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brutal said:
This suggestion comes with a stern warning: do so at your own peril...

While I have been able to carefully remove - it peels off rather easily - the full backing without damaging the delicate tweeter wires, if I were to attempt otherwise, I would certainly spot test with a swab the same stuff we use to remove old foam and adhesive for doing new surrounds - MEK.

Cheers!
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I'm taking zilch's advice and leaving the original backing intact and applying the new over them. So a little methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) will do the job....I would imagine that acetone would also....

Great advice...I needed to go and get some Dark Walnut Restorer and some furniture oil anyway and would think that any well stocked hardware store will have all of the items.
 
Big Jim 007 said:
I'm taking zilch's advice and leaving the original backing intact and applying the new over them. So a little methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) will do the job....I would imagine that acetone would also....

Great advice...I needed to go and get some Dark Walnut Restorer and some furniture oil anyway and would think that any well stocked hardware store will have all of the items.
Click to expand...

If I have to sand away any surface scratches, I clean as much residue as possible with mineral spirits, heavy wax with alcohol, then sand through as much of the old finish and scratches as the veneer will permit. I just "re-oil" several coats with Watco Natural Danish Oil, then finish off with a little Howard's Feed-N-Wax. If you go easy on it, it doesn't really build up a waxy, glassy finish.

I think the Watco gives a little more durable finish than the linseed-turpentine mix and matches any existing oiled finish great. I've done just tops and/or bottoms and one can't tell a shade difference comparing the untouched sides.

If it's just a quick touch up, Howard's Restore-a-Finish Walnut works wonders. The JBL factory linseed-turpentine mix, is of course, the proper maintenance product.

Dry fit those foams before installing, one never knows if someone's die is off a tad...
 
brutal said:
If I have to sand away any surface scratches, I clean as much residue as possible with mineral spirits, heavy wax with alcohol, then sand through as much of the old finish and scratches as the veneer will permit. I just "re-oil" several coats with Watco Natural Danish Oil, then finish off with a little Howard's Feed-N-Wax. If you go easy on it, it doesn't really build up a waxy, glassy finish.

I think the Watco gives a little more durable finish than the linseed-turpentine mix and matches any existing oiled finish great. I've done just tops and/or bottoms and one can't tell a shade difference comparing the untouched sides.

If it's just a quick touch up, Howard's Restore-a-Finish Walnut works wonders. The JBL factory linseed-turpentine mix, is of course, the proper maintenance product.

Dry fit those foams before installing, one never knows if someone's die is off a tad...
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Are you a mind reader or what? I used Howard's restor-a-finish Walnut and it did a great job of making 90% of the scratches disappear...I then went over them with Howard's Feed-N-Wax and buffed them out about 30 minutes later and they look marvelous. The Feed-N-Wax really brought out the grain and nice lustre.

If I was totally anal, I would lightly sand them and do it right, but I really prefer the original finish and they aren't too bad now.

I agree that dry mounting the new absorption rings first to see if they are a perfect fit before permanently affixing them.

I have a clean set of badges with the lock tabs coming and next to find is a nice pair of grilles and they will be complete.

Owning vintage JBL's make one a caretaker of the flame and I welcome that responsibility.
 
They look nice and pricey, lol

Stupid question, I have them setup with the 12" drivers on the bottom which opposite of the Studio Monitors, but it sounds better to me that way. The badges attach near the tweeter, is it proper to rotate the badge/logo 180 degrees and have them on top? Sorry if this sounds so naive or should I flip the speakers 180 degrees and have the tweets on the bottom?
 
Big Jim 007 said:
Stupid question, I have them setup with the 12" drivers on the bottom which opposite of the Studio Monitors but it sounds better to me that way. The badges attach near the tweeter, is it proper to rotate the badge/logo 180 degrees and have them on top? Sorry if this sounds so naive or should I flip the speakers 180 degrees and have the tweets on the bottom?
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They're not Studio Monitors (and never were,) rather, Control Monitors, intended for nearfield use sitting on the control console in front of the engineer, and thus the tweeters are on the bottom in the intended use of the equivalent 4311.

Practically no one uses them that way at home, inverting them on short stands, instead, with the tweeter at the top. They measure better on-axis with the woofer, actually and if you look closely at the Maxell poster, I believe the tweeter's on the floor.... :p:

Note also that in the intended use, there is no boundary reinforcement. That's why the bass was "enhanced." Typically, we place them backed up to a wall, or worse, in a corner, and turn that into the artificial, boomy bass characteristic of the West Coast genre. I have elsewhere described how to mitigate that, if desired....
 
Zilch said:
They're not Studio Monitors (and never were,) rather, Control Monitors, intended for nearfield use sitting on the control console in front of the engineer, and thus the tweeters are on the bottom in the intended use of the equivalent 4311.

Practically no one uses them that way at home, inverting them on short stands, instead, with the tweeter at the top. They measure better on-axis with the woofer, actually and if you look closely at the Maxell poster, I believe the tweeter's on the floor.... :p:

Note also that in the intended use, there is no boundary reinforcement. That's why the bass was "enhanced." Typically, we place them backed up to a wall, or worse, in a corner, and turn that into the boomy bass characteristic of the West Coast genre. I have elsewhere described how to mitigate that, if desired....
Click to expand...

True, Control Monitors...and I'm glad that I'm using them correctly...I love bass, but not boomy or false and I don't have them in the corners, nor near walls...they are about 4 feet off the walls and I went old school and am using some plastic 2 liter Pespi stacking crates with Auralab Speaker Isolation Platforms on top that really tightens up the bass. This set up gets the mids and highs at a perfect focal point to my ears.

I will attempt to post a picture of my set-up tomorrow.
 
stereo.jpg


The other speakers in the poorly shot picture are a pair of Canton Sub's (Plus C), a pair of Canton Plus F Sat's, and a just found pair of PSB Alpha's...on the floor are a pair of Infinity Qe's and a pair of recently found AR 8b's.
 
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