restorer-john
Addicted Member
Dremel cutting wheel. A few seconds- done.
That's a good reference photo to work from. Quite strange marking it is, because the LY relays are for DC only made as 12/24/48/100/110V, in which the marking is normally something like LY2-0-DC24 (the 0 in the middle stands for PCB pin).
That marking of yours may suggest a custom version made for Technics, perhaps 20Vdc (but why?)
Now, the LY datasheet states that the "must-operate voltage" is at 80% max, meaning that a 24Vdc relay will always be on at 19.2V; so a regular 24 Vdc relay may work if your original relay would be 20Vdc. A bit of circuit tweaking might help things further (or alternatively to lower the voltage to the relay to 12V so that a 12V relay could be installed)
But before anything else, some circuit diagram would be required.
Or simpler.... measuring the voltage across the existing relay while it is on... that would solve the voltage rating question very quickly.
Thats doesn't mean the relay is bad. 24 vdc is always present on one end of the relay coil and measured at both ends of the coil until relay "sets". H727 and H 728 controls the other end of the coil.By routing the 24 volts through the coil to ground to "set" the relay. Or removing the ground to "reset" the relay. The protect circuit may be operating as it should. Have you checked your DC offset voltages from the amplifiers ? At a point before the relay of course.Marantz 1070 relay is shot - getting 24VDC to the coil, coil resistance is 640 Ohms. Relay doesn't pick - at least I don't hear a click, and to verify contacts making will have to disassemble the entire amplifier board assembly.
Thats doesn't mean the relay is bad. 24 vdc is always present on one end of the relay coil. H727 and H 728 controls the other end of the coil.By routing the 24 volts through the coil to ground to "set" the relay. Or removing the ground to "reset" the relay. The protect circuit may be operating as it should. Have you checked your DC offset voltages from the amplifiers ? At a point before the relay of course.
That won't accomplish anything.I might just inject the signal into input and see of it gets to r775 and 776 first.
Check your solder connections for H727 and 728.What voltage is at the emitter of H727 ? or base of H728 ?
Thats a good sign..I see around 1mv on r775 and r776, which are outputs just before the relay.
Is that same voltage on the base of 728 ? If so H728 is not switching properly and needs to be replaced.727 emitter is 0.7v .
Thats correct. you have a protect circuit problem most likely at this point H728...but it should not trigger protection at this value .
Before jumping the gun.. Replace H728...I think your relay is good. Granted it may have tarnished or pitted contacts. But replacing it won't make it " click" nor will cleaning/burnishing the contacts.I did some research on the relay - there are quite a few threads on AK about it failing, but nobody found a form-fit-function replacement.
LC2-C-M relay - 640 Ohm 24VDC coil. I have never seen such a pin configuration in protection relay - 2 top pins for the input, middle pins for coil, bottom pair for outputs... None of the LY2 or MY4 series that I can find have this pinout. I really don't think the "paper cleaning trick" is a long term solution. I may macgyver LY2 instead - epoxy the relay nearby and hardwire it into the board? Would that make sense?
Relay doesn't pick - at least I don't hear a click,
Unless ?? When you measured the coil resistance...I think your relay is good.
You measured it in circuit . If you did. It may be and erroneous measurement., coil resistance is 640 Ohms