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'New' Altec Valencias join the collection

I would say all the diaphragms are worth saving if you can fix them. I tried to fix my x-wifes once, whoops, another kid. lol

Me, Dave and You makes 6 drivers, unless Zilch wants 2.
 
I've already stated that I'm gonna try the BMS drivers(one day).
The shipping from the US would cost more than the drivers.
I'll look for their representatives out here in Ozzie-land.
Meanwhile,back to the lorikeet poop. :D
 
dgwojo:

I see you've said in other Altec/Valencia threads you felt that the original phragms were worth saving, if they had broken leads?
Does this apply to all Altec original driver phragms or only some of the rarer model ones?
I can only repair the old style phragm suspension leads, those style are worth saving.

Altec_604_8G_Diaphragm_23744_B.jpg
 
Make that 6 please!!:thmbsp:

dgwojo:

I see you've said in other Altec/Valencia threads you felt that the original phragms were worth saving, if they had broken leads?
Does this apply to all Altec original driver phragms or only some of the rarer model ones?

If someone is setting up a "Group Buy", then count me in for 2... Like to try them.
 
What differentiates old style from new? And what would the original phragms in 806-8A's be considered?
The new style have push-on connection lugs and the suspension wires are much larger, I have yet to see a suspension lead burn-out on one these, instead, the coil gets destroyed. Blown new style phragms can go back to Bill at GPA for rebuild, they probably won't give you anything for them as they have to un-sandwich them to remove all the adhesives before rebuild. The 26420 phragm that was offered by Electro-Voice was also not repairable, it was made by Radian. Dave.

New style;
Altec_35480_34647_03.jpg


Old style;
Altec_23744_03.jpg


Radian and Altec, side by side, just the lugs were different;
Altec_26420_Radian_1228-8_01.jpg
 
Hi Dave

Dave, As you probably know I now have Mike's (Chicago Mike blazatrl) Valencia's in my living room. Nice work on those crossovers! Beautiful speakers, thanks for the tip, Greg (Amsoil dealer)
 
What to do?

I started this thread about a pair of Valencias tha tI picked up and it seems to have accumulated some leftover action from previous Valencia threads. That's cool, as the information has been useful to me. I spent 90 minutes yesterday reading through some of the previous threads here and on the LHS.
It looks like there are a number of approaches adopted by people according to their individual needs, ranging from reproducing the stock crossover and calling it good to changing the drivers, cabinet and crossover and using DSP to equalize. I'm likely to go with a simpler strategy. I'll keep the stock drivers. A new crossover with original component values will be built, although I'm considering a higher crossover point, and a reproduction M19 crossover is a distant possibility. I do have a Rane AC22 active xovr, but I don't want to dedicate that to one speaker system, as I use it for a lot of things.
As for the bass performance, I don't think I'm going to get the kind of bass output from these that I need in this room, which is 900 SF and quite dead. The room is a bass eater. I think the best plan is to use one or more powered subs. I've been experimenting with that with a crossover around 70 HZ and the results are promising. I'm not a bass freak, but the Valencias are too light below 100 HZ in here and no DSP or crossover mods are going to fix that without substantial compromises elsewhere.
Since I won't be going for ultimate bass from these cabinets, changing the porting is not necessary. The only change I'll make is when I have the backs off to change the crossovers I'll add some damping to the horn to prevent ringing.
I think that will give me the most benefit while leaving the important aspects stock or returnable to stock.
 
Dave, As you probably know I now have Mike's (Chicago Mike blazatrl) Valencia's in my living room. Nice work on those crossovers! Beautiful speakers, thanks for the tip, Greg (Amsoil dealer)

I'm glad they found a good home, yes those crossovers were a trip to re-build, Mike took care of me very well so it was very worth my while! :yes:

Altec_N800-8K_01.jpg


Altec_N800-8K_03.jpg
 
Hey Guys, are we going to try the BMS driver buy or what? Let me know and I will make the call to see if we can get a discount. I think we are at 8 drivers now and want to confirm that with everyone.
 
