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Modifying my SAE P102 so it has remote control capability

genlabs

New Member
It has been a while since I shared one of my projects on here.
This is the last thing I completed.
It revolves around the SAE P102. It is probably one of the least loved of the vintage SAE pieces.
Not because of its sound signature. Was there better sounding? Of course there was but this device was trying to meet a price/performance point using some cutting edge 80's technology. I think it sounded great! It tried to bring a high end look and feel to modestly priced HiFi systems. It was just too ahead of its time when it was introduced in the early 80's. The futuristic lines and purely digital controls turned many consumers, who favored knob spinning, off.

So fast forward to today. I have a collection of this gear and I still think it sounds great, especially if it has been maintained. One thing the 02 series never offered was Remote Control! :(. The D102 CD player, which was based on a highly praised Magnavox chassis, was the exception, which came with a simple remote. I don't know if eliminating remote control was a cost cutting measure. I can see how the CPU and IC's driving the user interface and logic would have been an expensive commodity in the 80's, driving up the overall cost of the device. It seems silly that a futuristic design would opt to leave out such an important feature. This is a record of my journey to change that.

I was on a mission to add remote control capability to my beloved P102. I was not looking to control all the functions. I just really need Power, Mute, Vol +/-, Bass +/- & Treble +/-. I use the pre-amp exclusively with a Schiit DAC so I don't change inputs often. The following is what I came up with and it has been installed inside the P102 enclosure. Inside is a Arduino Nano, a 8 channel relay board and a small buck-boost regulator. The relay board emulates button presses. I will jump wires to each button on the P102. If I wanted to control more buttons I could just swap in a 16 channel relay board.

NOW HOLD ON!!...before people start going bonkers and begin flaming this thread because there are "easier" ways to do this let me just say this: a) these vintage SAE components used a lot of trickery to save money and limit integrated circuit complexity. For example each button is not merely grounded to activate a function. Each button works in a XY matrix AND each button also shares a common Anode switching line with each 8 segment LED. It was a rather complex problem solved by some nifty engineering. I could generate my own pulses to emulate the XY scan presses but that is programming intensive and requires me poking wires directly onto CPU decoder lines. That's all fun and games until you blow up a vintage CPU chip when you zigged instead of zagged. b) Cost and time; I did not want to code hundreds or even thousands of lines of code for such a simple idea. I did not want to use more complex controllers. The Arduino Nano, at under $5 each, is a perfect choice. c) Isolation; the relays give me galvanic separation and are nothing more than electrically controlled switches. There really is no way to mess things up. The brute force approach seems fine for this particular application. Okay now that's out of the way :)....let's continue.

I robbed some HEX codes from a Dish Network remote I found. I pulled the HEX codes by watching the Serial Monitor of the Arduino and copied those codes to a notepad. I don't use Dish so there wont be any cross contamination of remotes but I really could have used any obscure remote control. After I captured 8 different HEX codes I assigned one of them to each of the relays. Each relay pulses for about 200 milliseconds when commanded. Holding a key on the remote causes the expected repeat-ability behavior. Power consumption by the Arduino Nano and Relay Board is minuscule and power will be tapped from an existing 12 volt DC line on the P102 main board, which is before its own on-board voltage regulators. The 12 volt line is fed to a separate tiny buck-boost regulator (this was probably unnecessary, but I sleep better at night with it there).

I have posted a video of it in operation on YouTube. It can be seen here:

These photos also show some of the construction phases:

The 4 parts: Relay board, Arduino, Buck Regulator, IR Phototransistor

index.php


Wires waiting to be attached
index.php


Add photo transistor to internal bezel
index.php


Final terminations
index.php


Fully re-assembled
index.php


New IR photo transistor visible in window. Ready to sit back and enjoy long distance control.
index.php


See YouTube video above to see it in operation.
In the future I may print up a smaller board using reed relays for totally silent operation.
 

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I expanded on the modifications of the SAE preamp to utilize the power of the Arduino to do even more.
With additional programming I was able to add remote power-up capability for non-SAE gear.
In this case my SAE Preamp will turn on a Mark Levinson 332 amplifier. These two brands use different protocols for remote power.
Also the ML 332 has multi-stage power up, so logic was programmed to achieve this with one touch.
To cap it all off, I programmed a custom SAE interface into a Phillips Pronto remote for all the controls I need.
I was able to finally get the SAE CD player to work via remote too! The CD102 was the only device that had native IR remote capability but I did not have the OEM remote. I was able to program those codes into the Phillips remote also.

