Patching Chassis Holes
- Thread starter Andyman
- Start date
You could always fill in an empty tube socket hole with a tube socket and a tube, and some added audio circuitry. Like a phono preamp?
Nope, this is a one off power amp that Kegger designed and built from the 8802 and I'm just going to pretty it up a bit. Wrap it in wood, Hammerite the top of the chassis and maybe build a smallish cage for the outputs because they're fugly and it's easier than building bells is what's on the agenda for it. Well and redoing the cap clamp too' i've got something more subtle in mind.
Patrick620
Audio Enthusiast
Good timing for this post. I'm in the middle of doing a Maggie 175. I spent about two hours polishing the chassis with Brasso and trying to decide on what else to do. I thought about patching the holes in some of the ways mentioned and painting it hammertone, but I did not want to fill in the tube designation lettering stamped in the chassis. I opted for polishing and chrome button plugs ( need to order a few more). The can be easily ordered online and come in the sizes that are commonly used on tube chassis. I am happy enough with the looks. I just started on it today, so I have a ways to go. It will get trimmed in mahogany by the time I'm done.
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I just patched the last holes and the JB Weld is drying. Here's a few pics...
This one is of the underside showing the tape. I also soldered in a piece of computer slot cover just to see how it would go and while it may be stronger, it is a lot more work. The solder puddle is from the RCA grounds as that hole was for the inputs, so it was a convenient situation to try a second technique.
Here's the top with the cutouts covered and ready for the goo..
And filled and drying. This JB Weld is a tougher material to sand than bondo, but that also makes it stronger, so that's why I'm using it.
I've also used it to fill in the stampings for the tubes as they are no longer correct and they may look messy once Hammerite'd.
More pics as I progress.
This one is of the underside showing the tape. I also soldered in a piece of computer slot cover just to see how it would go and while it may be stronger, it is a lot more work. The solder puddle is from the RCA grounds as that hole was for the inputs, so it was a convenient situation to try a second technique.
Here's the top with the cutouts covered and ready for the goo..
And filled and drying. This JB Weld is a tougher material to sand than bondo, but that also makes it stronger, so that's why I'm using it.
I've also used it to fill in the stampings for the tubes as they are no longer correct and they may look messy once Hammerite'd.
More pics as I progress.
Attachments
OK, JB weld is dried and sanded but there were some low spots so I found my auto glazing compound and fulled them in, plus some of the lettering. It's not as bad as it looks as it's a lot softer than the JB weld.
A closeup of the rear corner
After some sanding..
And the front after some sanding...
A bit more sanding and taping tomorrow and it could be Hammerite Time
A closeup of the rear corner
After some sanding..
And the front after some sanding...
A bit more sanding and taping tomorrow and it could be Hammerite Time
Attachments
I think your time is better spent punching holes in a fresh chassis and making the layout aesthetically and functionally pleasing from the git-go, rather than doing brilliant & time-consuming work on a piece that is limited no matter what you do.
Let's say that you find an even more compelling vintage piece to restore. If you are like me, pretty soon these things start to pile up and reach a critical mass, where some stuff must go.
It's a lot easier to sell or share something that looks pretty and professional.
Just saying.
Let's say that you find an even more compelling vintage piece to restore. If you are like me, pretty soon these things start to pile up and reach a critical mass, where some stuff must go.
It's a lot easier to sell or share something that looks pretty and professional.
Just saying.
Actually, i only have a couple hours in this, certainly far less time that either stripping out the chassis or punching a new one. and since I have no intention of ever selling this Kegger uniquely modded amp, it's just to make it look more appealing for me, which it does already. In fact, there's a lot of guys over on the Magnavox Yahoo group who have done similar things.
Here's a couple of pics after tonight's painting. The iron was already given a new coat of semigloss black and I'm going to work up a wooden wrap for the front and sides.
It should be looking pretty nice in a couple days...