Hey Guys, are we going to try the BMS driver buy or what? Let me know and I will make the call to see if we can get a discount. I think we are at 8 drivers now and want to confirm that with everyone.

I'm in for two BMS 4550 drivers!!! Zilch mentioned a guy named Jack is who should be contacted at Assistance Audio, hopefully his last name isn't OFF? :scratch2: Assistance Audio
 
BMS 4550 Drivers - Assistance Audio - NO ASSISTANCE!!

Hillman and I tried reaching this Utah business for a couple weeks, no response whatsoever from them via telephone and e-mails. While we patiently wait, I picked up a pair of Selenium drivers from PE, the $25 deal of the day. As usual, Parts Express service is the best, 1st they allowed me to substitute a bolt-on driver instead of the screw-on that was on special since I'm using Altec 511B and 811B horns, 2nd, shipping was free for $99+ orders, 3rd - they used UPS instead of the free DHL service, 4th, it was at my door the very next day, guys, this is the way business should be done!! Make sure when ordering from PE that you use the link form Audiokarma, it's the right thing to do!!! :yes: Kudo's to Kim Nickell at Parts Express, here's the response I received from her on my e-mail request for bolt-on instead of threaded drivers that were on special, please understand that the bolt-on version (264-236) was not on sale, the threaded version 264-235 was. I'm not trying to encourage part substitutions on orders as they have a really streamlined order processing system and this causes a major exception, but I am trying to recognize the level of service PE offers, Dave. :thmbsp:

BTW - This was the best $50 I spent in a long time, they sound perfect for my portable Altecs!!

Specs; D210Ti PDF

264-236L.jpg






Hello-

Thank you for contacting Parts Express. Due to your excellent and longtime history
with us we are will to honor your request. The change has been made and your order
has since processed for shipment. You can expect delivery by Christmas Eve, if not
sooner.

Thank you so much for your loyal business! Please let me know if I can be of further
service.

Happy Holidays!

Kim Nickell
Parts Express
Customer Service Representative
1/800-338-0531
 
Broken lead repair

I have a non-functioning 806-8a. Was thinking of buying a phragm and soldering the leads. I've heard the lead soldering is an art. The solder joint needs to have the bend of the original lead and tends to fail fairly quickly. Worth the effort vs. $$$$ in my little world.

I've done a couple of repairs to Altec diaphragms. I take a couple of emery boards (the kind used for fingernails), one is used to 'back' one side of the lead to prevent bending/ rocking it back and forth, the other is used to carefully sand off the coating on the lead (very slow and carefully).
I then take an EXACTO knife with a new blade, and while backing the lead with an emery board, carefully scrape a small portion of the broken end of the lead until you see that the metal is clean.
All you need to prep is a very small portion of the broken lead ends, just enough to make a solder joint.
I then take a very low-watt pencil type soldering iron and tin the prepped ends.
Using the other (dull side) of the EXACTO knife blade as a tool to 'push' and 'align' one broken lead end over to the other, 'loaded' soldering iron at the ready in the other hand, I bring the two ends together, and if you're fairly proficient with with an iron, you should be able to 'touch' the iron to the joined leads and have a good connection/joint.
You must not, and cannot keep the iron on for more than a couple of seconds.
I actually left the 'phragm in the body of the 802-8G, and made a small 'thing-a-ma-jig' to allow the body to rest 'phragm side up & flat on my table, to allow for the fixed horn to driver threaded studs to rest in. Seemed to work well.
The thing metered out just fine afterwards, and played as well as the other one.
I got a bargain with the last 802-8G's I purchased off epay. I could see the broken lead in the pictures and paid about $125.00+ S/H for the pair.
Sold them with the understanding that the lead had been repaired for an astonishing $350.00!
EXACTO knives are made of aluminum for the most part (except the blades), so they do not get 'pulled into the diaphragm' by magnetic attraction, should you leave it in the body, as I did while repairing. The soldering iron will though, so just be aware of this possiblity.
 
Yes, Good deal Dave. I made 5 Calls to Assistance Audio with no replys. US Speaker said they would give a 5% discount. I am still going to get a set.
 
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