Here is a viddy:

Here is the custom remote:

SAE Remote.jpg
 
Absolutely awesome. I’m getting ready to put my first SAE 02 system together. (P102, E102, T102, 2xA502’s set as mono blocks, and my non-SAE sources, still looking for the matching 02 cassette and CD player for a decent price). Anyway, I’m super interested in this mod you’ve done. Any chance you’d help someone else out or walk me through it? I think I already some idea of what’s involved from what you’ve posted but I know nothing about capturing hex codes or programming. I’ve built guitar amps so I can sling solder alright.

Also considering recapping my p102 before I put the whole rack together. Any thoughts on if it would be worth my cost and trouble? Seems to be working fine as is but I’m not sure if it could be better. Still dipping my toes into the whole hifi world. That mark levinson amp looks amazing.

In addition to the sae stuff above I also have a second p102, 2 more a502’s, an a202, an i102, a 2400L, and 3 of the “two series” receivers that were sorta what got me started down this path.
Anyway, awesome work. Super interesting seeing someone give old gear fresh capabilities!
 
Dear hackerman. I’m looking to do the same soon. My R102 arrives tomorrow, I’m driving pretty far on Wednesday to hopefully pick up a C102 and D102. What’s the feasibility in adding a connector between units and add controls to all the units? Maybe through CANBUS and a couple 1/8trs headphone jacks?
 
I have a i102. No desire to use it. It is one of my 60 w/c amps I seem to have
 
*EDIT* read my post below this one first. As I may have a simpler route for my own setup.

Hey Hackerman.

Still hoping to do this. If you’d be willing to help a bit I’d be eternally grateful.
For parts is this what I need?


Relay Board
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3223681294...ar=511299077661&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Arduino Nano (this looks a little different than the one in your pics. Will this work? I think I’d want nano 3.0 with expansion adapter for easier connections?)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2550780344...ar=555057669149&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

VS1838B
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1656576342...UztQmBRTAW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I’m not sure what buck regulator to get.


It has been a while since I shared one of my projects on here.
This is the last thing I completed.
It revolves around the SAE P102. It is probably one of the least loved of the vintage SAE pieces.
Not because of its sound signature. Was there better sounding? Of course there was but this device was trying to meet a price/performance point using some cutting edge 80's technology. I think it sounded great! It tried to bring a high end look and feel to modestly priced HiFi systems. It was just too ahead of its time when it was introduced in the early 80's. The futuristic lines and purely digital controls turned many consumers, who favored knob spinning, off.

So fast forward to today. I have a collection of this gear and I still think it sounds great, especially if it has been maintained. One thing the 02 series never offered was Remote Control! :(. The D102 CD player, which was based on a highly praised Magnavox chassis, was the exception, which came with a simple remote. I don't know if eliminating remote control was a cost cutting measure. I can see how the CPU and IC's driving the user interface and logic would have been an expensive commodity in the 80's, driving up the overall cost of the device. It seems silly that a futuristic design would opt to leave out such an important feature. This is a record of my journey to change that.

I was on a mission to add remote control capability to my beloved P102. I was not looking to control all the functions. I just really need Power, Mute, Vol +/-, Bass +/- & Treble +/-. I use the pre-amp exclusively with a Schiit DAC so I don't change inputs often. The following is what I came up with and it has been installed inside the P102 enclosure. Inside is a Arduino Nano, a 8 channel relay board and a small buck-boost regulator. The relay board emulates button presses. I will jump wires to each button on the P102. If I wanted to control more buttons I could just swap in a 16 channel relay board.

NOW HOLD ON!!...before people start going bonkers and begin flaming this thread because there are "easier" ways to do this let me just say this: a) these vintage SAE components used a lot of trickery to save money and limit integrated circuit complexity. For example each button is not merely grounded to activate a function. Each button works in a XY matrix AND each button also shares a common Anode switching line with each 8 segment LED. It was a rather complex problem solved by some nifty engineering. I could generate my own pulses to emulate the XY scan presses but that is programming intensive and requires me poking wires directly onto CPU decoder lines. That's all fun and games until you blow up a vintage CPU chip when you zigged instead of zagged. b) Cost and time; I did not want to code hundreds or even thousands of lines of code for such a simple idea. I did not want to use more complex controllers. The Arduino Nano, at under $5 each, is a perfect choice. c) Isolation; the relays give me galvanic separation and are nothing more than electrically controlled switches. There really is no way to mess things up. The brute force approach seems fine for this particular application. Okay now that's out of the way :)....let's continue.

