• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

New project: Micro Seiki DDX-1000 overhaul

Mr. Yamaha

Mr. Yamaha

Not so much Yamaha lately...
I wanted a Micro Seiki DDX-1000 or a DQX-1000 for a long time, but it was always a bit above budget. But, as the hobby grows, the need to upgrade grows as well as many of you may know :D So I decided to sell my Yamaha YP-D8 en went looking for a Micro Seiki. Not very easy to locate one in the Netherlands, but eventually I found one.

71 years old guy, first owner and he said it was in pristine condition. When I visited the guy, the DDX-1000 looked to be in good condition. It came with the MA-707 tonearm and an AX-1 armbase. He also threw in a cartridge with according to him a new NOS needle. I'm not really familiar with the cart: an Empire 2000E III.

We negotiated a bit and came to a fair price.

Known problems:
  • Strobe does not work.
  • All three feet rubber cushions are shot (common problem).
I opened this baby up and found out it hadn't be opened ever, so that's great. I was shocked to see one half opened electrolytic cap in the power supply. Some overhauling is needed here.

Plans:
  • Thorough cleaning (done).
  • Replace all electrolytic caps and Zeners (parts ordered).
  • Replace the neon bulb (ordered different kinds).
  • New bearing cap + spindle oil.
  • Replace the feet rubber cushions (ordered).
  • Adjust everything to factory specs.
And then :music:

Some pictures:

IMG_7252.jpg IMG_7259.jpg IMG_7260.jpg IMG_7261.jpg IMG_7263.jpg IMG_7265.jpg IMG_7266.jpg IMG_7267.jpg IMG_7273.jpg
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Beautiful! Thrust plate is what the platter shaft rides on. That round plate with screws in the 4th and 5th photos.
 
You might be able to get a rider weight machined for less than a replacement would cost. And faster, too.
The one I had had corrosion, and there is nothing the normal person can do to fix that, so I congratulate you on finding such a lovely one.
And you are better informed about the value of the arm bases than I was -- I gave a couple of them away. OOPS!
 
Also bought one a couple of years ago from a 1 owner, with the same tonearm. Been in the original box for the last three years. Hoping to get it set back up soon. Thanks for sharing this with us.

What did you do about the original rubber feet?

I noticed that you are not using the sliding tone arm weight?

What did you replace the original Caps with?
 
restorer-john said:
What condition was the thrust plate BTW?
Click to expand...

cdk99 said:
Beautiful! Thrust plate is what the platter shaft rides on. That round plate with screws in the 4th and 5th photos.
Click to expand...

I named that the bearing cap :p

Looks to be in great shape, there was plenty of oil in it. I dismantled the motor, removed the old oil, cleaned everything and put new v/d Hul Spindle oil in it. There's no play in the motor.

I struggled a while with getting the rotor out, but the solution was very simple: desolder the two wires on the frequency board en then the rotor can be taken out.

IMG_7390.jpg

IMG_7391.jpg

IMG_7392.jpg

IMG_7395.jpg

IMG_7398.jpg

IMG_7400.jpg
 
Hobie1dog said:
Also bought one a couple of years ago from a 1 owner, with the same tonearm. Been in the original box for the last three years. Hoping to get it set back up soon. Thanks for sharing this with us.

What did you do about the original rubber feet?

I noticed that you are not using the sliding tone arm weight?

What did you replace the original Caps with?
Click to expand...

I replaced the rubber cushions with Vibrapods Model 3, really great and cheap solution. They cost € 35 per 4 and they fit perfectly in the original feet. You only need three slightly longer bolts.

Pictures (I forgot to take one of them installed in the feet):

IMG_7383.jpg

IMG_7384.jpg

IMG_7385.jpg

IMG_7386.jpg

IMG_7387.jpg

IMG_7388.jpg

IMG_7408.jpg

IMG_7409.jpg

I will use Nichicon FG caps and 1 Nichicon PW cap for a high voltage position.
 
Last edited:
Mr. Yamaha said:
I wanted a Micro Seiki DDX-1000 or a DQX-1000 for a long time, but it was always a bit above budget. But, as the hobby grows, the need to upgrade grows as well as many of you may know :D So I decided to sell my Yamaha YP-D8 en went looking for a Micro Seiki. Not very easy to locate one in the Netherlands, but eventually I found one.

71 years old guy, first owner and he said it was in pristine condition. When I visited the guy, the DDX-1000 looked to be in good condition. It came with the MA-707 tonearm and two arm bases: an AX-1 and a AX-2 (for SME). Those three items are worth some good money by them selves alone, so it was nice to see them included. He also threw in a cartridge with according to him a new NOS needle. I'm not really familiar with the cart: an Empire 2000E III.

We negotiated a bit and came to a fair price.

Known problems:
  • Strobe does not work.
  • One black pole cap is missing.
  • All three feet rubber cushions are shot (common problem).
  • The dynamic sliding weight of the MA-707 tonearm is missing.
  • The extra counterweight of the tonearm is missing.
  • Finger lever of the headshell was glued on (and broke off at home :confused:)
  • One bolt is broken off in the AX-2 tone arm base.
I opened this baby up and found out it hadn't be opened ever, so that's great. I was shocked to see one half opened electrolytic cap in the power supply. Some overhauling is needed here.

Plans:
  • Thorough cleaning (done).
  • Replace all electrolytic caps and Zeners (parts ordered).
  • Replace the neon bulb (ordered different kinds).
  • New bearing cap + spindle oil.
  • Try to find the missing parts of the tonearm (that's going to be very hard).
  • Replace the feet rubber cushions (ordered).
  • Adjust everything to factory specs.
And then :music:

Some pictures:

View attachment 1016983 View attachment 1016984 View attachment 1016985 View attachment 1016986 View attachment 1016987 View attachment 1016988 View attachment 1016989 View attachment 1016991 View attachment 1016992
Click to expand...


Why do you call this condition "good". I would rather use word "poor" describing it.

It is well worth restoring though.
 
for p1: what do you call poor? The general condition, or the bearing. You must have very high standards since both seem quite good to me. Certainly the general condition is probably better than the one I had - never took the bearing apart so can't comment on that other than uninformed opinion. Of which I have plenty...
 
for_p1 said:
Why do you call this condition "good". I would rather use word "poor" describing it.

It is well worth restoring though.
Click to expand...
Poor? I’m talking about the overall condition, which is good for a 40 years old turntable. It has no damages. It needed some standard tune up, cleaning, recap, new spindle oil, a new neon lamp and new feet inserts. No big deal at all :naughty:
 
Mr. Yamaha said:
Poor? I’m talking about the overall condition, which is good for a 40 years old turntable. It has no damages. It needed some standard tune up, cleaning, recap, new spindle oil, a new neon lamp and new feet inserts. No big deal at all :naughty:
Click to expand...

My rating scale is just skewed with what I bought and what I see available for sale at Japanese sites. When table just needs surface wiping or (in worst case) applying wax to veneer to look and work just like new 40 years ago.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom