mprince
Super Member
I'd be more concerned with the impact of a heavy weight on the suspension and the bearing. Its impact on speed is probably small. I'd think the belt would solve the speed issues.
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New Thorens TD 145 Arrived!
- Thread starter bscepter
- Start date
bscepter
Active Member
yeah, I might just ditch the weight. I wonder how much of that is just snake oil anyway.
Isaac C.
Cat Hoarder
Mine runs a bit fast too, but now that I got my direct drive table setup, I'm not too worried. I'll eventually get a new belt as well.
Did the alignment, antiskate, tracking force and vertical tracking angle seem pretty close?
Same problem with mine. It doesn't grab very well at all. I leave the cue up when the arm is in the rest, it holds it against the top and helps to keep it in position.
bscepter
Active Member
I checked everything before running, and it was pretty good out of the box. I just had to adjust the tracking force. That was it.
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
The weight will put a bit more on the bearing, a rounded ball on the end of the spindle holding up the platter. They are not snake oil but the center weight is harder to hear the improvement compared to using both the center and peripheral weight. That combo made a big difference when I was using them.
The weight is not contributing to the speed issue. You have solved your speed issue with a new part, installed when it arrives. Read the manual on how to use the new belt.
Some folks can be really bothered by a very slight speed inaccuracy. Best to get gear that runs the right speed and that belt will solve the problem.
Did you clean the spindle well out and relube it? Of course there are more steps if you want to go there, new thrust plate (small disc put in the bottom of the well. Not needed if your unit is in good shape.
The weight is not contributing to the speed issue. You have solved your speed issue with a new part, installed when it arrives. Read the manual on how to use the new belt.
Some folks can be really bothered by a very slight speed inaccuracy. Best to get gear that runs the right speed and that belt will solve the problem.
Did you clean the spindle well out and relube it? Of course there are more steps if you want to go there, new thrust plate (small disc put in the bottom of the well. Not needed if your unit is in good shape.
bscepter
Active Member
I don’t even know what that means!
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
Once you roll over to www.theanalogdept.com> Thorens Dept. you will see on page one a 124 platter and support spindle diagram.
But you are interested in the TD-160 Dept to look over the maintenance, upgrades and tuning information. Good to learn before you dive in. Read over the pages and maybe put a bit more into the belt change to make the unit like new for you. Between now and belt arrival enjoy the tunes and do your research to see if you care to upgrade you machine a bit or do some routine maintenance on it.
But you are interested in the TD-160 Dept to look over the maintenance, upgrades and tuning information. Good to learn before you dive in. Read over the pages and maybe put a bit more into the belt change to make the unit like new for you. Between now and belt arrival enjoy the tunes and do your research to see if you care to upgrade you machine a bit or do some routine maintenance on it.
bscepter
Active Member
Thanks. Will do!
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
The TD-160 Super came from the public and magazine tweaks being made to the TD-160. Sound deadening here and there, thick bottom instead of a piece of hardboard and other things. Thorens said, Hey that does make it better, we can build that and charge a bit more for it. I don't know how far along the upgrade path the 145 sits so that's up to you to see if your machine has the goods or needs em. Remember, folks have been and are still using TD models that have never been tuned, oiled, upgraded or whatever and many of them are happy. You can do what you want, listen for a while then do a winter project and see if you enjoy the difference or throw it all into the mix right now. Enjoy the journey.
Gonna piggy-back on this thread because by coincidence my new TD165 arrived yesterday and I'm already hard at work researching everywhere and trying to source minor parts. Unlike the OP I was a bottom feeder and got mine on the cheap. First order of business is to order a cartridge so I can figure out if it even puts sound out. Considering the A-T
VM520EB atm. Then the anti-skate apparatus probably, which is as weird as anything I've seen in awhile. The seller advised me to consider a Grace 707 but I really like the Thorens headshell design so I want to keep that if it's practical to do so. If I can replace the arm with a new Thorens arm, though, that might be an attractive option.
Question if I may: how can I determine which version I have? Mk1 or Mk2 etc.
This has implications w/r/t tonearm mass and hence cartridge compliance.
Here's the number tag if it'll help. TIA
VM520EB atm. Then the anti-skate apparatus probably, which is as weird as anything I've seen in awhile. The seller advised me to consider a Grace 707 but I really like the Thorens headshell design so I want to keep that if it's practical to do so. If I can replace the arm with a new Thorens arm, though, that might be an attractive option.
Question if I may: how can I determine which version I have? Mk1 or Mk2 etc.
This has implications w/r/t tonearm mass and hence cartridge compliance.
Here's the number tag if it'll help. TIA
bscepter
Active Member
Doesn't it actually say so on the product name? Yours looks like a MKI, in that case.
Thanks, that's what I'm thinking, though I haven't been able to confirm.
Seems like the MkII has rear hinges, inter alia. Mine are on the side.
Have read dozens of threads on the topic since last night, and this one came awfully close to supplying the information I'm seeking, but still no cigar. Itching to get a cart that'll just work for now, then on to really improving things.
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
@Archguy
Yes the 165 came with a removable headshell and the -II and -III versions had removable arm wands.
I would get the manual for that table the TD-165 and follow the instructions on setting up a cartridge, anti-skate being one step. Try to decipher the intent of Thorens when moving the weight on both the hook and the pivot point grooves. manual is on theanalogdept and probably other sites.
Yes the 165 came with a removable headshell and the -II and -III versions had removable arm wands.
I would get the manual for that table the TD-165 and follow the instructions on setting up a cartridge, anti-skate being one step. Try to decipher the intent of Thorens when moving the weight on both the hook and the pivot point grooves. manual is on theanalogdept and probably other sites.
tnsilver
Stereo Puppy
If the model number isn't followed by a mark - it's a mark 1. Another tell tale sign is the tonearm. If it got a couple of rods for the weight on string anti-skate - it's a TP-11. If it got a dial for the magnetic AS, it's a TP-16. If it's the classic TP-60 flat wide headshell - it's a Mk-I. If it's a two part tonearm, it's not a Mk-I but rather one of the II, III or later with the TP-62 or TP-63 wands. The last image shows a TP-62 wand on a TP-16 Mk-II tonearm with the silver knob for the magnetic AS and obviously, no rods.