I robbed some HEX codes from a Dish Network remote I found. I pulled the HEX codes by watching the Serial Monitor of the Arduino and copied those codes to a notepad. I don't use Dish so there wont be any cross contamination of remotes but I really could have used any obscure remote control. After I captured 8 different HEX codes I assigned one of them to each of the relays. Each relay pulses for about 200 milliseconds when commanded. Holding a key on the remote causes the expected repeat-ability behavior. Power consumption by the Arduino Nano and Relay Board is minuscule and power will be tapped from an existing 12 volt DC line on the P102 main board, which is before its own on-board voltage regulators. The 12 volt line is fed to a separate tiny buck-boost regulator (this was probably unnecessary, but I sleep better at night with it there).

I have posted a video of it in operation on YouTube. It can be seen here:

These photos also show some of the construction phases:

The 4 parts: Relay board, Arduino, Buck Regulator, IR Phototransistor

index.php


Wires waiting to be attached
index.php


Add photo transistor to internal bezel
index.php


Final terminations
index.php


Fully re-assembled
index.php


New IR photo transistor visible in window. Ready to sit back and enjoy long distance control.
index.php


See YouTube video above to see it in operation.
In the future I may print up a smaller board using reed relays for totally silent operation.
 
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Actually…

I found this and I’m wondering if (for my simpler application) I could avoid a lot of headaches and just use this. It purports to be an 8 channel relay board with preprogrammed IR remote included for 8 channels of relay switching. I wouldn’t need to do any programming and could simply get a nice learning remote and control both my SAE p102 functions and also control my Peachtree iDac functions with a single learning remote and be all set.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4011673112...UztQmBRTAW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

As far as powering it… they sell a 5v and a 12v version of that relay board. I use a ifi zen blue receiver for my Bluetooth devices, which uses a 5v dc input (and I even have the expensive ultra low noise 5v high end power supply). So I think I could simply add a little dc input socket on the back of the p102 and daisy chain the ifi zen 5v power supply and not even bother with stealing any voltage from the actual p102. Otherwise I also have a spare 12v normal ifi power supply I could use.

Does this sound dumb or would this possibly be a simpler way to go for my particular setup?
For the 8 channels I’d control with the p102 I’d probably just choose standby, mute, vol +\-, bass +\-, treble +\-

Only issue I see is I might have to off mount that infrared receiver on the front panel like you did. But that shouldn’t be too hard. Just need to fabricate something to hold it in place I guess.

Here’s the learning remote I’d likely use.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32568...53a6a8d481d908399ae4d489056&afSmartRedirect=y

curious on your thoughts. Thanks again for the inspiration.
 
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That is a neat board. It should do everything my board setup does.
It looks like you can unsolder the IR receiver and relocate it. I don't think you have a choice and it will be a cleaner install.
I always like the look of OEM so I would not be inclined to introduce another power supply for the board. It has been a while since I have been in my P102 but I believe there is a constant 12v source in there from a linear regulator.
In my install a used a very inexpensive but well built DC to DC converter to provide the 5v board power and provide isolation from Fuzzy Noodle.
https://www.tindie.com/products/fuzzystudio/5v-or-33v-3a-dc-dc-step-down-voltage-regulator/
It looks like you have a path already put together in your head. Go for it.
 
One thing that popped in my head was repeatability. Since I programmed the Arduino I can make holding the volume up/down repeat at the interval I desire. With the board you are considering there may not be a repeatability option. Not a deal breaker but something to consider. Possibly you could handle that at the learning remote side.
 
I have the R102 from this line and will say I think it sounds great! Probably sounds similar to your P102. Wonder if I could do this mod too someday
 
That is a neat board. It should do everything my board setup does.
It looks like you can unsolder the IR receiver and relocate it. I don't think you have a choice and it will be a cleaner install.
I always like the look of OEM so I would not be inclined to introduce another power supply for the board. It has been a while since I have been in my P102 but I believe there is a constant 12v source in there from a linear regulator.
In my install a used a very inexpensive but well built DC to DC converter to provide the 5v board power and provide isolation from Fuzzy Noodle.
https://www.tindie.com/products/fuzzystudio/5v-or-33v-3a-dc-dc-step-down-voltage-regulator/
It looks like you have a path already put together in your head. Go for it.

