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Now no left channel at all

Thankfully the pc fans I have have a good length of thin insulated wire, so worst case I'll use those. Thank you so much. I'll look for breaks in the insulation, though it honestly just seems like the wires are dyed or painted
Probably magnet wire which is coated with enamel.

My advice is not intended to be at all harsh but based on experience. I faced a similar problem a few years ago. If you can afford it, send the arm to someone who will swap the wand for one from a Technics and have the arm rewired and the delrin cups in the bearings replaced with sapphire. It will be a much better arm and you will be happy.
The connector at the headshell end of the stock arm is difficult to work with and I melted my when rewiring it. That is a major reason I recommend you just bite the bullet and get it done right. It will be an excellent tonearm when done right.
 
Probably magnet wire which is coated with enamel.

My advice is not intended to be at all harsh but based on experience. I faced a similar problem a few years ago. If you can afford it, send the arm to someone who will swap the wand for one from a Technics and have the arm rewired and the delrin cups in the bearings replaced with sapphire. It will be a much better arm and you will be happy.
The connector at the headshell end of the stock arm is difficult to work with and I melted my when rewiring it. That is a major reason I recommend you just bite the bullet and get it done right. It will be an excellent tonearm when done right.

I've definitely thought of that, though finding someone to send it to is definitely hard. Not really sure if I can afford it, though I'm honestly stubborn and like to learn to fix things myself, even when I'm not good at it. I've been in situations like this before with other projects (not soldering related) and the skills I've learned have been pretty helpful.
 
OK. Soldering magnet wire isn’t the easiest thing to do because you can’t use wire strippers to remove the insulation. The enamel must be carefully scraped off using a knife. Use good lighting and don’t solder it until you see bright, shiny copper. Step by step. Continuity from cartridge to the headshell pins, same from arm pins all the way back. As already mentioned, be sure the headshell pins make good contact at the arm connection. You can do it but be methodical and think it through.
 
The enamel must be carefully scraped off using a knife. Use good lighting and don’t solder it until you see bright, shiny copper. Step by step.
No, sorry, that's bad advice. Wrong type of leads, combined with bad soldering, and most likely the wrong type of solder, which solidifies into a dull, cracking pad of crap. I'm horrified by those pictures and the OP is not going to make it - stubborn as might be. He needs professional help - not cheap tricks about utilizing cheap wire.
 
No, sorry, that's bad advice. Wrong type of leads, combined with bad soldering, and most likely the wrong type of solder, which solidifies into a dull, cracking pad of crap. I'm horrified by those pictures and the OP is not going to make it - stubborn as might be. He needs professional help - not cheap tricks about utilizing cheap wire.

Why is it the wrong type of solder? I'm using the recommended 67/33 solder. Besides the left ground, which looks like that because I quickly unsoldered the arm ground for pics, I thought I did a decent job.

I don't have the money to take this to a professional and spend $100+ on a repair. Is the fix really so complicated that I couldn't do it myself if given the right advice?
 
I don't have the money to take this to a professional and spend $100+ on a repair. Is the fix really so complicated that I couldn't do it myself if given the right advice?
It's probably the wrong type of solder because it's dull and cracking. Good solder looks solid, round and shiny. It could also be a bad soldering iron, the wrong tip, a too powerful or a too weak iron. I can't put my finger on it, but I can tell a botch job when I see one. You are NOT going to get this right practicing on a Thorens. I've been through this dozens of times. Look up rewiring a tonearm or installing RCA sockets. Find a pal who knows about soldering. This isn't rocket science - just a common skill and practice.
 
No, sorry, that's bad advice. Wrong type of leads, combined with bad soldering, and most likely the wrong type of solder, which solidifies into a dull, cracking pad of crap. I'm horrified by those pictures and the OP is not going to make it - stubborn as might be. He needs professional help - not cheap tricks about utilizing cheap wire.
Do you dispute that the wire looks to be coated with some type of enamel?
 
It's probably the wrong type of solder because it's dull and cracking. Good solder looks solid, round and shiny. It could also be a bad soldering iron, the wrong tip, a too powerful or a too weak iron. I can't put my finger on it, but I can tell a botch job when I see one. You are NOT going to get this right practicing on a Thorens. I've been through this dozens of times. Look up rewiring a tonearm or installing RCA sockets. Find a pal who knows about soldering. This isn't rocket science - just a common skill and practice.
I don’t disagree with you other than that he’s working on an AR XA. It’s his mess and I doubt it will get much worse and he just might learn something. Geez……..
 
I don’t disagree with you other than that he’s working on an AR XA. It’s his mess and I doubt it will get much worse and he just might learn something. Geez……..

What's life if not a giant opportunity to learn

My thought process is that unless I smash the headshell or destroy the table, I can take it to someone to fix if I really really need it. Otherwise, if it's just wires I might as well figure out how to fish
 
I think you said it's your first go at soldering, so it was unfortunate that this happened to involve tonearm wire and speaker wire, both difficult to work with compared to the usual gauge that people start on.

Maybe you can put up some pictures of the solder and the soldering iron you use (and other tools), and you might be able to get some advice on whether it's what you need or if something else is recommended.
 
