My Large Advent Econo-Waveguide Build Thread
- Thread starter MWalt
- Start date
ROSSO
Active Member
Nice job!
Next time prime and sand your MDF baffles with a good coat of sanding sealer or enamel paint to seal the native imperfections. Sanding sealer costs more, but drys much faster.
You should be able to get black screws online at McMaster-Carr: WWW.McMaster.com best hardware website on the planet.
Next time when you use the XO PCB's and are mounting it in close proximity to the terminal plate, consider that you can use two long 1/4" bolts or studs directly through the two + and - holes on the PCB. Combine them with some jamb nuts to mount the XO directly to your masonite. This saves you the work of the four corner screws and a couple of solder joints. Mine look like this: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2811608&postcount=6119
I used to buy long brass machine screws for this, but lately I have bought lengths of 1/4"-20 brass and aluminum rod. I use the brass for the '+' terminal and the aluminum for the '-' terminal - a color-code idea I stole from the back of a household 120V duplex electrical outlet. The color difference keeps me from forgetting which is which. An added bonus is that McMaster ships the rods in heavy cardboard tubes with a 3" I.D. that make great port material.
Next time prime and sand your MDF baffles with a good coat of sanding sealer or enamel paint to seal the native imperfections. Sanding sealer costs more, but drys much faster.
You should be able to get black screws online at McMaster-Carr: WWW.McMaster.com best hardware website on the planet.
Next time when you use the XO PCB's and are mounting it in close proximity to the terminal plate, consider that you can use two long 1/4" bolts or studs directly through the two + and - holes on the PCB. Combine them with some jamb nuts to mount the XO directly to your masonite. This saves you the work of the four corner screws and a couple of solder joints. Mine look like this: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2811608&postcount=6119
I used to buy long brass machine screws for this, but lately I have bought lengths of 1/4"-20 brass and aluminum rod. I use the brass for the '+' terminal and the aluminum for the '-' terminal - a color-code idea I stole from the back of a household 120V duplex electrical outlet. The color difference keeps me from forgetting which is which. An added bonus is that McMaster ships the rods in heavy cardboard tubes with a 3" I.D. that make great port material.
Last edited:
MWalt
Super Member
Thanks for the link on the hardware! I don't know if you noticed or not, but the crossover PC board has 3/8" spacers between it and the masonite. I have #6 wood screws that are screwed into the masonite. That is how I secured the crossovers to the masonite. I then used construction adhesive to secure the masonite to the inner cabs.
Here's the designer's intent for crossover PC board mounting on the input terminals:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2766696#post2766696
With thinner Masonite, add a 1/4" washer or two under the first jam nut to get past the knurled section of the stock Dayton terminals.... :thmbsp:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2766696#post2766696
With thinner Masonite, add a 1/4" washer or two under the first jam nut to get past the knurled section of the stock Dayton terminals.... :thmbsp:
MWalt
Super Member
I wanted to use the stock binding post setup on the PC board and failed miserably. For some reason, after I drilled the two holes for the new binding posts I could not get the posts to sit flush. They leaned in and were touching each other due to a bad job by myself in locating the holes. At that point, I just went ahead and remote mounted the posts. My whole buildup ended up coming out nicely despite some serious screwups on my part *grin*
ROSSO
Active Member
You need to buy yourself a set of transfer punches. They come in 1/32" increments and have a point set in the tip. Find the punch that fits snug in the hole of your template or PCB, tap the end with a small hammer and you have perfect center punches every time. McMaster-Carr for those too...
MWalt
Super Member
That's another good idea you've given me. I really did want to integrate the binding posts into the PC board like designed. I wish I knew someone around here with your woodworking expertise. Thanks, and keep em' coming :thmbsp:
ROSSO
Active Member
My woodworking expertise has been acquired entirely over the last 10 months when I began my first involvement with the e-wave thread - prior to that - zilch (But not "Zilch", who is different
). Ive done 4 pair now, and one pair of them twice, going from the JBL/Selenium to QSC/B&C. Mechanical engineer by profession.Advent Speaker Mods
Nice works. I just obtained a pair of Advent A4 speakers. They are sounding very good. I am thinking about doing mods to the speakers but not exactly the same way you're doing. Here are my thoughts.