Few more quick questions now that I’m getting into this.

1. Tried to order that 5v step down from fuzzy noodle but looks like their whole store is currently out of stock. Sent a message asking if they were just on vacation but no response yet. Know of any other places to grab that, or a similar quality piece?

2. Looks like it’ll be easy to unsolder and off mount the infrared receiver. Just curious how did you mount yours? The pic is from the front, so I’m just wondering if you used hot glue or how you mounted it on the back side.

3. Did you use standoffs to mount your relay board? Trying to figure out the best way to approach that. I don’t see screw holes so I’m wondering if you just used glue or something else I haven’t thought of.

4. Definitely don’t expect you to open yours up but if you happen to have any other overview pics that didn’t make this post that might show where ya grabbed that 12v for the step down converter I’d love to just use the same spot since it worked well for you.

Yours is so clean, so I’m trying to copy what ya did. Looking for some color coded wire now on eBay. Any advice on wire?

As far as the repeatability. Curious to see if it does work. I have my relay board from China now and the crappy included remote now. Takes a weird battery for the crappy remote so once I have that I can test it and see if it repeats the signal. Sent an email asking if the nice remote I’m having built repeats the signal on holds too. Fingers crossed but pressing it a bunch over and over is acceptable for me if not.

Think that covers my questions. Thanks again for the inspiration and guidance on this. Super appreciated.
 
Found a battery. And tested it. Won’t let me add a video.

Might have an issue with this board working for this application or maybe not. It’s latching rather than momentary. Not sure if that will work with the SAE relays.

When I press the remote each relay triggers on. And pressing it again triggers that relay off. It has a led for each relay so you can see what it’s doing. Is yours setup as momentary and was that a arduino programming thing? Perhaps I’m not understanding and this will work just fine.

I guess worse case I can do a really quick double tap when I need just a single increment of change.
Added two pics. One with all the relays latched/on and one with them unlatched/off.
 

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Few more quick questions now that I’m getting into this.

1. Tried to order that 5v step down from fuzzy noodle but looks like their whole store is currently out of stock. Sent a message asking if they were just on vacation but no response yet. Know of any other places to grab that, or a similar quality piece?
2. Looks like it’ll be easy to unsolder and off mount the infrared receiver. Just curious how did you mount yours? The pic is from the front, so I’m just wondering if you used hot glue or how you mounted it on the back side.
3. Did you use standoffs to mount your relay board? Trying to figure out the best way to approach that. I don’t see screw holes so I’m wondering if you just used glue or something else I haven’t thought of.
4. Definitely don’t expect you to open yours up but if you happen to have any other overview pics that didn’t make this post that might show where ya grabbed that 12v for the step down converter I’d love to just use the same spot since it worked well for you.
Yours is so clean, so I’m trying to copy what ya did. Looking for some color coded wire now on eBay. Any advice on wire?
As far as the repeatability. Curious to see if it does work. I have my relay board from China now and the crappy included remote now. Takes a weird battery for the crappy remote so once I have that I can test it and see if it repeats the signal. Sent an email asking if the nice remote I’m having built repeats the signal on holds too. Fingers crossed but pressing it a bunch over and over is acceptable for me if not.
Think that covers my questions. Thanks again for the inspiration and guidance on this. Super appreciated.

Let me see if I can help :)

1) I have not ordered from Fuzzy Noodle in a while. The chip shortages have been hard on small developers. I literally waited a year for certain semiconductors. I would try them via e-mail again. If they don't respond try sourcing something similar with similar specs.
2) I drilled a hole in the plastic black bezel and used hot glue on the back side where you cannot see. Be careful with hot glue. It can deform plastics. I may have used epoxy. I cannot remember. It's been a while. I highly suggest putting shrink tube on IR sensor leads. Glue can have parasitic effects if in contact with exposed wiring.
3) I absolutely used brass stand-offs. I had a box of assorted stand-offs I bought from Amazon. I used standoffs for the regulator board too. You can see the black screws for the stand-off in one of the photos.
4) I grabbed it from the stand-by voltage circuit. If memory serves there should be a linear voltage regulator (ie like 7805 or 7812) mounted to a heat sink. Most linear regulators have a smoothing cap nearby. You could grab it from there. It is a source of power that never turns off. Use the schematics for the power supply section or just probe with meter. I don't have any other photos.
4) That wire was simply a console cable for a Cisco Router, but chopped up. The conductors are small and the wire is flexible. The wire does not carry any real current so it can be thin. Power wires should be a little thicker.

