 1" thick piece of FG seemed like too little so I added an equal size piece of poly-fil, but then the speakers sounded over-damped. Will go with your suggestion of basically doubling the FG but shoving it all behind the tweeter. I didn't know it was OK to leave the area behind the woofer empty.
Here is a shot of my Zilch mod in a 7w. On the first one I put all the components in place with 2-sided foam tape, THEN soldered. PITA! :grumpy: For the second I soldered almost everything outside the box. Much easier.
The terminal cup is a little large (PE Part #:260-312 3-1/8" square) but that's what I had on hand. Used a 5uF film cap for the 4.7 (again, what was on hand). Should have realized the stock RS inductor was .4mH--could have saved ~9 bux. Oh well. A fun project. Now just have to fine tune that stuffing.
Kent
 

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I really wonder just how much realestate all those xover components are taking up inside that already small area and if it does in fact sacriefice some low end? Anybody game for that answer?
DC
 
I really wonder just how much realestate all those xover components are taking up inside that already small area and if it does in fact sacriefice some low end? Anybody game for that answer?
DC

Zilch did take measurements of the speaker with the x-over inside and outside of the cabinet, fwiw. I have no idea what page they are on, but the graphs are in this thread.

made a tiny difference iirc.
 
Thanks Pete
I was surprised there is almost nothing here about the stuffing. I "thought" the little 1" thick piece of FG seemed like too little so I added an equal size piece of poly-fil, but then the speakers sounded over-damped. Will go with your suggestion of basically doubling the FG but shoving it all behind the tweeter. I didn't know it was OK to leave the area behind the woofer empty.
Here is a shot of my Zilch mod in a 7w. On the first one I put all the components in place with 2-sided foam tape, THEN soldered. PITA! :grumpy: For the second I soldered almost everything outside the box. Much easier.
The terminal cup is a little large (PE Part #:260-312 3-1/8" square) but that's what I had on hand. Used a 5uF film cap for the 4.7 (again, what was on hand). Should have realized the stock RS inductor was .4mH--could have saved ~9 bux. Oh well. A fun project. Now just have to fine tune that stuffing.
Kent

I didn't add any more because all those new parts inside made it hard enough to get the original back in...

You're right soldering inside that cab is a pain! I did everything I could outside the cab on the 77s but still had to solder a couple things in the cab.:no:
 
Zilch definitely-made one hell of an impression around this place (especially here in the 'Speakers' section). I saw another old thread of his had popped up yesterday.
 
I've never seen a freq. rsp. chart on the minimus 7's. I own 2 pair I bought new in 79 and 85. One pair came with the STA-7 reciever designed to mate with them in apperance and sound. It has an EQ circut that according to the the manual boost's bass at 100 hz 6.5 db. Its know wonder the little devils sound so darn good in a small room with the matching reciever.
 
Hi all,

I'm from Italy and ... yes, I have a pair of silver Realistic Minimus 7 in very good conditions!!!
I use them with a Fedora 20 (Italian T class amplifier - TA2024) and I'm very impressed and satisfied by this combination. I'm reading this thread with great interest. I ordered the e-bay kit mod before finding this thread :sigh: It should arrive in early January.
I'll post some pics when I'll work on them for that mod.

Merry Chritsmas to you all.
Egidio
 
Ported cabinet for Minimus drivers

Moving to a vented system greatly increases the power handling around Fb, but below Fc you basically have only the suspension stiffness to limit the excursion, the port acts as a leak. I generally prefer vented systems but especially when they are large and low tuned say 20- 35 Hz.

I'd say try it, it is the only way to learn, but perhaps build a quick and dirty cabinet to try out different ideas. Also, don't be afraid to throw out the book and tune lower. You might try a cabinet twice as large as you plan tuned to 45 Hz. Low tuned vented systems tend to have an early roll off shape closer to closed box systems but with much more power handling around Fb because the port does the work and the cone displacement theoretically goes to a minimum. A double woofer MTM or MMT version in a 10 liter cabinet might be very interesting.

You might have more satisfying results experimenting with a system with an 8" or larger driver since it will generally have much more volume displacement.

I did this: 5.0 liter (edited/corrected) cabinet with 25mm dia port, 75mm long. I used the original minimus 7 drivers and the PZ-2.1 crossover. Bass extension was better than the original minimus 7 and pretty clean, but the mid/upper-bass suffered and became very thin. I now stuff the port for most music listening.
 
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While I added a few M7s to my Ebay favorites to give this crossover design a try, I also stopped by Goodwill yesterday... score!
You, wife, stay here and guard my find until I arrive with the shopping cart! :banana:
$3.99 ea / $4.99 ea with mounting bracket.
3x 40-2030C pairs
1x 40-2030B pair - these have a different tweeter with metal plate (SD-50)
Has anyone modified a pair of M7s with these tweeters yet?

P1294200_resize.JPG
 
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