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Norman Lab #9

Ben Ellis

New Member
Recently purchased a set of the legendary Norman Lab #9's. The surrounds were shot as you can imagine but thanks to a good friend of mine they are back in business. Well that was until we shot some juice to them and I'm guessing the light bulb blew. The woofers are still playing but nothing is coming from the tweeters. I've seen where someone mentioned some upgrades and hoping for some specifics as to which direction to go from here. Thanks
 
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First I would replace the fuses, then slowly turn up the volume to make sure you didn't damage anything.

What exactly were you using to power them when they blew?
 
I have a pair of Model 9's. Those circuit breakers are total crap. Bypass them and they will sound like a blanket was taken off of them. It's most likely the circuit breakers. Junk. They were used by NL to protect the tweeters from excessive warranty exchanges by abusive volume controllers.
 
I have a pair of Model 9's. Those circuit breakers are total crap. Bypass them and they will sound like a blanket was taken off of them. It's most likely the circuit breakers. Junk. They were used by NL to protect the tweeters from excessive warranty exchanges by abusive volume controllers.
Just seen your reply and thank you for that info. While bypassing the breaker for the tweets should I go ahead and bypass the breaker on the drivers as well?
 
Recently purchased a set of the legendary Norman Lab #9's. The surrounds were shot as you can imagine but thanks to a good friend of mine they are back in business. Well that was until we shot some juice to them and I'm guessing the light bulb blew. The woofers are still playing but nothing is coming from the tweeters. I've seen where someone mentioned some upgrades and hoping for some specifics as to which direction to go from here. Thanks
 

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The breakers have probably been tripped quite a few times over their years of use which has weakened them. Yes, I would remove both. You could always install slow blow fuses in place of them if you feel you need protection on them. I didn't but I don't clip my amp into them.
 
Thanks for the advise for bypassing the circuit breakers for both.

Additional Question:

The previous owner blew 4 of the six tweeter and replaced them with two different sets of tweeters now I have 3 sets of tweeters and am not happy with the crappy tweeters he installed.

Do you have any suggestion as a good replacement for these tweeters. I need these to perform as well as they look:)

Thank you in advance for suggested replacement tweeters for these NL#9 tweeters!!!

Also what about those tone switchs in the back. What do you have them set at and is there any mods or elimination of those items recommended?
 
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Thank you for the potential source on the tweeters.

So Dave what are your thoughts on the tone switch on the back of thesespeakers? Are they any good? should they be upgraded or bypassed?
 
If that's a Philips it may not be that hard to find them.

Post a close up pic front and back just for kicks.
 
-Its definately a Phillips Tweeter! Any suggested replacements?

-Does anyone have the scematic for these speakers?

-Also when I opened it up all of the insulation was in the bottom. Are you guys pulling that out and replacing it?

So many questions and not enough answers ;-)

Thank you for your input!

TGIF:beerchug:
 
A Philips tweeter with the same numbers on it would be an excellent replacement.

Without knowing which tweeter it is, I have nothing more to suggest. Philips has made literally hundreds of drivers.
 
OK Norman Lab experts! The four (4) Philips tweeters that I need to get these back to stock are the AD-1624-T8. In looking on Ebay I did not see any with this part number. However, I saw a tread stating the AD-1624-T8 is the same as the AD-0163-T8 which had cloth domes vs. the mylar. Has anyone tried these cloth domes in the Normal Labs? Are they worth a try as I see a few of these on ebay?

-Also advise on the insulation that has all fallen to the bottom of the speaker cabnet. Do I need to do anything with this?
 
If you don't get an answer in this thread about the different tweeters, you might start a new thread titled "Is the Philips AD-0163-T8 Tweeter a good replacement for the AD-1624-T8?" Someone may have some pertinent info but just hasn't clicked on a thread about Norman Labs speakers.

As for the level controls, you should set them where they sound best to you. If anything doesn't work, get it up to original spec first before you think about modifying. I think Normans are pretty good speakers based on what I read here, so I'd listen to them first. Depending on age and quality of the crossover capacitors, you might want to replace them, but it may not be necessary at all.

What does that insulation look like? I don't know these speakers - does it look like it was attached somewhere or is it just stuffing?
 
Thanks for the advice on the tweeters.

On the insulation its hard to tell if it was attached. It is super dense, maybe minerial and fiber glass. It looks like it could be touching the three main drivers. I dont think this insulation should touch the drvers.
 
Some speakers are packed pretty tight, and as long as it doesn't actually interfere with the cone, it's OK. Assuming it's stock. But I have no idea what these should look like inside.
 
Did you contact the Doctor of Coneology at speakerworkstulsa? He won't be doing this much longer.
 
My pair of Model 9's are still in the closet and have been for about 3 years. Loved them but the Klipsch CF-3's took their place and I'll soon have a pair of Belle clones I'm building in that spot. 9's are great speakers and love some power.

Yeah, I'm sure ol' Dave is ready to hang it up after all these years. I've known him since about 1986, I guess it's been...back when he was the Coustic car audio rep for our store.
 
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