Nikko NR-1019 - cleaning a relay
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45rpm
Cassette Nut
I have before...but the channel cuts out suddenly, and sounds fine before it does.
Mine doesn't have scratchy potentiometers, as far as I know. And I'm not touching any switches or dials when the channel goes out.
You're missing the point: The goal is to wait until the channel is lost, then attempt to discover which switch is 'dirty' by operating them until you find the one which brings the missing channel back. Working the switches temporarily scrubs the contact surfaces clean and should allow you to determine which one(s) are causing trouble.
45rpm
Cassette Nut
I kept a close eye on the output meters as it was running.
45rpm
Cassette Nut
It's really simple.
When I have speakers connected, the right channel does not work. It does not matter how many times I work various buttons and switches back and forth.
When I do not have speakers connected, the right channel does work.
Apparently, when I have speakers hooked up to both the "A" and "B" inputs, the "B" speakers do not work on either channel.
Please help.
When I have speakers connected, the right channel does not work. It does not matter how many times I work various buttons and switches back and forth.
When I do not have speakers connected, the right channel does work.
Apparently, when I have speakers hooked up to both the "A" and "B" inputs, the "B" speakers do not work on either channel.
Please help.
45rpm
Cassette Nut
With headphones inserted and speakers connected, only the left channel of the headphones works.
With headphones inserted and no speakers connected, the same result occurs.
My guess is that something is wrong with the output, and not just the speakers...
I'd be checking the emitter resistors for the drivers and outputs, and the devices themselves as well. I dunno what this uses for outputs, but if they're socketed TO-3's, I'd swap 'em from side to side after checking them out with a meter.
There's an original service manual on eBay right now... #281116305749
There's an original service manual on eBay right now... #281116305749
You need to be able to find your way around the receiver...that's what the manual is for (and since many Nikko manuals are tough to find, even if YOU don't do the work and pass it on to a tech to do it for you, HE'LL probably need it).
Since the schematic is nowhere on line that I can find, it's tough to tell you where to begin. Anyone here at AK is flying blind in any attempt to help.
Ideal tools are: Scope, signal generator, trustworthy DMM with minigrabber leads, and dummy loads. No one expects you to load up on test gear to troubleshoot one receiver, but it also means that the best solution would be to get the receiver to someone who already HAS these tools.
But if you love the receiver and eventually would like to see it fixed, grab the service manual before someone else does.
Since the schematic is nowhere on line that I can find, it's tough to tell you where to begin. Anyone here at AK is flying blind in any attempt to help.
Ideal tools are: Scope, signal generator, trustworthy DMM with minigrabber leads, and dummy loads. No one expects you to load up on test gear to troubleshoot one receiver, but it also means that the best solution would be to get the receiver to someone who already HAS these tools.
But if you love the receiver and eventually would like to see it fixed, grab the service manual before someone else does.
Sorry...I missed this.
It's hard to say what it might cost. For one, we don't have a solid handle on a problem description, so it's anybody's guess right now. I wish I knew of an AK tech close to you so we could get it on a bench and see what is going on, but I'm drawing a blank. Might consider starting another thread asking about any trustworthy techs in your area.
It's hard to say what it might cost. For one, we don't have a solid handle on a problem description, so it's anybody's guess right now. I wish I knew of an AK tech close to you so we could get it on a bench and see what is going on, but I'm drawing a blank. Might consider starting another thread asking about any trustworthy techs in your area.
4thDrWhoFan
Hello
I would give the circuit board a good visual exam. Since you said the channel initially cuts out after a few minutes of playing then it cuts in and out at random afterwards, I would put some money on bad solder joints.
What's happening is the solder joint is making contact when the unit is cold. Once it's been playing, the heat causes the solder joint to lose connection. After a few minutes of cutting out, the joint cools and starts playing again then it gets warm again and stops playing and the cycle continues.
Also, since you said it plays without speakers, I would look around the main amp board and the output transistors. With no load, the joint probably is staying connected.
You can also try to gently flex the circuit board when it cuts out to see if it comes back to help narrow down the area of the problem. If it's difficult to gain access, use the eraser end of a pencil and gently push down in different areas of the amp board to flex the circuit board once the channel has cut out.
You should be looking for very dull solder joints or even a small ring around the leads of components which would be a cracked solder joint. These can be difficult to see sometimes so a bright light will help along with the flexing and wiggling of components to see if the leads move.
What's happening is the solder joint is making contact when the unit is cold. Once it's been playing, the heat causes the solder joint to lose connection. After a few minutes of cutting out, the joint cools and starts playing again then it gets warm again and stops playing and the cycle continues.
Also, since you said it plays without speakers, I would look around the main amp board and the output transistors. With no load, the joint probably is staying connected.
You can also try to gently flex the circuit board when it cuts out to see if it comes back to help narrow down the area of the problem. If it's difficult to gain access, use the eraser end of a pencil and gently push down in different areas of the amp board to flex the circuit board once the channel has cut out.
You should be looking for very dull solder joints or even a small ring around the leads of components which would be a cracked solder joint. These can be difficult to see sometimes so a bright light will help along with the flexing and wiggling of components to see if the leads move.
