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NAD 4150 Problem

musichal

poet emeritus
My 4150 tuner seems to have a problem possibly related to the Mono/Stereo switch or associated circuitry. Sometimes now the sound is relatively clean but 'phasey' in stereo mode (and usually highly distorted), and almost no sound at all in mono - very faint; it's as if I were getting the L-R signal only, and missing the L+R. Is that possible? I De-Oxified the switch with no improvement resulting. Does anyone know of a likely culprit?

This is a digital tuner, with Schotz Noise Reduction its claim to fame, though not that special according to the TIC, and would be about 20 to 25 yrs old now. My 4130 still sounds great on strong signals, and I also have the new Sony HD, so it's not like I have to fix or replace it.

Regarding the De-Oxification: I only see a very, very small hole in the top of the switch, and can't really tell if the stuff got in there, or not. TIA for any replies.
 
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If you suspect it's in the switch , try jumping it with some leads . Thus bypassing it altogether and see if it goes away .




Barney
 
Hi Oerets. Did that. Not the switch; only two leads to it and makes contact in Mono mode, disconnects in Stereo. Checked with MM and also jumped it; does not change the problem. So the switch itself is working. In Mono mode whether by switch or by jumping, get very faint sound; when in Stereo mode, get very phasey sound. It really does seem I am somehow missing L+R; using headphones, a singer sounds like he/she in a barrel, and when announcer mixes in at end of song his/her voice very recessed. Never had a tuner do this, maybe I've been lucky 'til now?
 
Is the Led flickering ?
There might be a weak coupling cap or a bad connection on the board , never opened one so be guessing where to look first.


Barney
 
No flickering LED's, but the distortion itself could be said to be flickering intermittantly. Distortion seems to decrease significantly after unit warms up, but the missing Mono/phasey Stereo problem never changes.
 
Without knowing what's inside circuit wise ....
But if I was to guess of a place to look , it would be the IC .
Maybe someone else that's knows something about your model will be able to guide you better ...



Barney
 
Hope so, I always wanted one of these, but looks like I may have a klunker. Thanks for the input, Barney.
 
Could be something as simple as a new IC or a leaky coupling cap , but without even a circuit to look at ....




Barney
 
Okay, made some good progress since my last post. Using a stiff plastic drinking straw from DQ, and with the unit on, and headphones in place, I put a little pressure on each wire on the board hoping to find a loose connection somewhere that I could resolder. No change. Mono still greatly reduced in output; stereo still phasey - could hardly hear the announcer, but considered this a benefit given the particular station that came in strong enough for testing at the kitchen table. So wires apparently all securely soldered, which left all the little widgets, thingamajigs, and multi-legged black wafers to check.

Looked at caps, large and small, closely with magnifying glass, noting some sort of hardened reddish-brownish deposit on the lower sides of some of them. Leaking? Maybe...is that what leaking caps look like? If so they must have leaked some time ago...or is it some kinda glue or something? Damned if I know.

Disassembled unit some more to see the underside of the circuit board. Using the magnifying glass, my reading glasses, the three 60-watt lightbulbs above me, and a flashlight so I could frickin' see, I examined the area underneath those caps. Looked kinda grody, to use the technical term. That couldn't be good, I reasoned, so I grabbed a soft toothbrush and cleaned away most of the grode. Hmmm...perhaps grode can conduct electricity to the wrong places, resulting in the problems. Probably fixed now.

Reassembled the unit (still leaving the lid off, though), feeling a great deal of satisfaction in not dropping a single screw into the carpet void. Plugged it back into the preamp, reconnected the dipole, donned the 'phones, and hit the power switch for a listen. Sting stood singing right there before me; almost no distortion at all -that's better - but he had decided to keep the barrel over his head. Hit the Mono switch - very faint output, as before. Well, at least I didn't make anything worse.

Noticed I was tuned to FM station 00.00 which I had never received before in this neighborhood. Perhaps I had inadvertantly improved the tuner's DXing capabilities? Yeah, that was probably it. Feeling good about succeeding at improving at least one parameter of this unit's performance, I decided to call it a day in the area of electronics diagnosis and repair.

Replaced the lid, not losing any of those screws, either - a very professional touch, I believe. Slid the tuner deep underneath the king-sized bed alongside a cherished CD player I repaired a couple years ago. Felt I deserved a beer for a job well done; though not quite complete, progress was made, and tomorrow is another day. At bottom though, I couln't help but feel a little disappointed.

When you get right down to it, seems like that little tuner has a mind of its own - and a contrary one at that. Also seems to me that Larry Schotz should have done a better job on it in the first place; just glad HE didn't have anything to do with my 4130.

So sad to add: true story.
 
So...has anyone seen a tuner that seemed to (virtually) delete L+R before? That really does appear to be the problem with this one, and while I am obviously no electronics tech, and have tucked the thing out of sight, I am curious as to whether this is an unusual malfunction.
 
Well........found 8 IC's, wrote down numbers, searched....can't find a match on the biggest one which is a Toshiba.....don't know which does what or how to know what to replace........may put it back under the bed, safe and soundless there.
 
Sure looks like it. I think I'll order one and see if it solves the problem. Very kind of you to take the time and trouble, Barney; big thanks.
 
If you are going to replace it , I would suggest getting a IC socket for it . solder the socket down onto the board , then snap the IC into it . This will save you from having to worry about too much heat going to the chip ....
Just remember how it goes down onto the board .




Barney
 
Okay, sounds good, and thanks for that tip, too. Hope someone found my account of inspecting the tuner humorous; while it is true, I attempted to present it in a tongue-in-cheek, entertaining manner. And I do hope an mpx chip will fix it, but what did I do to that display? Probably another chip? I see one there. oh, well
 
Hope you don't mind my digging this one out and raising a question or two.

I found the thread helpful and entertaining. Thank you for the information and style.

First off, how'd it eventually go?

Question two, a working 4150 came to me with a working 3150 amplifier; I'm getting ready to fix up the 3150; and I'm debating whether to at least replace the electrolytic caps in the 4150; what do you think?
 
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