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Older CD players?

I find this odd as ALL of my older units (15-20yrs) still function just fine. The newest units (5) have all failed. And as these older units are so cheap if it does fail in 5yrs just buy another one. And why buy a CHEAP new model when it's possible to buy TOTL or near to it with a used one? Many of these players saw very little use and will still be going strong in another 20yrs.
I agree with this too, even though older/vintage machines can fail. But as Kingshead says, and as I inferred above, TOTL vintage stuff can be an excellent investment. And again, as he says, if it fails in a few years, you've probably spent less than you would have spent buying cheap, new players with these admittedly good audio chip-sets. (I've had three die on me ... and not lasting much more than a year — if memory serves me.) Of course you can spend more and get more. But ....

Some time ago I trawled the net for info about audio disk players. I tried to get from under the voodoo and down to some bedrock. Now, there may be objections to this thesis, and I welcome any of it as it might pertain to the OP's question:

Transport can contribute to the big, nebulous bugaboo known as jitter. The more rigid, dampened, and mechanically accurate and precise the transport is, the better the reading of the disk. This was even part of the TOTL cassette players of another era — and I have one. The 'door' is activated via solenoids units, and when closed the cassette is not only locked in by the usual hardware, but held rigid by an additional, dampened, insulated enclosure. Was it a gimmick? Did it add anything to the quality of recording and playback. Well, I have no measurements, but this Akai machine has glazed-coated heads that are virtually indestructible. It's built like the proverbial tank. Recordings are the best I have ever heard and rival the iconic 'Nakamichi Dragon'. I do not think that Akai was trying to fool anyone with gimmicks.

And so I believe — despite my being without engineering training or an electronics maven — that precision transport is important. If you look at TOTL disk transports, they fall in line with the mechanical integrity I attributed to my Akai cassette machine. On the other hand, so many disk players are feeble bits of wobbly PVC pulled about by bits of nylon. How does this compare with a tray formed out of a metal casting dampened with a bitumen-like substance and driven on precision, lubricated tracks ... and a device for locking the disk firmly on the bed.

I guess I am repeating myself — but this time supporting Kingshead's assertion that old machines can last out much more than a season. And if it should fail later in the day, as he says, get another one. Some of them still have laser units available for them. As a guess, $100 should get you back in business. Buy a TOTL unit for cheap money and ... if you feel so inclined buy a modern DAC unit. The latter should last for as long as you want to use it. Mine is connected by a DIY, quality BNC cable/connector. IMHO — hi-end for cheap money!

Do the maths and see what you come up with. I think: older TOTL transports + modern DAC chips = cheap, hi-end audio.

To be sure the BluRay as well as the 'media wars' will offer something in addition to the RedBook CD — that's progress of a kind.
 
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Since Blue Ray players are now even showing up in thrifts look for a DVD player with multi format platforms. I used them with great results. Brands like Pioneer Denon Onkyo Yamaha Sony with remotes are out there for cheap. Especially this time of the year people are upgrading to internet portals or a new Xbox players and dump the old units.



Barney
 
I would not buy a CD player (or Universal player) older than 10 yrs old. Since parts might be hard to get and there are a lot of counterfeit lasers out there for the older players.
I bought my CDX 1020 for about $35. Who cares about spare parts?
 
You will when it dies and then you have to buy another for that price.

Penny wise dollar foolish.

You can get a newer, better sounding player for a little more money than that. Newer CD players sound better than older ones period - using the internal DACs.

I don't believe this blanket statement. I bought a JVC XL-V151 off of the Bay for $20 shipped. Thing works great and sounds great. And plays every disc I throw at it. I absolutely love the sound I get from it. If it ever dies (which I doubt will happen anytime soon) I can find another similar JVC unit for cheap again. No worries.
 
You will when it dies and then you have to buy another for that price.

Penny wise dollar foolish.

You can get a newer, better sounding player for a little more money than that. Newer CD players sound better than older ones period - using the internal DACs.

And when that newer, maybe better-sounding, made-in-China wonder dies out of warranty in three to five years, you'll be out a lot more money than the $35 that lorne spent on his Yamaha player. I can live without that business model, thanks. I prefer to keep using a vintage player -- in my case, a very elderly Magnavox CDB-650 -- with a much newer external DAC.
 
I don't believe this blanket statement. I bought a JVC XL-V151 off of the Bay for $20 shipped. Thing works great and sounds great. And plays every disc I throw at it. I absolutely love the sound I get from it. If it ever dies (which I doubt will happen anytime soon) I can find another similar JVC unit for cheap again. No worries.

