The dual version was used because it was replacing a dual OP amp, you know, 'the old stereo one per channel' thing?John can you please clarify why were you using OPA2604 (Dual version) instead of OPA604(single) ? Or I misunderstood something ?
Ohh i did not realize that both channels go via same chip that is what "1/2 "meant. By the way how precise the +21.2 and -21.5 supply rails are? if they are i would also try LME49860. Ithink between OPA2604 and LME49860 at least 15 to 20 years (in terms when they were created). I know Voltages are close to max for LME but specs are very nice for LME. I recently restored Setton RS-660 and replaced TA7631P with LME49870 (single version of 49860 which is now obsolete but i do have around 16 chips of 49870) in phono. But i have to say Voldages there were +-18.7 VThe dual version was used because it was replacing a dual OP amp, you know, 'the old stereo one per channel' thing?The OPA2604AP was recommended to me by Echowars (Glenn), as being the closest and best replacement available at the time. (The 'single' version was never even considered, also, at the time I don't think there was a twin, single channel OP amp to SIP8 Brown Dog adapter). I made the change and was happy, but in the back of my mind I was uncomfortable with how hot the replacement OP amps were getting.
Move forward a couple of years and the makers of the OP amp have withdrawn it from production due to concerns about failures (or inability to hold specification) due to heat. Not being able to buy any of a device in one of my amplifiers which might fail at any time set me on a path to find a solution - this is where the single version of the same OP amp comes in.![]()
You may want to have a look at the new OPA1656 (see "detailed description" pag.14 for the feed-forward tech). It's a 40Vs (max. recommended ±18V) Fet input (fabricated in a CMOS process), high 100mA output current, very low offset (best for RIAA), and happy with common ±15V supplies.I just put one in somewhere in a RIAA preamp, mounted vertically in a cool place, but if it gets hot I could glue a heatsink on it. (fortunately it is on a socket, too, if I could find a suitable replacement)
Nevertheless, I wonder if it supposed to get too hot when at max power voltage and low impedance driving only, or also during normal conditions (+/- 15V) and not driving a low ohms load.
Thank you for the suggestion, but I wont be trying other OP amps, I have my solution as previously explained. At least the spec voltage of the OPA2604AP was/is 48V or +/-24V, so trying to use an OP amp even closer to its limits would I think, be an 'out of the frying pan, into the fire' retrograde step.Actually i just looked carefully into LME49860 and it says that absolute max rating is 46V (-+23V). So i guess you should be fine if you decide to try it
Thank you for the suggestion, but I wont be trying other OP amps, I have my solution as previously explained. At least the spec voltage of the OPA2604AP was/is 48V or +/-24V, so trying to use an OP amp even closer to its limits would I think, be an 'out of the frying pan, into the fire' retrograde step.
Correct, the OPA604 is identical to one channel of the OPA2604AP, and the Brown Dog adapter enables its use where the PCB footprint is for SIP8.Understood.
As i understand you will use OPA604 single version, you said there is an adapter on which you install 2 OA and it will imitate dual operational amp chip ?
See the link in the first post.Cool. I just did not realize there was such an adapter.
Oh Great, just as when I was starting to sleep peacefully at night, you drop in this news....now I have to worry sleepless nights about failures and not extracting the maximum performance from the OPA2604s! You know how jarring that is to an audiophile!!Yes indeed, the high heat situation only occurs at the highest permissable supply voltages as far as I know. In the AU-D11 II this is only ~2V short of maximum. However it was only at these highest voltages that the best performance was available.
One of the new 604 chips failed.

Can it be dirty contacts in the selector switch? Other than that, check for the solder joints of the equalizer board or other dry solder joints somewhere in the input board.It’s still in the same state and I suppose I need to dig back into it.