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My MKE SL-1200 MK2 Project

I've got the wheels in motion concerning a custom powder coating on the MKE via a local shop (how cool is that?)

So I've started looking/shopping for a tonearm because the junky stock tonearm got sent off to an inspiring AKer(;)). Not sure what the budget is just yet, but I hope to be able to reach as high as $500 for the absolute tippy top. It will likely be a lower budget though. I'm aware of the Rega's and the handy arm boards that are available, but I'm wondering what are some other slick choices to consider?
 
levlhed said:
I'm aware of the Rega's and the handy arm boards that are available, but I'm wondering what are some other slick choices to consider?
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I really like my Jelco 370H, although it's not on my 1200. It's basically the same as a Sumiko MMT, with a removable head-shell. Stock technics head-shells work in it just fine, or you can use something fancy. Same spindle to pivot distance (+/- 1mm) as Rega.

Jeff
 
I've been looking at the Jelco arms, I've found the seller in Greece that makes an armboard for them. Makes them a viable candidate. I don't think I want to fabricate my own, but I guess if a great deal on a sweet arm came along in this process that necessitated some fabrication I'd have to consider it...

Is the Jelco 370 comparable to the Jelco 250? Is it better because it has a bigger number? It seems like it's an older production..
 
levlhed said:
I've got the wheels in motion concerning a custom powder coating on the MKE via a local shop (how cool is that?)

So I've started looking/shopping for a tonearm because the junky stock tonearm got sent off to an inspiring AKer(;)).

Careful, that arm is far from junky my friend. I've read post over at audioasylum where guys have bought the Jelco and found it wasn't any better than the stock arm Save your money and upgrade your 1200arm.
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I guess I should have clarified again. If you read from the beginning you'll see that of the two decks, one of the arms was well hammered with pieces missing and broken off. I was referring to that specific arm, not making a sweeping generalization about Technics tonearms in general.

I gave that arm away, so now I don't have an arm to upgrade. I am interested in putting a different arm on that one, the one I am calling MKE. The stock deck will remain with the stock arm, no upgrades.


Which Jelco arm are you referring to? They have a few different ones.
 
levlhed said:
I've been looking at the Jelco arms, I've found the seller in Greece that makes an armboard for them. Makes them a viable candidate. I don't think I want to fabricate my own, but I guess if a great deal on a sweet arm came along in this process that necessitated some fabrication I'd have to consider it...

Is the Jelco 370 comparable to the Jelco 250? Is it better because it has a bigger number? It seems like it's an older production..
Click to expand...

The Jelco 250 is nice, but the 370 is superior. The 370 is basically a Sumiko MMT and both very much like the current 750 series. These have fluid damping, while the 250 Jelcos do not.

The 370 and MMT from what I can figure are almost identical if not identical while the 750 has a slightly different geometry (if i recall correctly, shorter length).


The Audioquest PT-6 looks like the Jelco 250, but is not- the Audioquest features a screw off top lid plate and fluid damping while the 250, though it looks much like it, does not have this feature, and does not have the nicer bearings specs the Audioquest does.
 
Thank you very much for the clarification on the differences between the different Jelco arms and the added bit about the PT-6! I'd almost gathered all that info over the past couple of days...but wasn't able to coalesce it into a concise summary in my head yet:)
I do think the 370 and MMT have the same geometry.
I was thinking the Jelco 250 wasn't going to be enough an upgrade over the stock arm, but maybe the 370 or MMT gets me far enough (otherwise whats the point, right?).
 
The later Audioquest PT-9 looks to be the 750 rebadged and slightly modified with it seems higher grade wire and tighter spec'd bearings (the bearing specs perhaps questionable). Hard to find, but they are out there and can be had new but at a premium over the 750.
 
levlhed said:
I was thinking the Jelco 250 wasn't going to be enough an upgrade over the stock arm, but maybe the 370 or MMT gets me far enough (otherwise whats the point, right?).
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I haven't used them, but I would think that the internal fluid dampening reservoir on that arm would be superior to the KAB trough and rake system. At the very least it would be more convenient.

