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My oak system is growing

"Do you think I should veneer over the existing veneer on my HPM-100's if I decide to do them"

From what I've read/heard is, that if the vaneer is not pealing or ripped and generally
a nice flat surface to work with then leaving it on and vaneereing over it is the much
preferred method. Just what I've heard, no experience here.
 
Caution Labels

Gentlemen,

How do you end up with fresh looking caution labels on the sides of the cabinets when you are refinishing the wood or applying new veneer? Is there a source for reproduction labels? If so do they stock the different sizes, styles, and fonts used on different Pioneer units? Thanks in advance.

Dave
 
Hi Dave,

Welcome to AK. Hope you enjoy this place. It's my favorite place on the web.

I think I got lucky with the labels. I got a corner with a razor blade and slowly and gently worked the blade all the way through underneath the label. Even the original adhesive was still intact. That's why I say I was lucky.

I'm curious to hear how the other guys do it. I'm sure not all the labels come off that easily.

Paul
 
Great-looking work, especially for only 2 weeks/first attempt! The silver looks good with the oak, sort of more "updated" and "clean" than the usual walnut, and has been pointed out, it probably has much higher WAF. Doing all the units with the same cases and carrying the grain across (up) like that reallly ties the units together visually. :thmbsp: :thmbsp: :thmbsp: for that!

Agreed that the labels didn't look good stuck on the sides like that, but since they were a part of the original, maybe you could keep them around but in a different location just to retain a little more "historical authenticity". Maybe put them in little plastic sleeves and stick them on the back or underneath, where they aren't visually obtrusive, yet are still there "for the record"? Of course it's your gear, and your choice, and it isn't really very important in the grand scheme of things.
 
The stickers have been gone for a long time. I just never updated the photos. I probably should have kept them for "historical" reasons, but they ended up in the trash.

Thanks,
Paul
 
Nice Job

really nice work and I like the timer.Hmmmm ,I have one that could use that idea.Love the matching set.I always throw away the stickers too.
 
Stickers

Paul and others,

Thanks for the replies. I have been lurking here for some time now. Great site. I appear to be reliving my youth as I have fallen into the trap of vintage audio. Purchased several receivers, speakers, and other odds and ends over the last few months. One of my purchases is an SX-1250 that plays well, but needs some serious cosmetic help. The labels on the sides and top need replacing, or removed, as they will surely detract from the units appearance if I am successful in refinishing it. For the price I paid I figure I have not much to lose with a DIY refinish job on the wood, aluminum, and top grille. Have never refinished a cabinet, but I figure it can't look much worse than it already does no matter what I do to it.

I also dabble in classic cars, and like them original. During a restoration most guys either save all of the labels and stickers on the car, or purchase reproductions, which are usually readily available. Sounds like the stereo hobby is a little different.

I will keep my eyes peeled for a source for stickers or a way to print some up. Will report back if I have any success. I will also post some photos once I get around to refinishing the unit (assuming it turns out good enough to take a photo).

Dave
 
There are plenty of folks here at AK that can can give you advice if you need some for your restoration.

And yes, do post pics. Preferrably of the before and after if possible.

Paul
 
Tuning knob removal - please help

Could use some additional help in refurbishing my SX-1250 receiver. I have cleaned and repainted the top cover and screws using brown Rustoleum hammer finish paint. Sanded the wood veneer to remove multiple scratches, refinished it, and applied wax. Cleaned the insides primarily with alcohol, a small brush, and lint free wipes. Took off the bottom cover and cleaned and polished it. I also replaced several missing screws on the bottom cover. I have cleaned most of the knobs and switches on the front face.

My problem is in getting the front face plate off to clean up the grunge behind the tuner glass and to get at the pots for cleaning. I can get all of the knobs off except for the tuning knob. The knob appears to have been replaced with a non standard Pioneer knob for the SX-1250. It is not of the set screw type. It is on the shaft so tight that I cannot budge it. It is so tight that I'm wondering if someone has glued it on. Based on a search I found a thread where someone else had the same problem with the volume knob on their SX-1980. It was suggested that they should pry the knob off using a couple of spoons, or heat the knob with a hair dryer to get it to expand on the shaft.

I don't want to pry the tuning knob as I'm pretty sure I would crack the glass faceplate. I tried heating the knob with a hair dryer, but no luck so far. I'm not sure of how much heat to apply. Is there anything I can hurt by overdoing it on the heat? Any ideas for other methods to remove the knob?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Dave
 
DaveWhitt said:
Could use some additional help in refurbishing my SX-1250 receiver. I have cleaned and repainted the top cover and screws using brown Rustoleum hammer finish paint. Sanded the wood veneer to remove multiple scratches, refinished it, and applied wax. Cleaned the insides primarily with alcohol, a small brush, and lint free wipes. Took off the bottom cover and cleaned and polished it. I also replaced several missing screws on the bottom cover. I have cleaned most of the knobs and switches on the front face.

My problem is in getting the front face plate off to clean up the grunge behind the tuner glass and to get at the pots for cleaning. I can get all of the knobs off except for the tuning knob. The knob appears to have been replaced with a non standard Pioneer knob for the SX-1250. It is not of the set screw type. It is on the shaft so tight that I cannot budge it. It is so tight that I'm wondering if someone has glued it on. Based on a search I found a thread where someone else had the same problem with the volume knob on their SX-1980. It was suggested that they should pry the knob off using a couple of spoons, or heat the knob with a hair dryer to get it to expand on the shaft.

I don't want to pry the tuning knob as I'm pretty sure I would crack the glass faceplate. I tried heating the knob with a hair dryer, but no luck so far. I'm not sure of how much heat to apply. Is there anything I can hurt by overdoing it on the heat? Any ideas for other methods to remove the knob?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Dave
Click to expand...
If your intention is to replace the knob with an original knob or a better behaved replacement, you could saw the knob off.
 
westend,

Thanks for the reply. That would be an option if I thought I could locate a new knob. Doesn't seem to be the kind of part that shows up often. Do you have any idea of a source?

Anyone have other ideas for removing the knob or answers to my heat question?

Dave
 
You could try http://www.oaktreevintage.com/

They have lots of parts available. Not sure what they have for the 1250 though.
According to the Pioneer website the SX-850, SX-950 and SX-1250 use the same tuning knob, so that should help some in your search. Hope that helps.

Paul
 
Oaktree is showing an SX-850 being parted out. Tuning knob is $30.00. Sounds like a lot of dough, but if you need one soon, the 1250 is worth it in my opinion.

He also shows a 1250 he's parting out, but wants $45.00 for the tuning knob. :headscrat

Paul
 
Paul and westend,

Thanks for the advice. Sounds like I need to warm up my Dremel tool with the cutoff wheel attached. I will be sure to post some photos once I have completed the project. The unit will not be mint, but 200% nicer than where it started.

Can't understand why someone would botch up the tuning knob on such a nice piece of equipment. Guess that's one of the reasons I got a "deal" on it.

Dave
 
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