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My oak system is growing

So-all the gear had wood cabinets on them except the timer?
What did you make the timer case from?
We have a pretty crummy table saw here on the farm-it's not exactly what you'd use for furniture-grade projects. I don't trust the rip fence, it's kinda wonky.
What do you use for a saw blade on something like this?
You need to write up a whole tutorial!! For amateurs like me, anyway.
 
I gotta say that they all look fantastic. Planning on doing the same my self, but I'm waiting to get all the components I want..

Knowing nothing at all about wood working and veneer I have to ask. Did you use the Iron on, or peel and stick? After you applied the veneer did you then sand it? Did you use any kind of stain or clear coat?

By the way did I mention they look great!
 
That would be great Paul, I agree with gearhead, you should do a whole write up for future members to bask in awe, or copy your work, depends on how you look at it. Either way, you'll be famous,(around here). :D
 
I am not qualified to do a tutorial on the subject of veneering seeing that I only have 2 weeks experience myself on the subject. I know that there are qualified ak'ers that could tell you the proper way to do veneering.

However, since there is interest in what I did I will give you a quick rundown of my experience.

-I started by removing the panels and unscrewing any grilles that were attached.

-I sanded the paint off the metal grille from the cassette deck and then painted it with Rust-Oleum Satin Black paint. I put about 3 thin coats on it. It doesn't have the shine of the original grille but I like the satin look. You can use gloss black if you wish.

-I then peeled off the crappy vinyl veneer from the wood panels and sanded the panels with 150 grit paper to remove the shine and then with 220 grit to smooth it out to give a nice surface for the adhesive to adhere to. I then took a slightly damp rag and wiped down the panels to remove any loose sanding dust.

-The front and top edges of the panels apppeared to be some kind of real(?) (fake) veneer, not vinyl. I opted not to try to remove them to avoid damaging the cabinets. I instead sanded those edges with 150 then 220 grit paper then wiped them down with a slightly damp rag.

-I unrolled the oak veneer on the kitchen table and cut the pieces for the sides of the panels, with scissors, to size plus 1/4" all around. I made sure to cut so the grain would follow the long side of the panel.

-I plugged in the clothing iron and set it to "cotton" and let it come up to temperature. Placing aluminum foil between the iron and the veneer, I heated up the veneer to melt the adhesive and allow the glue to adhere to the panels. Of course I was doing 1 panel at a time as the glue will adhere quickly. If you make a mistake and need to remove a piece of the veneer after the glue has set you will have some work major ahead of you. Trust me from experience. The veneer will come off in small broken pieces and you'll have some pretty stubborn glue to remove as well. The Band-It brand iron-on recommends you let the glue set for 24 hours before attempting to trim. I waited about an hour and I tell you it was really stuck.

-Using the Ban-It Edge Trimmer, I trimmed the edges of the panel. It does a good job of trimming very close to the panel. NOTE: When trimming against the grain, be sure to score or at least cut into the veneer outer edges with a razor blade cutting or scoring toward the inside of the veneer to avoid chipping the outer edge.

-Then I used strips of Band-It veneer edging, which I purchased in a 25' roll continuous, and ironed it on to the top edge of the panel, let it set, and trimmed using the edge trimmer as described above.

-Then I ironed a strip of veneer edging on the front edge of the panel, let it set and trimmed as previously described.

-Now you have to sand all the edges where they meet to make them blend together, smooth and square. I didn't trust myself with a power tool to do the sanding of the edges so I used 220 grit sandpaper and did all the edges by hand. Be sure to follow the direction of the wood grain. You don't want to scratch it again the direction of the grain.

- Now I had to drill the holes for the mounting screws. I used a 1/8" drill bit and using the existing screw holes from the inside of the cabinets, drilled from the inside of the cabinet to the outside and through the veneer. Then I enlarged the hole on the outside of the cabinet to match the size of the original enlarged recessed holes using the appropriate size drill bit. Sanded around the edge of the holes with 220 paper to smooth the out and blend them in.

-I did the final sanding of the surfaces of each panel by hand with 220 grit sandpaper, again sanding in the direction of the grain, and did another final sanding of the edges, wiped with a slightly damp cloth, allowed to dry.

-Then applied the first coat of Minwax semi-clear polurethane. I let it set for at least 12 hours then lightly sanded with 220 sandpaper, wiped with slightly damp cloth, and applied the second coat of polyurethane.

