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NAD 3020 Power Switch Source???

patfont

patfont

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Hi,
I am in need of a power switch for an NAD 3020.

Here is what is stamped on it:

TV-5
SDU 3P 113

An old thread shows a Sanyo number as the same being a SW 171 but I see no sources, any help with a replacement option would be very helpful.

Pics:



 
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The original switch has two sections: the section closer to the push button is rated for a lower current and the larger rear section is the high current section. The "TV-5" indicates that the high current section is rated at 5A (but since the 2 poles are bridged, it is effectively a 10A switch). You can replace with a single section 2-pole TV-5 switch, just match the mounting specs: should be 20mm between the mounting holes, tapped for M3 screws.
 
You can use Mouser part 612-P197SBEE to replace it, only trouble is they are out of stock. You should also replace the spark suppressor with one of these 539-104M06QC100.

The smaller red and white wires to the front section are either for "muting" or for a power supply discharge resistor. Neither are particularly useful, and early 3020s didn't have them anyway. NADs idea of muting was to run everything through a FED connected in the output of the preamp.

I'm currently rebuilding another 3020, and I will be adding a proper relay muting circuit to it. Watch the thread below as I'll probably post it there.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=460678

Lee.

P.S. If you REALLY want an original power switch, shoot me a PM. I can't guarantee it won't be as burnt out as the one you already have though. The problem wasn't the switches (which were ALPs I think, generally known for good quality), it was the cheap capacitors they put across them.
 
I believe that is the same switch being offered by another AK member on eBay, item 38062499339:

attachment.php


Little spendy at $25, but it is new.

John
 

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Hi Lee, thanks thats what I thought but the 2 other wires on the front section would be done away with then?





Leestereo said:
The original switch has two sections: the section closer to the push button is rated for a lower current and the larger rear section is the high current section. The "TV-5" indicates that the high current section is rated at 5A (but since the 2 poles are bridged, it is effectively a 10A switch). You can replace with a single section 2-pole TV-5 switch, just match the mounting specs: should be 20mm between the mounting holes, tapped for M3 screws.
Click to expand...
 
When I placed my order I was going to add that switch to the order but did not, because it was out of stock. Digikey has it in stock, so I will get one for stock next time I order. I have item # BC2361-ND (spark suppressor) in stock which I use when I replace the Marantz power switch, will this be ok to use or should I order the 539-104M06QC100? Looking forward to the addendum to your 3020 thread, which is where I got some inspiration to do mine.



leesonic said:
You can use Mouser part 612-P197SBEE to replace it, only trouble is they are out of stock. You should also replace the spark suppressor with one of these 539-104M06QC100.

The smaller red and white wires to the front section are either for "muting" or for a power supply discharge resistor. Neither are particularly useful, and early 3020s didn't have them anyway. NADs idea of muting was to run everything through a FED connected in the output of the preamp.

I'm currently rebuilding another 3020, and I will be adding a proper relay muting circuit to it. Watch the thread below as I'll probably post it there.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=460678

Lee.

P.S. If you REALLY want an original power switch, shoot me a PM. I can't guarantee it won't be as burnt out as the one you already have though. The problem wasn't the switches (which were ALPs I think, generally known for good quality), it was the cheap capacitors they put across them.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, turns out he is an AK member and for members it is 20.00, got one on the way!





jdurbin1 said:
I believe that is the same switch being offered by another AK member on eBay, item 38062499339:

attachment.php


Little spendy at $25, but it is new.

John
Click to expand...
 
patfont said:
Hi Lee, thanks thats what I thought but the 2 other wires on the front section would be done away with then?
Click to expand...

The 2 wires on the front section would still be used, but on the same terminals as the larger white wires. No problem using BC2361-ND.
 
NAD 3020 is a pretty easy rebuild: all ecaps are positive facing forward, most transistors are drop in 3 in a row solder pads and very easy to ID from solder side without flipping the unit numerous times. Most face the same direction in each channel except on the amp board and a couple other locations.

I am using Elna Silmic II in the signal path, Nichicon PW in power supply locations, and Nichicon KZ in on board filtering locations, the .68 and 1uf caps will be Wima MKS2 films.

Making a guide because I know I will be doing more then this one. Also have a Advent 300 in house I just recapped etc, will pit them head to head when done.

A couple pics:




 
Bringing back an old thread. A 3020 I'm working on has the two small wires on the front of the switch. So they would just go, one each, to the terminals on the 612-P197SBEE switch? Or can I just do away with the wires, since they don't really do much anyway, as Leesonic said?
 
Answered my own question. The 612-P197SBEE switch will not work for 3020s with the two small wires on the front of the switch. Leesonic might have told me this before, but I foolishly didn't listen.
 
Sorry to hijack this thread guys. I'm looking for a power switch and spark suppressor for my NAD 7080 receiver. Can I use the same part mentionned earlier (612-P197SBEE and 539-104M06QC100). I saw @leesonic also mentionned 611-NE1839EE in another post. Here is some pictures:
IMG_20190301_215505.jpg IMG_20190301_215512.jpg IMG_20190301_215521.jpg IMG_20190301_215527.jpg IMG_20190301_215532.jpg IMG_20190301_215537.jpg IMG_20190301_215539.jpg

Apparently @leesonic and @Leestereo really know their stuff! :)
 
Last edited:
Binkman said:
READ! Series is switch contacts rated at 10A.
Click to expand...
Ok let me explain it again! I know how to Google, find datasheet and read them! But READ, my amp is a 7080, not a 3020. So I don't know the rating of my actual switch since it's not exactly the same as the one on the 3020. Hope it's more clear for you.
 
JayPare said:
Ok let me explain it again! I know how to Google, find datasheet and read them! But READ, my amp is a 7080, not a 3020. So I don't know the rating of my actual switch since it's not exactly the same as the one on the 3020. Hope it's more clear for you.
Click to expand...
Maybe you shouldn't have posted a 7080 question in a 3020 thread. Maybe then it would be clear for everyone...
 
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