BTW, have you checked the auction site for that arm? There is a seller who has eight of them NOS for well under your stated budget. (It would be good for you to get one so you can tell me how it compares... you know... just in case.)
 
Yes, I saw them. I'm leaning that way, but I really need to sell off some things around here to finance first! Otherwise I'll use some credit, then sell things and never put it back on the credit...I'll just go spend it on more stuff. I'm horrible that way.
I'll have to wait and see what's available when I get my paypal balance built up....

My goal with keeping one stock and upgrading the other is to provide some A/B recording comparisons here @ AK to satisfy some curiosity. So instead of having to go by my word/opinion maybe you'll be able to hear for yourself!
 
BTW, what are you using for a mat on the stock table? I hope it's not one of those cruddy DJ slipmats.
 
RE: powder coating

I got a rough quote back via email. If I'm OK with one of their "stock" colors, the sales guy said it'd be about $25. I'd need to sand that rough spot smooth, I don't even have to worry about the other existing paint.
I prep it, drop it off, and check out their production schedule which shows when they will be running which stock color...apparently it shouldn't ever take more than a couple weeks.

For $25 I don't think I could even buy the paint to DIY!
 
$25 is a steal.

I do think, however, you need to strip ALL the paint.

Powdercoating uses an electrical charge to attract the paint to the metal. Any paint left on the body is going to prohibit proper adhesion/attraction.
 
I went back and edited before your reply because I got clarification. They strip off the paint there. I just need to make sure it is smooth as the powder coating win't fill in the scratches/etc.

Looking on their website it looks like the stock colors are a red, orange, blue, white, flat black and gloss black.

I have half a mind to get the stock one done up too! To increase it's resale value!
 
For $25 a piece, I'd definitely do both. That's chump change!

I bet the white and gloss black will come out the nicest.
 
levlhed said:
I went back and edited before your reply because I got clarification. They strip off the paint there. I just need to make sure it is smooth as the powder coating win't fill in the scratches/etc.

Looking on their website it looks like the stock colors are a red, orange, blue, white, flat black and gloss black.

I have half a mind to get the stock one done up too! To increase it's resale value!
Click to expand...

Gloss black is the way to go, IMHO. It'll turn those DJ-abused relics into things of beauty.
 
I guess they have more stock colors than that. I will know more when I physically bring it in for them to do. I'm feelin' the gloss black as well..but I also don't mind some color!
I think I will wait on doing the stock one until I get the MKE running otherwise I might not have anything to listen to records with!

And all that talk about my not buying anything until I get my paypal balance built up? Well, forget I even said that because I'm a spontaneous free chooser of life and meaning. With a bad bidding habit. I put the opening bid in on a NOS Audioquest PT-9 Basic (with wire) and won it. I think $350 delivered was a pretty good deal, no?
 
If you can get to the platters between stripping and painting, be sure to mask the part under the platter, or at the very least put tape over any of the threaded spindles that are under the platter. Technics uses the plinth as a common ground (like automotive wiring) and I've heard of noise issues after painting if the paint isn't fully conductive.
 
As of today I got the PT-9, arm board from Greece, and the powder coating is done. Unfortunately, the powder coating is not perfect. They said there was "out gassing" where the sticker was in the lower right corner. I don't really understand how/what happened, but it is what it is. I guess I can either live with it, sand it down and get it done over again, or find another one/use the stock one and have that one done with hopefully better results. Since I'm still waiting for some KAB parts I have a little time to figure out what to do about it. I'm leaning towards either leaving it and just finding a cool/appropriate sticker to cover that up or waiting until I'm ready to take apart the stock one and swapping them once it is done.

Anyway, I couldn't resist putting the arm board in, setting the tonearm on, and setting the platter in place to see kind of what it looks like and snap some pics for an update.

I'm not quite sure how the PT-9 gets mounted, I don't think I have it on there right yet.

IMG_1690.JPG

IMG_1691.JPG
 
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