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No luck finding info on this TT

subspeciez

New Member
A buddy of mine brought over a few old pieces, knowing I'm a sucker for old hi-fi. I can't find any info on the Curtis Mathes turntable (CM-26) (B712). It seems to run fairly well except the tonearm lift is currently not working. Does anyone know about these are it it lost to the sands of time?
 

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Looks very similar to the LAB tables, most likely one of their other tables rebadged for Curtis Mathis. This is the Realistic R-8000/LAB 300

972815-realistic-r8000-lab300-turntable-with-new-stylus.jpg
 
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This is on the bottom
 

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If anyone has serviced a suspension style turntable, should I be accessing it from the top or bottom, or both. I need to fix the tonearm lift.
 
If anyone has serviced a suspension style turntable, should I be accessing it from the top or bottom, or both. I need to fix the tonearm lift.

Remove the platter and look for 2 or 3 screws in slots pointing out to different sides. If it has the design I think it might, you loosen those screws and slide them from the outside end of the slots toward the spindle. That will release the top plate from the lower base.

I could be wrong so, if in doubt still, get us a picture with the platter off.
 
Almost identical to my old Rotel RP-1000Q, definitely made by CEC. Not great but serviceable.
The RP was manual with auto-return, which never worked from Day One. Once the slider for the auto-return was removed, nothing else went wrong with the deck and I never had to do any teardowns.
 
Remove the platter and look for 2 or 3 screws in slots pointing out to different sides. If it has the design I think it might, you loosen those screws and slide them from the outside end of the slots toward the spindle. That will release the top plate from the lower base.

I could be wrong so, if in doubt still, get us a picture with the platter off.

It may also be necessary to remove the screws holding the plate where the strain relief for the audio cables and power cord are located. Ypu'll then be able to fish the plate through the hole in the base.

Also, there may only be one screw in a slot to loosen as shown below. Loosen the screw but don't remove it Then slide the screw all the way toward the spindle. Then raise the front of the metal top plate and bring the top plate away toward the front. (If this makes any sense, you're dealing with a C E C turntable.)

file.php
 
Yup. I was thinking a picture would help but I can't link as easily from the phone. Or type so good...
 
It may also be necessary to remove the screws holding the plate where the strain relief for the audio cables and power cord are located. Ypu'll then be able to fish the plate through the hole in the base.

Also, there may only be one screw in a slot to loosen as shown below. Loosen the screw but don't remove it Then slide the screw all the way toward the spindle. Then raise the front of the metal top plate and bring the top plate away toward the front. (If this makes any sense, you're dealing with a C E C turntable.)

file.php
Yes, after loosening the screws and sliding them I was able to lift pretty easily. I located the old belt, didn't really see anything to indicate the origin. I do tend to agree, that this seems like a CEC for sure.
After a little adjustment, my tonearm lift is working, it has leaked some fluid out, but I'll address that later.
 
Almost identical to my old Rotel RP-1000Q, definitely made by CEC. Not great but serviceable.
The RP was manual with auto-return, which never worked from Day One. Once the slider for the auto-return was removed, nothing else went wrong with the deck and I never had to do any teardowns.
That's what is happening here, automatic functions aren't working, honestly not too important to me anyway, however I'd like to fix whatever I can.
 
The Realistic LAB 300 service manual on vinylengine.com (you have to register to download it) is mechanically close if not spot on, and can help you repair it.
 
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