Mini Shelf System
Fits on a bookcase
Including speakers
Electronics narrower than classic stereo components
Basically a glorified boombox where the speakers are not attached (or can be detached).
Often referred to as 'plastic crap'.
Old stereo speakers repair ?
- Thread starter ultumax
- Start date
Mini Shelf System
Fits on a bookcase
Including speakers
Electronics narrower than classic stereo components
Basically a glorified boombox where the speakers are not attached (or can be detached).
Often referred to as 'plastic crap'.
Yeah that picture is actually one of the better ones , today there the lowest of the low crap some even say there party system or are 700w rms yeah right . Wattage does not make quality .
Mini Shelf System
Fits on a bookcase
Including speakers
Electronics narrower than classic stereo components
Basically a glorified boombox where the speakers are not attached (or can be detached).
Often referred to as 'plastic crap'.
These were a fad but some brands still make them , blue tooth speakers are the new shelf system .
I guess there for impulse buyers .
ItBites
New Member
First, the Gorilla Glue Clear does not expand, or foam, or any of the other fun things the Brown version does. And OK, if'n ya wanna be picky-pants maybe it is particle board and not MDF... So.... Did you have a point that is material to the discussion, or are you just the nomenclature police? Both are crap materials to use for frankly anything, except, geesh, they sometimes have useful damping characteristics not found in board-foot lumber and are uniformly isotropic in their mechanical properties whereas board-foot lumber definitely has differing mechanical properties with, across, and through the grain, and even that depends on which cut technique was used and what part of the logs your boards came from. I don't like MDF or particle board, but there's a bunch of vintage and new cabinets made up of materials that are essentially a cured mixture of 'glue' and wood 'pieces' (I don't want to debate resin vs glue, vs plastic, vs elastomer, vs epoxy... or slivers vs. chips, vs sawdust vs splinters vs shavings, vs curlings, vs... ad infinitum). BUT none of that really matters in this context. We have the cabinets we have. Most use some form of this crap material. Fix yours or don't... The OP asked for a repair method. I have actually repaired damage consistent with his dilemma, so I chimed in. The repair process described works with any of the typical materials that could be described as a cured mixture of 'glue' and wood 'pieces'. If you have repaired similar with lasting and functional results, please post your method. Otherwise...
Thanks I don’t understand what’s up with all the speaker bashing , these are good quality for the type of shelf speaker they are . And I want to practice repair on them before moving on to my bigger ,! Nicer RtR
I never said these were top of line speakers or anything, obv there old and discontinued.
So wood peices and what gorilla wood glue ? I tried a different brand of wood glue when making my diy subwoofers box and the brand sucked . Wish I remember the brand !!
Did you clamp the pieces you used wood glue on? The directions probably mentioned it. Good to learn on
ItBites
New Member
Ultumax, Hey, hey! I have at pair of RTRs that need refurbished as well. Never heard them, but I have them... Bwahahahaha! I understand the foams are an odd size, but are available... Someone would know from where, but that's not this thread topic...
Gorilla Glue CLEAR. Must be the CLEAR. Can be bought at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, etc... Comes in a smallish bottle that says "Gorilla Glue Clear". Otherwise simply follow the 97 step easy directions and voila!!! Hahaha, it can be a bit confusing, but it's all there and just take one step at a time.
Start with removing all loose crap, but don't tear into the material. Brush the loose stuff off by hand and blow it off with shop air. No more loose stuff now. Then apply the glue liberally to the entire affected area, and let it seep into the material as it cures for two days. Wipe away any drips or runs. This will seal and greatly strengthen the remaining material that may be damaged and not perfect, but is not loose and falling off, yet...
Only after the two days for curing go to the next step. And, if the glue is too sticky, wait another day or two. Do not rush any of this process; patience is a virtue. Complete the first part above before even thinking about the next steps to avoid confusion, plus the process of discovery may help your future understanding of the subsequent steps. Soon you will need an electric or air-powered DA or jitterbug sander and 150-ish and 220-ish grit sandpaper, so be prepared and start gathering the right tools. Hit me back if'n you get stumped.