Yep. With a few tweaks it's even better.
Watch your local thrifts. Picked up a dirty, but working (will need a belt soon) v151 for $10. Find one and keep it as a backup.
 
And when that newer, maybe better-sounding, made-in-China wonder dies out of warranty in three to five years, you'll be out a lot more money than the $35 that lorne spent on his Yamaha player. I can live without that business model, thanks. I prefer to keep using a vintage player -- in my case, a very elderly Magnavox CDB-650 -- with a much newer external DAC.

+1
My CDB650 and 560 (after some pretty easy Mods) are still going strong, and sound good even with their TDA1541As.
 
I have 3X 20~ish year old Sony ES changers (2X C75ES and 1X C67ES) all 3 work very well and sound quite good indeed... I paid $25~ish ea for them ... I have gotten them at separate times the one i have had the longest i've had nearly 2yrs now.. so i have got my $25 worth already certainly.
 
Philips CD100 here (and few other 20+ years old CDPs from Sony, Yamaha and JVC). That thing is now 32 years old and nowhere near dying. And it has no problem playing badly scratched discs that no modern player will play, even fresh out of the box.

I do have modern players as well, but I pick them based on cheap laser availability. They always need replacement after 2-3 years.
 
You will when it dies and then you have to buy another for that price.

Penny wise dollar foolish.

You can get a newer, better sounding player for a little more money than that. Newer CD players sound better than older ones period - using the internal DACs.

LMAO, thats a dumb blanket statement that even you know is wrong. You can keep your cheap plasticy new things. I'll keep my CDP that has been going strong for 30+ years. Thanks for playing.
 
You can buy a Sony CDP-XA1ES cheap and the laser, KSS213, is still available. Sounds great stock, upgrade the opamps and it sounds even better. I went CD player shopping with a friend recently and none of the new ones sounded any better than any of mine, regardless of price.
 
I'm also strongly in the vintage camp. Mine are built like tanks, work perfectly (now that I know which models to avoid), and sound wonderful. I have a second generation player from early 1984 that still works 100%, and several others from the the late 80s that cost very little, and have worked fine for years - including one with those wonderful TDA1541A chips. Build and sound quality are top notch.

For what I've paid for them I've gotten my moneys worth - and then some. Not one single player has had a laser go out. I've stocked up up on parts units just in case a laser does go out, but that may be years down the road.
 
I would be on the lookout for Vintage Technics CD Players particularly the MASH units. They sound a lot better than they ought. Some of them have output for an external DAC others don't.
 
I would be on the lookout for Vintage Technics CD Players particularly the MASH units. They sound a lot better than they ought. Some of them have output for an external DAC others don't.

I had three of them at one time....gave one to a buddy, and sold the other one. Kept the one with the mysterios Class AA on the front.

The laser is dying, I think, cause it starts getting garbly and cutting out, but the sound is so warm and clean. VERY nice cdp's.
 
I would be on the lookout for Vintage Technics CD Players particularly the MASH units. They sound a lot better than they ought. Some of them have output for an external DAC others don't.

The MASH units seem to play any disc, even ones with bad scratches.

One other thing, I read this on a pack of blank CD-R's some years ago. It warned that some older players might have trouble playing discs that exceeded 74 minutes. I've only seen that on one brand (don't recall the name), so I don't know how true.


The laser is dying, I think, cause it starts getting garbly and cutting out, but the sound is so warm and clean. VERY nice cdp's.

I assume you gave the lens a cleaning. The only other thing I can thing of is a drop or spike in the power. I had one Sony player that had that problem if you used the switch on the surge protector first then turned it on. There was a slight spike in the voltage at the surge that gave the player hiccups. Always keeping the surge switch on solved the problem.
 
thanks, spinning, yes, laser has been cleaned.

It stayed on 365/24/7 at the radio station where I was once employed for years. She's got some miles.
 
I had three of them at one time....gave one to a buddy, and sold the other one. Kept the one with the mysterios Class AA on the front.

The laser is dying, I think, cause it starts getting garbly and cutting out, but the sound is so warm and clean. VERY nice cdp's.

Clean the sliders that the laser slides on. Clean thoroughly with alcohol, allow to dry and put a few drops of light machine oil on them. If that doesn't work, the laser is probably going.
 
Clean the sliders that the laser slides on. Clean thoroughly with alcohol, allow to dry and put a few drops of light machine oil on them. If that doesn't work, the laser is probably going.

I had read your sticky, and decided to try that with my leaping backwards, mercurial Yamaha cdx-1100U

Haven't purchased any machine oil, any you recommend? And thanks for the tips.
 
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