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My attempt at a SX-680 recap list

osaekomi said:
Hello everyone.
I've a Pioneer SX-680 to repair and I'm compiling a list of material which includes both STK0039 and the the list of capacitors (thanks for compiling it). I've been checking the availability of each item in the list (Mouser.com) and I found two that are marked as obsolete - Not available

598-DSF050J474 -> CEANL R47M; 50; 0,47; 50; 2; C301, C302
598-DSF050J105 -> CEANL 010M; 50; 1; 50; 2; C138, C141

Also not available the mentioned replacements:
667-ECQ-V1H474JL - .47uF 50V 5%
667-ECQ-V1H105JL - 1uF 50V 5%

Could someone help me here. Which capacitors should I use instead?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Don't order anything until you can source some original STK0039s... and here's the problem - you can't. Nobody can. They don't exist. Fake parts will do you no good - and that's all that's available.

I figure you're better off scrapping this thing for parts, someone will probably pay well for a knob or two.
 
Working on my own list and noticed for caps C124,C129,C142 I have 1uF units in my reciever and it lists 1uf not 10uf in my schematic. What made you increase the capacitance and should I increase for my unit? thanks.
 
Hi Gents,
Just wondering if anyone can extend this BOM to include transistors, diodes, resistors perhaps ?
So far it's only a Recap. Surely there would be other items in need of replacement ?
I feel that just recapping isn't always a good idea, which is why I like to go all the way and refresh everything as needed to put the unit on par with itself.
Thanks
 
Awesome. The 680 doesn't look like it has much in the way of the "troubleprone transistors" other than a few 2sa725 and 726's. If the offset is way off you can replace the 2sa798's (duals) with matching pairs of the 2sa992 singles.They can be replaced with KSA992 pairs in common-emitter configuration. Two ECB KSA992s like this: b,c,ee,c,b The Dual 2sa798 hasn't been made in a decade or more. Other than that it's mainly a recap, making sure resistors are sound, and also the solder joints. If you have a bad output pack, consider going with the kit of discrete parts for the 780 replacement. See this link. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/stk-0050-replacement-for-sx-780-and-others.721181/ You'll be able to crank it to 13 and not worry about blowing a pack. All discrete and is being used on a number of other PIONEER and Fisher units with packs.
 
Hey, thanks Larry. I understand why only a cap list only exists then.
Funnily enough, I have a 680 and 690 both with one faulty outputs on each.
I plan to salvage the good STK from the 690 and pair it with good one in the 680 and then install the discrete kit in the 690.

I have already purchased two sets of discrete units from Bob and will eventually implant one pair in the 690 and keep the spare set on standby for the 780.
Have to get cracking on the purchase of the BOM for these.
This will be a whole new experience for me, but I'm willing to give it a go.

Have you had a chance to build and install these discrete kits in any of your gear yet Larry ?
 
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With everything going on the last few months, I haven't had a chance do do anything audio wise on the bench. I've had a Fisher 400 sitting there torn down since Feb. It's almost finished but the way I feel right now, it's not gonna be anytime soon. The 790 is running fine on the factory packs, so I'll eventually build the new boards and just hold on to them until either the packs die or I sell it. Good choice on putting them in the 690. IT's a lot more rare than the 680.
 
I’m getting ready to recap my SX680. It works well but I want to keep it for a while and want to ensure that it will keep functioning so I’m going to change out the electrolytic caps. I have read thru the threads in regards to this subject and wanted to ask a couple of questions that I’m curious about. As I was looking at the list provided by member “Mark the fixer” I noticed that there are a couple of caps on the list that are not polarized electrolytics.

598-DSF050J105
598-DSF050J474
I’m curious as to why are these necessary to replace? Are they known to be troublesome?

I made my list off of physically looking at each cap and measuring them for my search of replacements. In one of the threads it was mentioned that some of the particular replacements were chosen over other like ones for certain reasons possibly such as ripple current or something technical like that? I’m not completely educated when it comes to things like that so I figured that I would ask for future knowledge. I want to make sure I install the optimum parts that will work best in this receiver.
 
The DSF caps are films that replace small value (<4.0uf) lytics in areas where a film would be a better choice both for longevity and circuit stability. Obviously, you can replace the current electrolytic with another (probably a Nichicon UKL IIRC) lytic, but the difference in price per unit is negligible. And you won't have to change them out in 20 years either.

Mark the Fixer is one of the BEST (if not the BEST) PIONEER Tech/GURU's on AK. 99% of the parts lists on the PIONEER Forum at one time or another was originally from Mark. Compare his list with your unit and make changes to the list based on your unit. But use the same type caps he spec'ed. He's got 30+ years at this and has compared tons of caps and the Nichicon UPW/UHE and UKL are the GO TO caps. If he specifies a film cap in place of a lytic, it's probably because of the SANYO "Robin Egg Blue" Solid Aluminium cap originally installed. There are exceptions to that, but generally it's a good bet. I've done 8 or 9 PIONEER's of various types over the years and have always used Marks lists. One of the 1st one's I did was my SX434 I got in 1975. I did a proactive, prophylactic overhaul, and it runs better today 10 years later than it did new. So there ya go. And the rest of them? I sold the 1010, 535, 780, but kept the 626, 737, 790, 939, and the 434.
 
Thanks so much for the reply. Those non polarized caps on mouser are now obsolete. Is there a suitable replacement? Not sure if I overlooked it in thee posts. Thanks
 
markthefixer said:
598-DSF050J474 currently checks out at mouser with 796 in stock....

but, just in case...

667-ECQ-V1H474JL has stock of 37,000....
Click to expand...

With both of these being obsolete now what would be a suitable substitute or should I just go back to using the electrolytic as was originally in that spot? Are there any substantial pros or cons to doing that with this particular model? I'm compiling my order list for Mouser and want to get everything on the same order.......Thanks
 
I'm not sure but there might be a possible discrepancy in a part number listed here and want to clarify.
CEA 470P 16 is showing mouser part # 647-UPW1C470MED which Mousers site says does not exist. Is that possibly a typo and should be 647-UPW1C470MDD? Just asking before I submit my order.
 
It's MDD. The Lettering suffixes are usually packaging options. Bulk and 2-3 different tape options for machine use.
 
Cornell Dublier makes a series called "DME" QUite small size wise and I used them to good effect in place of the ECQ or the DCF's. AFAIC A film cap of comparable value and voltage is always better than an electrolytic.
 
Leestereo said:
The stacked polyester film capacitors from the Kemet R82 series (e.g., https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/R82DC3470AA60J?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF512ADDNLQZJyA20IPMfoY0=) and the WIMA MKS2 series (e.g., https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2C034701C00JO00?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF7l45uRd9dVhXDUZ%2bDt6lMQ=) are suitable as replacements for Panasonic ECQ types.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys for your input. I have my list almost complete except for the .47uf @ 50V and the 1uf @ 50V.

Leestereo I take it that you have used these in the past with good results?
 
Yes, I have used both brands to good effect in restoration/upgrade projects. Here is a picture of a restored/upgraded preamplifier stage in which the signal path electrolytic capacitors have been replaced with WIMA capacitors:
index.php
 
OK this is the list that I compiled by physically looking and measuring the actual capacitors. I cross checked with markthefixers list on this thread. I did not use the schematic being I did it as a visual with the actual unit. I made my spreadsheet in a manner that would make sense to me so please don't beat me up too bad. Please let me know if there is anything that I might have overlooked.


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