Need help to point me to correct capacitor please.

[doug76712]

I'm wanting to replace the capacitor in a Norman Labs Model 7. Can anyone identify the correct capacitor I need based off of this photo?

 

[doug76712]

I found another picture of a Model 7 capacitor and it was branded Temple. Looking up a Temple 203 cap I see someone identified it as an 8uF which sounds more like it. However, I then saw Temple 203 in 4uF and 12uF. I wanted to leave the old caps in there so as not to risk cracking the masonite prying it off but I guess I need to get it off and see what else is written on it?

 

[Oerets]

It is hot glued down right now. See if it can be loosened up and the backside exposed. Then see if more info can be found.

 

[StimpyWan]

I found another picture of a Model 7 capacitor and it was branded Temple. Looking up a Temple 203 cap I see someone identified it as an 8uF which sounds more like it. Still as unsure as I was though.

I also found a Temple 203, with a 2uF value...! So, more investigation is in order.

Plus, those Temple capacitors are crap. Cut it out, and get the correct value, and replace it. Easy.

 

[Oerets]

Also you should look at both of the pair and see.

 

[doug76712]

Unfortunately both speakers show the exact same writing as they're positioned the same. I guess I'll try to get one free and see what else is written on it.

 

[goodolpg]

It is hot glued down right now. See if it can be loosened up and the backside exposed. Then see if more info can be found.

What he said, numbers are probably visible from a different angle.

 

[doug76712]

Well, I'm sorry to have wasted everyone's time. I thought the hot glue would be stubborn but it turned loose easily and I was able to rotate the cap. It's a 5uf.

 

[crazy-in-az]

Well, I'm sorry to have wasted everyone's time. I thought the hot glue would be stubborn but it turned loose easily and I was able to rotate the cap. It's a 5uf.

Eh, happens all the time.

 

[F1nut]

Well, I'm sorry to have wasted everyone's time. I thought the hot glue would be stubborn but it turned loose easily and I was able to rotate the cap. It's a 5uf.

Don't forget to upgrade the crappy block resistor.

 

[bimasta]

Don't forget to upgrade the crappy block resistor.

Upgrade to what?

 

[goodolpg]

Well, I'm sorry to have wasted everyone's time. I thought the hot glue would be stubborn but it turned loose easily and I was able to rotate the cap. It's a 5uf.

You didn't waste my time, happy to help, as I think most in this thread were as well.
Those black caps with red ends from that time period are said to be notorious for needing to be replaced.

 

[birchoak]

Wasting our time? Ha ha, we live for this stuff, my friend. I'm sure you already know this but I'm pretty sure that's a bipolar (aka NP, BP) cap. F1nut is right, as long as you're in there replace those old resistors---I'll let him advise you on what to use.

 

[F1nut]

Upgrade to what?

A few good choices are Mills, Mundorf, Duelund or Path.

 

[doug76712]

I have very limited electronic circuitry knowledge, but grasp the basic concepts. I can manage a solder joint and switch out components, but I won't be modifying or designing any crossovers anytime soon. I don't mind if I'm removing and replacing one item or three, but once I'm in there, I certainly want to do it right so as to get the most benefit in performance. I've just started gathering parts and intend to re-cap a half dozen pairs of 40 to 50 year old speakers.

Is the suggestion that resistors should always be replaced along with capacitors? Or are these particular resistors suspect? Do the values on resistors have to remain exact, or can a 5 ohm 5 watt be replaced with a 5 ohm 10 watt?

As usual, any guidance is appreciated.

 

[F1nut]

Those 5 cent resistors should always be replaced with ones of higher quality. Mills are cheap enough that they won't break anyone's bank. You can always go up in wattage, but the ohms value should remain the same as stock.