I would caution about that relay board if it does not have temporary contact closure. There is no guarantee with IR signals. If you have to press once for ON and then press again for OFF your board may never see and OFFG request. Infrared is "best-effort" delivery. If you are controlling volume, that relay could close and stay that way, having your pre-amp on a runaway Vol-Up request. I don't know about your amp but my SAE preamp is connected to a Mark Levinson 332 amplifier and it will immediately vaporize a speaker if not treated with respect!

Sorry it took so long to respond. I am working on a lot of stuff!
 
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Found a battery. And tested it. Won’t let me add a video.

Might have an issue with this board working for this application or maybe not. It’s latching rather than momentary. Not sure if that will work with the SAE relays.

When I press the remote each relay triggers on. And pressing it again triggers that relay off. It has a led for each relay so you can see what it’s doing. Is yours setup as momentary and was that a arduino programming thing? Perhaps I’m not understanding and this will work just fine.

I guess worse case I can do a really quick double tap when I need just a single increment of change.
Added two pics. One with all the relays latched/on and one with them unlatched/of

I just responded to this question on my previous post. Non-momentary contact closure could be dangerous. With the Arduino I program the momentary action and hold-repeatability.

Thanks
 
Let me see if I can help :)

1) I have not ordered from Fuzzy Noodle in a while. The chip shortages have been hard on small developers. I literally waited a year for certain semiconductors. I would try them via e-mail again. If they don't respond try sourcing something similar with similar specs.
2) I drilled a hole in the plastic black bezel and used hot glue on the back side where you cannot see. Be careful with hot glue. It can deform plastics. I may have used epoxy. I cannot remember. It's been a while. I highly suggest putting shrink tube on IR sensor leads. Glue can have parasitic effects if in contact with exposed wiring.
3) I absolutely used brass stand-offs. I had a box of assorted stand-offs I bought from Amazon. I used standoffs for the regulator board too. You can see the black screws for the stand-off in one of the photos.
4) I grabbed it from the stand-by voltage circuit. If memory serves there should be a linear voltage regulator (ie like 7805 or 7812) mounted to a heat sink. Most linear regulators have a smoothing cap nearby. You could grab it from there. It is a source of power that never turns off. Use the schematics for the power supply section or just probe with meter. I don't have any other photos.
4) That wire was simply a console cable for a Cisco Router, but chopped up. The conductors are small and the wire is flexible. The wire does not carry any real current so it can be thin. Power wires should be a little thicker.

I would caution about that relay board if it does not have temporary contact closure. There is no guarantee with IR signals. If you have to press once for ON and then press again for OFF your board may never see and OFFG request. Infrared is "best-effort" delivery. If you are controlling volume, that relay could close and stay that way, having your pre-amp on a runaway Vol-Up request. I don't know about your amp but my SAE preamp is connected to a Mark Levinson 332 amplifier and it will immediately vaporize a speaker if not treated with respect!

Sorry it took so long to respond. I am working on a lot of stuff!

My friend who builds and designs circuit boards for satellites and also guitar effects pedals helped me track this down. https://a.co/d/1dMEYLY

Has a solder pad to select either momentary (.5 seconds), several delayed momentary settings, and full latching. Also has a built in regulator and takes 5-12v. Should be my answer! Sending the other back.
Also found some rainbow colored flat 8pin wire and brass standoffs. Will start looking at epoxy for the ir and be sure to shrink tube.

Thanks again so much for your help. Will update when the new relay board arrives and I get going on it.
As an aside that Mark Levinson is gorgeous. Looked at the prices and it scared me though.I’ll be using 2x SAE A502’s setup as a monoblock for 600 watts per channel. Hoping it sounds pretty good that way even if it’s not that high end of an amp.
 
Also have an SAE 2400L and if I can find a second one for not too much, I might use those in a vertical biamp situation over the pair of sae a502’s. Having been inside them, the 2400L really seems to be built much better. Haven’t listened to them side by side but I know the 2400 has much more headroom with my limited testing . Maybe someday I’ll sell it all and grab an ML. Since you have an a502 as well, I’m curious on how drastic of an improvement it is over the sae.
 
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