Front shot
Corner shot where a lot of patching was done.
Rear shot that was once 3 open holes...
I'm thinking I'll wrap in in some Santos Rosewood veneer to match my speakers and that should be quite an improvement over the fugly bare metal chassis I pulled out of that console.
Here's a couple of pics after tonight's painting. The iron was already given a new coat of semigloss black and I'm going to work up a wooden wrap for the front and sides.
It should be looking pretty nice in a couple days...
Front shot
Corner shot where a lot of patching was done.
Rear shot that was once 3 open holes...
I'm thinking I'll wrap in in some Santos Rosewood veneer to match my speakers and that should be quite an improvement over the fugly bare metal chassis I pulled out of that console.
Attachments
Patrick620
Audio Enthusiast
Looking good, man. That Santos Rosewood is nice looking stuff, too.
Horn Head
Super Member
Coming along nicely! That Hammertone covers any potential minor blemishes too.
Is that copper or gold hammertone?
Can't wait to see the done deal..... And, I'm with you; filling those holes is likely much simpler than creating new chassis....even with the major components still attached.
Nice job thus far. And think I'll do likewise on future console pulls to clean them up a bit more. Thanks for the tips and pics.
Is that copper or gold hammertone?
Can't wait to see the done deal..... And, I'm with you; filling those holes is likely much simpler than creating new chassis....even with the major components still attached.
Nice job thus far. And think I'll do likewise on future console pulls to clean them up a bit more. Thanks for the tips and pics.
Horn Head
Super Member
To cover the OPTs, one idea is to use some of those old 'cans' that covered some RF components in old antique radios. They're a bit smaller than soup cans and fit nicely over the original small maggie OPTs. I got four of them and will likely cover the OPTs on a 93xx amp when its time comes. Wull clean-up the looks well withouy having to build more complex cages. And the cans make the xfrmrs look a bit like those potted types.
Wish I had a pic of them for you but I think you get the idea.
Just a thought.
It's copper Hammerite. I bought it on impulse with Keg the other day, but had second thoughts and bought some bronze later. After comparing them on a sheet of scrap and looking at some of the ones on the Yahoo site, i decided to trust my gut and go with the copper.
As to the OPTs, I thought I could bend a chunk of mesh or grating to fit into a couple wooden end caps to cover them, but that's for a later day. Right now it's just get it reassembled with a wrap around base for Saturday.
I'm going to veneer some MDF later on today for the base, so there may be a few more pics this evening.
As to the OPTs, I thought I could bend a chunk of mesh or grating to fit into a couple wooden end caps to cover them, but that's for a later day. Right now it's just get it reassembled with a wrap around base for Saturday.
I'm going to veneer some MDF later on today for the base, so there may be a few more pics this evening.
In my browsing through the pictures, did I see a repurposed PC slot cover in there?
Hmmmmmm.....
It's possible...
Too late for pics tonight, but the MDF is all dressed up in the rosewood. A little sanding and oiling tomorrow and there should be some very pretty pictures for y'all..:yes:
OK, finished up the wood and have it setting in place before I dowel joint it. I wiped it down with mineral spirts to clean it and give siome idea how it will look once oiled up.
I also have the new copper clamp around the cap. I need to solder on some legs and drill it, but I wanted to move the lock screw behind it and out of sight. A small sheet of copper I picked up last week provided the material. FWIW, all I spent $$ on was on the paint and some screws to replace the rivets and clamp screws. Everything else was done with shop scraps.
Now you guys know why i don't toss anything
Head on...
Left view...
Right view...
I also have the new copper clamp around the cap. I need to solder on some legs and drill it, but I wanted to move the lock screw behind it and out of sight. A small sheet of copper I picked up last week provided the material. FWIW, all I spent $$ on was on the paint and some screws to replace the rivets and clamp screws. Everything else was done with shop scraps.
Now you guys know why i don't toss anything
Head on...
Left view...
Right view...