-I chose to use only 2 coats of polyurethane because I like being able to feel the grain of the wood veneer. There is no doubt that it is real wood when someone touches it and they can feel the actual grain of the wood. After the second coat dried, I felt it to see if I should very lightly sand it with the 220 sanpaper again.

-Then attached the grille, where applicable, and installed the cabinet on the component.

I know this is coming from someone with very little woodworking experience and no photos to show of the process, but hopefully I at least gave you more encouragement to do try it yourself.
It really is a lot of fun.

If anyone with more experience has some tips for me for any future veneering projects, please tell me. If I'm doing something improperly I would really like to know.

Paul
 

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You're doing great Paul, don't sell yourself short, and bring on the pics for the next project. :thmbsp:
 
gearhead said:
Thanks for providing details. :thmbsp:
Was the old veneer very hard to get off?

The veneer on the side of the panels was vinyl adhesive. Very easy to remove. It is basically a thin sticker that looks like wood. Just find a spot where it may be starting to peel or possibly chipped and you should have no problem removing it.

The veneer on the front edge and top edge appear to be something other than a sticker. Possibly a wood or plastic trim made to look like wood. It was going to be way to dificult for me to remove and possibly cause more damage to the case than I was ready to deal with so I sanded those edges down and applied the real wood oak veneer on top of it.

Paul
 
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I bought some "Bubinga" off of the bay, but it seem really wavy. I'm a bit intimadated to put adhesive down, and not have it come out right. I'll probably start on one of the cases for the big CT-F's and see what hapens.
 
Stev,

If you're really that concerned, try it on a scrap piece of wood and see if you get the results you want.

I will have to do a search to find out what bubinga looks like.

Paul
 
Nice job!!!!

A GOOD heat gun will help remove any old wood veneer or vinyl veneer. Just heat up a courner and the glue will give. Start to peel it up and work your way from there with the heat gun.
 
Nice looking stuff Steve. Extremely unique. Can't wait to see what you do with it.

Thanks for the heat gun advice OMI. Every bit of Information I can get is very helpful.
Will that also work for something like the veneer on the HPM-100 speakers?

Paul
 
DBX dressed in oak

Well, here it is. My most recent veneer project. Built the cabinet and veneered it in red oak to match the other components. Although I may redo the side panels as they look a bit too wide to me. Kind of out of proportion for the size of the unit. What do you think? New side panels or not?

Paul
 

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I think the ends look good. It has a distinctive look and a conversation piece that you did it yourself. Not everything has to look like it was stamped out at a factory.
 
I really like the look of the oak and you have done a great job. That is a beautiful set of components. Betcha just like to sit and stare at 'em.
 
Building on OMI's heat gun suggestion... My preference is a Wagner Heat Gun as sold in paint departments of big box hardware stores. The features to look for are variable heat some way to stand the unit when it is hot.

The variable heat means you can dial up only as much heat as you need for the task. Too much heat on vinyl and it will stretch forever, and veneer will begin to char.
 
That looks very nice, but I agree the stickers have to go. why cover that nice work?! btw, side panels on dbx unit look good to me.
 
The stickers are gone already. And I agree that it does look better witout them.

It took AK to inspire me to attempt this project. I have seen some wonderful projects here and I couldn't help but try it myself. There is nothing quite as sweet as the feeling one gets when a project turns out well. Especially when my audio gear is involved.

I work hard to take care of my stuff, but once I started peeling the vinyl off my first piece, which was the CT-F950, I knew there was no turning back and that if I screwed this up, that I was going to be very bummed. But it turned out so well, and I got so many compliments from fellow ak'ers that I knew I couldn't stop there. I got a lot of encouragement and a boost in confidence from all the wonderful compliments and comments.

Ampzilla,
You're right. It doesn't have to look like it was stamped out at a factory. I will leave it alone and decide what to oak next instead. Thank you.

Steve Gibson,
I must admit that I do enjoy looking at them. I get bummed sometimes because you really can't see much of the components in my current audio rack. You mainly only see the face. I wouldn't mind having an open style rack or a glass rack.

drspif,
Thanks for the advice on the heat gun. Do you think I should veneer over the existing veneer on my HPM-100's if I decide to do them? Also what minimum thickness of veneer should I use for speaker cabinets? As you probably know, the 100's weigh in at just under 60 pounds each.

Paul
 
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