New SX-1980 PS
- Thread starter Hasty1
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hrballenger
Well-Known Member
That member is TxTurbo, I believe.
I saw it listed on eBay.
If you want to keep it OEM then EW
If you want to repair it your self then get the board. With your skills you should be able to complete the repair.
I don't think the new board will detract from the value as the new board is well done. You'll still have the original board that can be reinstalled once repaired.
The costs are probably equal.
If you want to keep it OEM then EW
If you want to repair it your self then get the board. With your skills you should be able to complete the repair.
I don't think the new board will detract from the value as the new board is well done. You'll still have the original board that can be reinstalled once repaired.
The costs are probably equal.
The board was discussed heavily here on AK and designed with a lot of input from members such as Mark and myself. All the things that we did not like about the original were addressed (relays, current sources, heatsinking, adjustable +/-80V, axial vs radial caps, etc). Installing this board makes the PS in the 1980 about as reliable as it's ever gonna get (which should be a considerable step-up from the stock unit). It isn't cheap, but if I had a 1980 that I wanted to keep for the long haul, it's a no-brainer. Worth the asking price in every way.
Know that the installation will still be a chore and not something that should be attempted by a novice.
Know that the installation will still be a chore and not something that should be attempted by a novice.
2nd EW's comments. The 1980 really really likes this board. Stable voltages, runs much cooler with the outboard mounting of transistors, looks professional (and classy when installed neatly). also note the comment above about installing it, not a novice level DIY.
If he ends up with a new TxTurbo power supply board, I would be interested in the original power supply board. (especially rather than trashing it).
But he does have me wondering about that 3 year old "recap" job - ESPECIALLY in respect to the failure that occurred (and the what / why / how of the failure).
That is because we have been too sloppy about the language of what we do and what we call it. Like "recapping" that includes far more than just electrolytic capacitors.
But he does have me wondering about that 3 year old "recap" job - ESPECIALLY in respect to the failure that occurred (and the what / why / how of the failure).
That is because we have been too sloppy about the language of what we do and what we call it. Like "recapping" that includes far more than just electrolytic capacitors.
That was fun.
The lamp is a walk in the park compared to replacing the PS.
I think you have what it takes but you will have to keep us informed so you don't get over your head.
The actual replacement might be strait forward but the start up procedures and setting the amps up can be complicated for a first timer.
If there's other issues - other than the PS, it could lead you into trouble, quickly.
On second though you better have someone with expertise sort it out for you.
If you had a little more experience under your belt it might be possible.
The lamp is a walk in the park compared to replacing the PS.
I think you have what it takes but you will have to keep us informed so you don't get over your head.
The actual replacement might be strait forward but the start up procedures and setting the amps up can be complicated for a first timer.
If there's other issues - other than the PS, it could lead you into trouble, quickly.
On second though you better have someone with expertise sort it out for you.
If you had a little more experience under your belt it might be possible.
re: other issues, yes, that was my concern. WHY the power supply was stressed to death. It IS possible, if the original jfet current sources remained, that they were the first link in the chain. That's why I spoke of a "looseness" of descriptive language. Are / were the original semiconductors in use or were current sources added during the "recapping". The CRUX of the matter.
HOWEVER, starting up with the power amps disconnected might help - no draw on the +80 and -80 volt lines.
Then FIRST thing to do is check the power draws, reading across various resistors.
HOWEVER, starting up with the power amps disconnected might help - no draw on the +80 and -80 volt lines.
Then FIRST thing to do is check the power draws, reading across various resistors.
Yea new modern one like the one shown in your link. Thx for the help. Wonder if anyone on AK has bought from him and how's the product? Altho his ratings is 100% positive so most prob is reliable I guess