1. Double the size of the cabinet.
2. Add another A4 woofer to the speaker (tweeter, woofer, woofer).
3. New tweeter can be replaced with horn type speaker if needed.
4. Mod xcross.
Please advise me if this is a good idea or is it just crazy ideas?
Please reply to d052057@yahoo.com.
Thanks.
Nice works. I just obtained a pair of Advent A4 speakers. They are sounding very good. I am thinking about doing mods to the speakers but not exactly the same way you're doing. Here are my thoughts.
1. Double the size of the cabinet.
2. Add another A4 woofer to the speaker (tweeter, woofer, woofer).
3. New tweeter can be replaced with horn type speaker if needed.
4. Mod xcross.
Please advise me if this is a good idea or is it just crazy ideas?
Please reply to d052057@yahoo.com.
Thanks.
Ok,, I'll bite. Crazy ideas.
You're basically building a new speaker, but it sounds like your first attempt. You'll need a completely different crossover, there's no practical way to double cabinet size, that's not harder than building cabs fron scratch, and the existing drivers aren't really that good.
If you're not going to EWave the Advents, you may as well use a proven design from the many talent DIY speaker designers.
Try these: http://speakerdesignworks.com/index_page_2.html,
http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy, http://speakers.lonesaguaro.com/speakers/, http://www.zaphaudio.com/index.html
These are just a few. Go over the TechTalk at Parts Express.
You're basically building a new speaker, but it sounds like your first attempt. You'll need a completely different crossover, there's no practical way to double cabinet size, that's not harder than building cabs fron scratch, and the existing drivers aren't really that good.
If you're not going to EWave the Advents, you may as well use a proven design from the many talent DIY speaker designers.
Try these: http://speakerdesignworks.com/index_page_2.html,
http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy, http://speakers.lonesaguaro.com/speakers/, http://www.zaphaudio.com/index.html
These are just a few. Go over the TechTalk at Parts Express.
4343
Super Member
2.5 way!
Two woofers works best when one is close to the tweeter, and allowed to run up to the crossover point, while the lower one has the midrange filtered out of it. Referred to as "2.5 Way". You can either run the woofers in parallel, with a large inductor on the lower one, or series with a large capacitor across the lower woofer. I've done it both ways, and found it takes a very low resistance (large gauge wire) inductor to keep the lower woofer at the same volume as the upper in it's range.
Two scenarios I've used:
Parallel:
Two 8 ohm woofers end up at 4 ohms in the bass range where they both are working, then the impedance rises to 8 ohms when the coil blocks the mids from one. Use an 8 ohm LP on the crossover.
Series:
Two 4 ohm woofers end up at 8 ohms in the bass range where they both are working, then the impedance drops to 4 ohms when the capacitor blocks the mids from one. Use a 4 ohm LP on the crossover.
Picking the frequency to filter the mids from the woofer is more a matter of not going too high. You want to stay a little below the maximum frequency that results in mutual coupling. (Where the distance between your two woofers (Center to Center) is too great for them to sound like one source.)
Two woofers works best when one is close to the tweeter, and allowed to run up to the crossover point, while the lower one has the midrange filtered out of it. Referred to as "2.5 Way". You can either run the woofers in parallel, with a large inductor on the lower one, or series with a large capacitor across the lower woofer. I've done it both ways, and found it takes a very low resistance (large gauge wire) inductor to keep the lower woofer at the same volume as the upper in it's range.
Two scenarios I've used:
Parallel:
Two 8 ohm woofers end up at 4 ohms in the bass range where they both are working, then the impedance rises to 8 ohms when the coil blocks the mids from one. Use an 8 ohm LP on the crossover.
Series:
Two 4 ohm woofers end up at 8 ohms in the bass range where they both are working, then the impedance drops to 4 ohms when the capacitor blocks the mids from one. Use a 4 ohm LP on the crossover.
Picking the frequency to filter the mids from the woofer is more a matter of not going too high. You want to stay a little below the maximum frequency that results in mutual coupling. (Where the distance between your two woofers (Center to Center) is too great for them to sound like one source.)
