Need advice, smaller size caps for KLH 5 (circuitboard version)

[tyella]

Bob,
Thanks for your comments. I've used poly caps in three other speaker recaps. In this case, because of the circuitboard and having to stack, I think smaller lytics are a good option. Will see what they cost. I plan on keeping these speakers, but watching budget also.

I've changed out the screw/nut bindings posts for five ways, on my Advents. But here, going the keep them. Iwill likely use some 90° spade to female banana adapters, I like, found on the bay. My speaker wires are like a rock, scissors, paper game. Only it's spade, pin and banana ends. Mating to banana, screw/nut or spring clip posts when switching speakers out.

You can solder a washer to the end of your speaker wire and thread it under the knurled nut. That'll help keep the darn thing from slipping off.

And regarding electrolytic caps: Electrolytics are cheap, especially compared to poly caps. If you're going to be playing with speakers for a while, consider ordering 10 of any electrolytic cap you buy. The price per unit goes down about 25% at a quantity of 10, and then you have some on hand for other projects.

 

[Old Guy8]

Do I dare to deviate from the uf rating of caps cause of availability, room? All replacement lytics would be 10° tolerance.
3uf replace with 2.7 or 3.3uf?
16uf replace with 15 or 17uf?
25uf replace with 22uf? Or just stack 10+15uf in parallel.
Tried three sources.
The correct uf rating caps are available in poly 250v to 400v ratings for about $75.
Just have to make a decision, and act.
thanks for comments.

 

[GD70]

Do I dare to deviate from the uf rating of caps cause of availability, room? All replacement lytics would be 10° tolerance.
3uf replace with 2.7 or 3.3uf?
16uf replace with 15 or 17uf?
25uf replace with 22uf? Or just stack 10+15uf in parallel.
Tried three sources.
The correct uf rating caps are available in poly 250v to 400v ratings for about $75.
Just have to make a decision, and act.
thanks for comments.

Within 10 % is usually ok, but I try to get as close to original ratings as possible.

 

[Old Guy8]

Within 10 % is usually ok, but I try to get as close to original ratings as possible.

I got the correct original ratings. By electrolitic caps combined for larger caps. And poly caps for smaller. The lytics helped tame the bill.
I sometimes overthink things. Worked out. Thanks for info.

Also going to try Parts Express speaker gasketing tape 1/8"x1/2" to seal woofers, replacing the tired old white foam.
For anyone in future with Fives to recap, with shipping the caps were about $30 from Parts Express. Add $9.25 for thier gasket tape. I'll note later how it works for me. (no affiliation to PE)
In case I forget later, The two mid drivers are in thier own chambers to isolate from woofer chamber. Thier wires enter as shown in pic. Should check that those cork stoppers are making a good seal to protect mids. Use some sealant if needed. As conveyed to me, If pressing on the woofer of assembled unit makes the mids move at all, sign of air leak to mid chamber.
BTW, as I have read elsewhere, the 5's have mesh cloth separating fiberglass from crossover and woofer. The mids in this pic are not originals.

 

[GD70]

I got the correct original ratings. By electrolitic caps combined for larger caps. And poly caps for smaller. The lytics helped tame the bill.
I sometimes overthink things. Worked out.
Also going to try Parts Express speaker gasketing tape 1/8"x1/2" to seal woofers.
thanks for info.

Great. I'll be watching your thread and pics!

 

[spkrdtr]

Here are mine after recap. Hope it helps.
View attachment 864269 View attachment 864270

They look like a couple I've done in the past. Just stack the caps.
I'd show a pic, but am having trouble uploading pics these days to AK.

 

[Old Guy8]

They look like a couple I've done in the past. Just stack the caps.
I'd show a pic, but am having trouble uploading pics these days to AK.

Thanks for response. Besides c5corvettes, found some good pics at classicspeakerpages. Even one with caps removed, and orientations marked on board. I'll take before pics and mark leads. Think I'm ok for now.