Gorilla Glue CLEAR. Must be the CLEAR. Can be bought at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, etc... Comes in a smallish bottle that says "Gorilla Glue Clear". Otherwise simply follow the 97 step easy directions and voila!!! Hahaha, it can be a bit confusing, but it's all there and just take one step at a time.
Start with removing all loose crap, but don't tear into the material. Brush the loose stuff off by hand and blow it off with shop air. No more loose stuff now. Then apply the glue liberally to the entire affected area, and let it seep into the material as it cures for two days. Wipe away any drips or runs. This will seal and greatly strengthen the remaining material that may be damaged and not perfect, but is not loose and falling off, yet...
Only after the two days for curing go to the next step. And, if the glue is too sticky, wait another day or two. Do not rush any of this process; patience is a virtue. Complete the first part above before even thinking about the next steps to avoid confusion, plus the process of discovery may help your future understanding of the subsequent steps. Soon you will need an electric or air-powered DA or jitterbug sander and 150-ish and 220-ish grit sandpaper, so be prepared and start gathering the right tools. Hit me back if'n you get stumped.
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ItBites
New Member
GChief, I'm not clamping anything, just trying to stabilize and hold together what remaining material may be present. First you have to stop the spread of the damage and the loss of little pieces by using glue. The glue is like encasing the wood in lucite. Slather the glue on and use your gloved finger to spread it out. It seeps into the material, bonding the first 1/8 inch or so together, hard as a rock. I am assuming the cabinet is water damaged, weak, decaying, with local breaks or cracks, and with broken corners, but generally intact, and in the shape of a speaker cabinet. If you have assembly joints that have failed, see my comment about pulling glue into the joints with vacuum applied to the inside of the cabinet.
You kinda need to give it a try and see what happens...
You kinda need to give it a try and see what happens...
I was talking about his other project that he used actual wood glue on. It always makes a better joint when clamped or screwed.
infullview
Super Member
No bashing from me. Learning is good and these will give some practice on material that will be challenging. If you can make your repairs so they blend, and are difficult to see then you'll know you succeeded. Tightbond carpenters glue is good. On these I would use some sort of bondo type filler, then sand and paint spots to match. You can be creative as you wish - auto parts places have a lot of shades of spray paint under the duplicolor brand. You might find a very close match.
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GD70
Lunatic Member
Often these type of systems are teens first introduction to decent sounding stereos, which gets the buds unplugged out of their ears! This is a win-win! Hopefully it will inspire them to take the next steps up the sonic quality ladder and get more serious about the sound from a good system.
Yeah I still have my first one of these it was a pro logic surround system , but it’s more of a stereo for bass heavy music . I’m trying to decide if I want to flared port my Rtr or re seal them ? Are they acoustics suspension??
I need more pics of them deleted off my phone it was full.
I want a newer avr in my bAsment system someday so I can run all channel stereo .
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Doug G.
Lunatic Member
Some of you guys have a real knack for being jerks (I could even use a stronger word) when it comes to making somebody feel good about wanting to try things. Why is it so impossible just to give the advice being asked?
And, there most certainly IS rubber-based super glue, more accurately called rubber reinforced. One thing for which it is excellent is reassembling drivers. The cone to VC and spider, e.g.
Doug
And, there most certainly IS rubber-based super glue, more accurately called rubber reinforced. One thing for which it is excellent is reassembling drivers. The cone to VC and spider, e.g.
Doug
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ItBites
New Member
Thanks Doug and others who have chimed in. Thanks. I am new here and I assumed (I should never assume) this wasn't a bashing kinda place and I didn't take kindly to the bashing. I appreciate y'all that've been here for 1000 or 3000 or 7000 posts weighing-in and affirming my assumptions. I did try to lay low and be a good newbie, and not cause waves, but my ADD and OCD and the free American red blood in my veins won't allow me to keep my trap shut. I will say it right now: I'm sorry. There! That's for whatever I've said and done wrong and instigated and also for what I will say and do in the future. And... I will try to be good 
.
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HTHMAN
Super Member
Not just any wood filler. Use the Bondo or Minwax I mentioned. It is a 2-part epoxy-like putty. You mix it, fill the damaged area and it hardens. It is easy to sand and finish.
Mike Stehr
Poverty Audio
Just make sure to use the wood bondo filler outside, BTW.