Hot glue may work, but it's messy. If you can stretch and clamp the grillecloth then apply some epoxy through the cloth onto the frame you'll be all set. Otherwise you could use a staplegun or small brads.
Opinions on Infinity QLS speakers anyone?
- Thread starter Bucky Badger
- Start date
Hot glue may work, but it's messy. If you can stretch and clamp the grillecloth then apply some epoxy through the cloth onto the frame you'll be all set. Otherwise you could use a staplegun or small brads.
With the way the grill frames look. I would start by using the same process as putting' in a screen on a screen door. I would use a thicker thread or even a yarn to wedge in that small groove in the front of the frame........ And just think of the cool colors you could use.:yes:
If that didn't work I would then go to a glue gun or wait..... How about some thin strips of balsa wood wedged in that groove? It could even be stained or painted or one could even use a Sharpe to color it prior to putting it in.
Just a thought.
If that didn't work I would then go to a glue gun or wait..... How about some thin strips of balsa wood wedged in that groove? It could even be stained or painted or one could even use a Sharpe to color it prior to putting it in.
Just a thought.
Watkins treated his paper woofers with the Infinity form of liquid Aquaplas to dampen/control vibration.....it seems as though a bit of metalic powder was added to the mixture leaving a slightly glittery grey appearance in many cases.
Also Infinity did adapt the Watkins idea in the RS-II with use of a dedicated subwoofer crossed over at 60Hz and with second woofer playing 60 thru 125Hz....quite successfully to my ears.
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jt45
Super Member
Thats pretty common on many Watkins, my watkins are the paper cones and they have that grayish silver coating as well. Here is a pic right after I replaced the Dust covers on them.
jt45
Super Member
jim I think they used different size magnets throughout their run as someone else did a compare in the infinity thread of at least 3 different models/size magnets in the woofers. The ones I have are as large as the bottom of the basket or very close to it.
CarnahanBB
Super Member
Hmm that is really interesting...I need to pull the woofers in my QLS-1's because my woofers in my QLS-3's look identical to Bucky's with the same magnet and doping. My QLS-1's appear to be "doped" but the cones are not grey buy black.
Good info tubed.
Good point JT! I'd forgotten all the variations we discussed in the Watkins whitepaper thread. Here I'd been thinking it was due to all of the different models, Q1's, Q2's, Q3's, RS2.5's, RS4.5's, etc. Maybe Infinity just stuck in whatever was on the shelf at the time they were made! :scratch2:
CarnahanBB
Super Member
In terms of bi-amping these speakers (as I was discussing in a separate thread see Vintage Solid State) I found an interesting article suggesting that Infinity recommended using one amp per channel (speaker) sending all frequencies to each terminal. I have mine set-up using my SX-1980 to run the Watkins and an Adcom GFA 555 II to run the mids and highs as the Adcom could not power the Watkins to sufficient volume without clipping. Wow! See attachments.
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CarnahanBB
Super Member
Yeah, exactly and since I don't have two identical amps that's why I choose to do it the way I did. In terms of the Adcom I was surprised too...although the SX-1980 is rated at 270 at 8 ohms and the Adcom is "only" 200 at 8 ohms but into 4 ohms it's not as big of a difference. But sure enough into the Watkins the Adcom's distortion indicator lights were flickering...
CarnahanBB
Super Member
I will check mine and maybe Bucky can too. We can deduce a pattern!
i think when you're looking at power QLS1's, you need to look at the size of your transformer(s) and the total filter capacitance to estimate how well it will do. the GFA-555 isn't too overbuilt in the power supply department and may only have a 400VA transformer, which is more likely to sag under a heavy load than a larger transformer. but if you do one GFA-555 per speaker in a vertical biamp configuration, you're halving the difficulty. or, if you could just find a pair of GFA-565 monos, you could probably get away with single-amping. believe it or not, as tough as the SX-1980 looks, it is not recommended for driving the tougher Infinities, or really anything below 4 Ohms. unless it has good protection circuitry, i probably wouldn't risk it, but that's just me.
now if you really want to hear a good vintage amp on those, try to find a Yamaha PC-5002M!
now if you really want to hear a good vintage amp on those, try to find a Yamaha PC-5002M!
CarnahanBB
Super Member
Do you know how low the impedance dips on the QLS's? I was re-reading the manual with my Adcom and evidently if the distortion lights are flickering that's a normal indication that you are approaching maximum output but no clipping is occurring. If the lamps are solid and not flickering that is an indicator that actual clipping is occurring. I never experienced this when I had experimented with the Adcom driving the woofers. So I may try that again to relieve the 1980 from driving the woofers and allow it to only power the mid/highs. According to the manual the Adcom is easily capable of driving 2 Ohm loads.
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Mine are 7001343 and 7001344 if that helps anyone.
I took out both woofers and found the spiders had really sunk and was getting a rub on both metal bobbins. So the shop will try to rebuild the woofs to bring the cones up to where they should be.
Can't wait to hear these when they are dialed in. Now I'm wondering if I should have the Xovers redone now that I have the woofs out.....:scratch2: I guess that now would be the time to do them.
CarnahanBB
Super Member
Bummer! I wonder what caused the spiders to sag so much? Perhaps they were stored for a really long time. Bucky can you take a picture of the XO network? I bet it's a beast!
i would say just buy new woofers from Watkins Stereo. they're $375, i think with free shipping. at least, that was the deal a few years ago when they were selling them on eBay. with new woofers, you'll rest easy knowing they are electrically matched and performing as spec'd. rebuilding woofers can be tricky enough, but with the rubbing that has already occurred, you really don't know if any damage has been done to the VC's, and the DCR's could have moved around as well (i have noticed this on several old Watkinses that i've measured).
They are 450.00/pair now. The shop I have them in said that they will try and bring them back up to par. If they are unsuccessful there is no charge so thats a good thing. Didn't think I had much to loose. Might have to buy new ones anyway but we shall see. Maybe somebody here has a good pair for sale............................................