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Patching Chassis Holes

Andyman

Scroungus Stereophilus
Subscriber
I'm doing some cosmetic work on the Maggie 8802 Keg reworked for me and am thinking about painting the chassis. So that brings up what to do with all the unused holes in the surface. There's one for an unused tube socket, and a bunch where things like power lights, inputs and outputs have been relocated.

What have you guys done with them???

I'd like to solder a plate on the bottom and back fill it with Bondo, but perhaps some chrome body tape or fiberglass would be just as effective. Or maybe even some JB Weld?? The smaller holes under 1/4" really aren't that bad but the bigger ones over 1/2" or more are the ones I'm wondering about.

Let me know what you've done!!
 
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Man, soldering or welding and filling is a LOT of work. My hat is off to anyone that goes that way and succeeds. If I really wanted a chassis that clean, I'd probably just make a new one.

I would look for pretty block off caps or covers. There are chrome caps that snap into holes. Check automotive hothod places, electrical supply places, even a good hardware store in the nuts and bolts area. If you're painting, even plactic covers would work. I'd get some chrome or stainless bolt/screws and just screw them in the small holes. Thats an old hotrod engine trick to "fill" all the extra holes. Even just finding a rubber grommet to fit the big holes and just putting that in and leaving it as a "vent" could look cool.
 
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Well, soldering really isn't the option of choice, but I am seriously thinking about the chrome tape/ bondo or JB Weld. Maybe even that epoxy putty stuff. It's soft enough to sand easily and should be invisible under a coat of Hammerite, plus there really won't be any stress on it as it is on the top of the amp and not subject to any real pressure.

I just don't like the chrome cap look; it looks like a cover because it is...:dunno:
 
I am seriously thinking about... JB Weld.

I took a scrap piece of aluminum from some old industrial equipment and patched the holes with JB Weld. Then I sanded it smooth and painted it with a rattle can of self etching primer. The holes are completely invisible. The finish coat of paint is Rustoleum Hammered, dark bronze. The wood box still needs a few coats of polyurethane.

 
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I'd just get some appropriately-sized chrome block-off caps at the hardware store. Filling small holes is one thing - filling tube-sized holes is another. Fresh chassis aren't that expensive, either.
 
Tube newby here. I went with the epoxy putty and a couple of caps for this 175.
 

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Similar to Ty's idea, get an aluminum blank sheet cut to size, drill only the holes you need. Then attach it to the top of the current chassis with screws, JB Weld or whatever. Wood trim all the way around would cover it up on the sides. It's probably a lot of work, but maybe no more than filling and sanding.
 
copper top plate!

How about cutting off the existing top plate but leaving a half inch flange all around to take on a copper/brass plate! Use screws or copper rivets to secure in position. :thmbsp:
 
Please, Please Andy, for the love of God and all things good and rightious in this world, change your avitar:yikes:
 
JB Weld would be the best for attaching the plate from the underside, then a little bondo. I can tell you from experience that the thin metal plate these chassis are made from warp under very little heat.
 
I found my metal tape and used that and some JB Weld on a couple holes. So far so good as it's curing now.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.
 
I was over at Ross' months back and he was working on a pair of mono blocks for someone, and the chassis had pre punched holes in them and the guy went to the hardware store and got hot and cold faucet top caps and they fit in the holes tight as can be.

P.S., I am averting my eye from the upper left corner of the screen as I write this. I think I'll be ill now.
 
Please, Please Andy, for the love of God and all things good and rightious in this world, change your avitar:yikes:

+1 zillion

Something I am attempting to do with extra tube size holes - add some tubes. Specifically some VR tubes. A little extra glowing glass and maybe a little better sound too. Just a thought
 
OK, here's a couple quick pics of the first test.

First test is a reapplication to fill some low spots, second is sanded. I used metal tape on the bottom as a support and filled the holes with JB Weld. Tomorrow I may try some fiberglass as it may be easier to get that sticky mess into some of the tighter spots w/o soldering.

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Metal tape? This the stuff used on sheet metal work like ducting? Got a pic of underneath? How is it working?

Mark
 
You could always fill in an empty tube socket hole with a tube socket and a tube, and some added audio circuitry. Like a phono preamp? :D
 
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