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OK to replace bipolar electrolytics with film caps in crossovers?

thorpej

thorpej

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I have a couple of pairs of Sansui loudspeakers (SP-1700 and SP-X9) that I am considering recapping as a preventative maintenance measure. These days, of course, it's easy to find film caps in the larger capacities where bipolar electrolytics used to do the job. For example, the SP-X9 crossover network specifies a 15uF and 2x 2.2uF bipolar electrolytics (in addition to the originally-specified .33uF and .1uF film caps).

At first blush, it seems like this should be no problem, but I know that film caps tend to have a lower ESR than electrolytics, and while I doubt that would make any difference in these speakers, I'm wondering if there are any other considerations I should be aware of.

(I just like the idea of replacing the electrolytics with Solen "Fast"s, and never having to think about them again for as long as I live...)
 
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Amazon has some Solens and Axion's and they made a world of difference on my system. By using Amazon you save PE high shipping costs. They still come from PE!
 
I've used both Solen and Dayton and would rate them about equal.
Is that a Burns Bison in your pic, Thorpej?
 
I've recapped two pairs of Sansui SP-3500's, a pair of SP-1500's and one other pair that escapes me at the moment. I used all Solen caps. If I had to do it all over again, I would simply use either Erse or Bennic electrolytic bi-polar caps. The drivers in those speakers won't make use of the nice, modern film caps. What I mean to say is, that your return in sonic presentation won't match the money that you spent.

Biggles
 
Oh, and I've found that adding poly caps to Sansui speakers with horns can make them too bright, painful. They need a little of that higher ESR in the electrolytics to tame them just a tad.

Biggles
 
drbiggles said:
Oh, and I've found that adding poly caps to Sansui speakers with horns can make them too bright, painful. They need a little of that higher ESR in the electrolytics to tame them just a tad.
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Bingo! Initially, I replaced the 13 uF electrolytic in my New Advents with a film cap and the result was excessive brightness. You must add a nominal amount of impedance or my approach was to bypass a 12 uF electrolytic with a 1 uF film.

That improved transparency and avoided the brightness.
 
I would venture to guess that whether one or the other is 'better' depends quite a bit on the original voicing of the speaker and the listener's ears and listening preferences. Personally I've never regretted replacing an NPE with a film cap, but that's just me.
 
It's a trap.

Starts innocent enough; replace a couple of ancient eletro's with poly to assure longer life and maybe reap some performance benefit in the deal.

You hear a difference. It may be pleasing to your ears. Pride from the success of your decision to upgrade will blind you to a subtle, sinister thought creeping into your subconscious,... "could there be more?"

Then the search begins. Before you know it, you're at the bank withdrawing your soul to purchase the ultimate nirvana of audiophile caps (you know the ones: cryogenically treated 100% pure gold foil hand rolled during a full moon on the thighs of virgins).

And there you are, caught headlong in a downward spiral to the darkest depths of voodoo boutique, whilst the angels weep for you.

Be strong! Resist -- before it's too late! Just say NO!

Either that, or go with the Solens ...;)
 
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Ive tried lots of different poly caps. Dayton and those cheap yellow axial poly's are usually my go to cap now. I do like the PIO's as well. If the caps cost more than your speakers did your doing it wrong. :thumbsup:
 
Lavane said:
Ive tried lots of different poly caps. Dayton and those cheap yellow axial poly's are usually my go to cap now. I do like the PIO's as well. If the caps cost more than your speakers did your doing it wrong. :thumbsup:
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I agree 100% here! I use the Dayton 5% polys in all my speaker restorations, and the yellow IC caps from AES in all my amps. PIOs are great also, smoother than the films, but slightly less articulate.
 
Stuart Pedaso said:
It's a trap.

Starts innocent enough; replace a couple of ancient eletro's with poly to assure longer life and maybe reap some performance benefit in the deal.

You hear a difference. It may be pleasing to your ears. Pride from the success of your decision to upgrade will blind you to a subtle, sinister thought creeping into your subconscious,... "could there be more?"

Then the search begins. Before you know it, you're at the bank withdrawing your soul to purchase the ultimate nirvana of audiophile caps (you know the ones: cryogenically treated 100% pure gold foil hand rolled during a full moon on the thighs of virgins).

And there you are, caught headlong in a downward spiral to the darkest depths of voodoo boutique, whilst the angels weep for you.

Be strong! Resist -- before it's too late! Just say NO!

Either that, or go with the Solens ...;)
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I say the ones rolled on the new moon are far superior. Audiophile grade! I say!
 
rudedogg said:
I agree 100% here! I use the Dayton 5% polys in all my speaker restorations, and the yellow IC caps from AES in all my amps. PIOs are great also, smoother than the films, but slightly less articulate.
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Yah, I may just go this way. I'm also a big fan of the Illinois yellow tubulars -- I also use those in all of my amps :-)
 
thorpej said:
Yah, I may just go this way. I'm also a big fan of the Illinois yellow tubulars -- I also use those in all of my amps :)
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When i started recapping my speakers, alot of folks recommended the Daytons. They have never let me down yet. And every time i start a resto on an amp, i ask here and have been told use orange drops ,pio, or the yellow poly caps. I just rebuilt a Mesa Boogie guitar amp for a friend that ate an orange drop in the bias circuit. I replaced all of them, along with the bias circuit resistors, good as new! But an orange drop did fail! Lol! so....i go with the yellow films every time now!
 
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