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Onkyo TX-7000 Missing Speaker Selector Potentiometer

krautmaster said:
I didn't know they would be soo short on the front end ! At least you have it working now and can keep your eyes peeled for one... since you only need the shaft, a switch from a TX-3000, 5000, 7000, or 9000 should work.
Click to expand...
Well the 3000 and 5000 speaker selector switches on have A/B/A&B so I don’t think those would work? As for the 9000, this doesn’t exist as the 7000 was TOTL
krautmaster said:
Look at what I just found- speaker select switch for a TX-5000...shaft is long on the front end.. take a look and see if it is the one you need:

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
I was just about to reply back to you lol. The 3000 and 5000 speaker selector switches only have A/B/A&B (no C set speakers) so I don’t think those would work? As for the 9000, this doesn’t exist as the 7000 was TOTL. I did see the 5000 switch you’re referring to, and if it’s even possible to make it extend beyond the A/B/A&B then great, but I’m still wondering if there’s enough space on the back end for what needs to be there from the 7000 as seen in the photos I attached. I think it’s possible they could squeeze in there if I got rid of the little spacers that go between the whatever the brown circular components are that slide on/off the shaft
 

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Really makes you wonder if I need to stay with the Onkyo family to get the job done if all I need is a proper length shaft on a speaker selector that has A/B/C/A&B/A&C options. For example, this Sony STR-7500 selector switch looks like it might work, but the shaft seems just a tad bit shorter in the front than what I need.
 

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ScherrWA said:
Well the 3000 and 5000 speaker selector switches on have A/B/A&B so I don’t think those would work? As for the 9000, this doesn’t exist as the 7000 was TOTL

I was just about to reply back to you lol. The 3000 and 5000 speaker selector switches only have A/B/A&B (no C set speakers) so I don’t think those would work? As for the 9000, this doesn’t exist as the 7000 was TOTL. I did see the 5000 switch you’re referring to, and if it’s even possible to make it extend beyond the A/B/A&B then great, but I’m still wondering if there’s enough space on the back end for what needs to be there from the 7000 as seen in the photos I attached. I think it’s possible they could squeeze in there if I got rid of the little spacers that go between the whatever the brown circular components are that slide on/off the shaft
Click to expand...
No, you have to leave the spacers in there to keep the phenolic rings separated- the front one likely contols the A, B, C, and the rear one the A&B and A&C. Looks like the 3000/5000 shafts are way too short in the back since they don't have the second phenolic ring to control the C speakers. This stinks because those 7000's are fine machines and IMO sound better than the older TX- 6500/8500 MKII models (I've had ALL the TX-X500 MKII models and only kept the 4500 MKII because it sounded the best.)
 
ScherrWA said:
Really makes you wonder if I need to stay with the Onkyo family to get the job done if all I need is a proper length shaft on a speaker selector that has A/B/C/A&B/A&C options. For example, this Sony STR-7500 selector switch looks like it might work, but the shaft seems just a tad bit shorter in the front than what I need.
Click to expand...
The switches (Onkyo/Sony) appear to be the same variety, you just need one the correct length- I'd spend some time on hifishark.com looking at various Japanese models from the late 70's-early 80's- highfishark lists stuff from all kinds of places (reverb, ebay, etc) and shows whole units as well as parts- take a look at all the bits you can get for a TX-5000

Used onkyo TX-5000 for Sale | HifiShark.com

Used Onkyo Tx-5000 for sale on 300+ second hand hifi sites & shops. Use Hifi Shark to monitor pricing and global availability
www.hifishark.com www.hifishark.com
 
You're overthinking this, I'm rather positive.

Looking for switches from decades ago and comparing them between different manufacturers is time wasted, as you only need the shaft, not the switch.

Yours broke off at the slit where the serrated part starts, right?...the usual, common thing.
One way to go is with a shaft extender, if space alows it. You use either the broken shaft or the new one. There must be a gazillion of (new and cheap) pontentiometers/switches with shaft serrated and slit that can take your knob.

Your switch is easily taken apart, as far as I can judge, so post a few pics, preferably with dimension, of your broken shaft.
 
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