I think you said it's your first go at soldering, so it was unfortunate that this happened to involve tonearm wire and speaker wire, both difficult to work with compared to the usual gauge that people start on.

Maybe you can put up some pictures of the solder and the soldering iron you use (and other tools), and you might be able to get some advice on whether it's what you need or if something else is recommended.

I switched from a generic no name iron I got from China years ago to a Pinecil V2. The solder is this stuff:

MAIYUM 63-37 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire for Electrical Soldering (0.6mm 50g) https://a.co/d/7tTLhR4
 
I think you said it's your first go at soldering, so it was unfortunate that this happened to involve tonearm wire and speaker wire, both difficult to work with compared to the usual gauge that people start on.

Maybe you can put up some pictures of the solder and the soldering iron you use (and other tools), and you might be able to get some advice on whether it's what you needive or if something else is recommended.
I think you said it's your first go at soldering, so it was unfortunate that this happened to involve tonearm wire and speaker wire, both difficult to work with compared to the usual gauge that people start on.

Maybe you can put up some pictures of the solder and the soldering iron you use (and other tools), and you might be able to get some advice on whether it's what you need or if something else is recommended.

I’ve been soldering for over forty years and still struggle with it. When I rewired the arm on my XA several years ago it wasn’t easy at all. It may be one of those skills that can diminish if it isn’t constantly honed.
 
The solder looks okay. I personally would pass over solder from a China brand because the stuff is easy to buy from others who have been in the game far longer and have established a good reputation, but I have no particular reason to distrust Chinese solder, and haven't looked into how much acceptance it has gained. The main, thing, probably, is that you have made the correct choice by starting off with leaded solder rather than lead-free.

I didn't know the soldering iron at all but looked them up (Tom's hardware) and see nothing to worry about there: they like it.

To run through the process, when the iron is hot enough, you want to clean the tip (damp sponge etc.), tin it, solder the piece, clean the tip, re-tin it, and keep doing that for every single location you solder. I'm sure people bend the rules a little once they're comfortable with the process, but that's best practice, and I think anyone starting out should follow it closely. So even for a capacitor or resistor, you would do a leg at a time, cleaning and re-tinning after soldering the first leg.

As well as the above, you often need to tin a wire you're working on before soldering it in.

When the solder is flowing to where it needs to go, make sure that you don't move the wire within the solder. Give it time to cool and solidify before releasing, otherwise the wire may shift and compromise the joint.

You also want to avoid overheating the terminal/component/trace (that heat will travel far, too), so if you find the solder doesn't seem to take, back off, let the part cool a while, and begin again. If necessary, remove solder so that you can start again with a clean joint. You have to be aware of what's around the location where you apply the iron, as heating for too long can damage or destroy parts, or lift traces from boards.

I don't think it's really difficult, despite the lengthy discussion of tools and techniques you can find even in AK's back pages. More tricky than the soldering itself is stabilizing or accessing the parts in a piece of equipment. Sometimes you're trying to hold a board steady, hold the solder feed, hold a soldering iron, and steady the component you want to solder in to the board all at once. There are various accessories for helping with that, although I haven't had much luck with the third hand tool, and often just use Blu Tack for want of anything better.
 
One point that I don’t think has been mentioned is to apply the iron to the spot to be soldered and let the heat from that spot melt and draw the solder into it. For example, when tinning a wire, the solder goes on one side and the tip the other.
 
It’s his mess and I doubt it will get much worse and he just might learn something. Geez……..
Oh yes, that's one hell of a mess, and it's not gonna sort it self out with tips about how to peel off enamel coated leads (BTW you either do it the right way, and use a melting pot, or you take a short cut, and burn them with a cigarette lighter). It's wrong bottom to top, starting with those leads, and how they're connected to the tonearm harness. I'm betting the sheath is in contact with the hot lead - effectively muting both channels, but the way to tackle this - is to lay off the enamel coated leads all together, and use tonearm wire with an adequate level of soldering.
 
One point that I don’t think has been mentioned is to apply the iron to the spot to be soldered and let the heat from that spot melt and draw the solder into it. For example, when tinning a wire, the solder goes on one side and the tip the other.

So I finally got a multimeter and tested it. Weirdly enough, the only connection seems to be the green wire (left ground). It sends a current through the left ground and right main. Strange stuff.
 
Oh yes, that's one hell of a mess, and it's not gonna sort it self out with tips about how to peel off enamel coated leads (BTW you either do it the right way, and use a melting pot, or you take a short cut, and burn them with a cigarette lighter). It's wrong bottom to top, starting with those leads, and how they're connected to the tonearm harness. I'm betting the sheath is in contact with the hot lead - effectively muting both channels, but the way to tackle this - is to lay off the enamel coated leads all together, and use tonearm wire with an adequate level of soldering.
I agree with you. Do YOU think he wired the arm with that stuff? Sure, if we’re mine I’d just rewire it correctly. Thanks for the tip about dealing with enamel coated leads.
 
I agree with you. Do YOU think he wired the arm with that stuff? Sure, if we’re mine I’d just rewire it correctly. Thanks for the tip about dealing with enamel coated leads.

Do you know if that's the original arm wiring? I don't think so because some of the colors are switched but maybe that's a factory mixup
 
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