Pioneer Clutch
- Thread starter Jon Tripp
- Start date
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Bump, because that's a darned good question.
I did the repair. Followed MTF’s lead. It was really painstaking! Had to figure out how to do this with basic tools. Way too much fine sanding involved. With the proper tools it would have been easier, but not easy. Maybe a mini lathe with a jaw big enough to fit the parts in? Message if you want more of the details. Not sure I want to do this again. MTF was a saint for doing this service for us all these years!
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Well done. I also have a 1000 collecting dust because I procrastinate sometimes lol. Would appreciate hearing more about your experience; they're pretty decks, I really should get mine back in play. 
The brass tubing is common in any hobby store. Unfortunately, the store didn’t have a mini tube cutter. I used the spin and score/cut with utility knife technique (not recommended). Next, you’ll need to bore out the inside to fit over RNK-188. You want a snug fit but not so difficult that you damage the parts pressing it on. In order not to distort the tube out of round I used a sleeve. I made it from a straw from one of my wife’s 10,000 reusable Starbucks cups. The tube fits a little loose in the straw. By cutting a lengthwise section from the straw it can be pressed tightly around the tube by the drill chuck. Use double sided tape inside the sleeve if needed to stop it from spinning. I used a 4.8mm bit. I then wrapped a smaller bit in sandpaper to very gradually enlarge the bore. Took a long time. There’s obviously a much better way to do this. I also sanded the outside end of the tube that fits inside the ring of the RNK-189. I then increased the inside diameter of ring itself. For that I used an exact-o knife. The blade will need to be modified so it can contact the surface in parallel. I used the end of a wood Q-tip to hold and spin the RNK-189. Make sure it spins perfect (no wobble) before starting. Spin with the drill while scraping the inside of the ring. Don’t let the blade “chatter”. I scraped a lot of the surface off and then finish sanded the inside of the ring by hand. Be very careful to keep the blade parallel to the surface. When pressing the sleeve onto RNK-188 be very careful. I used a soft wood surface. I also used a small round piece of plastic to push on from the other end. You’ll need to bore out the RNK-187 to spin freely. Go slow…just enough to spin since the hub wall is already thin and requires structural strength under load. The hole in RNK-186 is almost bigger but will still bind when RNK-188 (with the brass sleeve) expands the ring on RNK-189. Test fit and enlarge as needed. The low friction washer is fine, no need to adjust. This was a very basic overview. There’s a myriad of techniques and “gotchas” in each step. I’m hoping others can share some ways of doing this easier. Better yet…MTF gets back up and running!
tapetech
Repair Professional
Two separate fixes need to be done. First the clutch spring has too much force from the factory so it needs to be cut down in size to have the correct force so that the clutch works properly. And then the clutch needs to be glued with a special glue for nylon. I have repaired many and they never fail and the clutch works as it was intended to.
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RockinRandy
Active Member
Assuming the Crack is the only issue with this part why can it not be 3d printed?
Do you know anyone that could print it?
RockinRandy
Active Member
Yes and I'm going to drop it off to him Saturday. Will it work? I have no idea as I've never even seen it done but guys are printing Sony parts right and left so time will tell.
I went through the daunting task of recreating the RNK-581fix. I seriously didn’t want to…not at all! I’d much rather send the clutch to an expert like MTF. Unfortunately, that’s not currently an option and might never be again.
Many have tried easier fixes. But after 20+ years of many different attempts at repair the brass collar method is THE ONLY bonafide, sure-fire solution at this time…PERIOD! You can dabble in snake-oil remedies and possibly destroy your clutch, wring your hands and wish for a magic solution, put the deck in storage hoping someday a new part will be available. Or…you can buckle down and fix it right. Was it really difficult? Yes…it was for me. I had to think through everything multiple times before starting and throughout the process. Will I get better at it? I’d better! I’ve already invested in some better tooling. Would some constructive, factual and detailed input from awesome AK members help? Absolutely! I have 4 more clutches that will require the fix (2x CT-F1000s, a CT-F9191 spare transport and a CT-F8282).
Many have tried easier fixes. But after 20+ years of many different attempts at repair the brass collar method is THE ONLY bonafide, sure-fire solution at this time…PERIOD! You can dabble in snake-oil remedies and possibly destroy your clutch, wring your hands and wish for a magic solution, put the deck in storage hoping someday a new part will be available. Or…you can buckle down and fix it right. Was it really difficult? Yes…it was for me. I had to think through everything multiple times before starting and throughout the process. Will I get better at it? I’d better! I’ve already invested in some better tooling. Would some constructive, factual and detailed input from awesome AK members help? Absolutely! I have 4 more clutches that will require the fix (2x CT-F1000s, a CT-F9191 spare transport and a CT-F8282).
That’s awesome! Please post the results ASAP
RockinRandy
Active Member
Will do
It’s been a few weeks now. Any luck with the 3D print?
RockinRandy
Active Member
I haven't heard back from him yet and almost called him tonight but decided to wait until tomorrow.
I've been working alot of OT so I haven't really had a chance to work on anything the last 3 weeks.
I'll definitely let you know when I get it and try it out.
For all the would be victims of snake oil advocates I did some experiments with the “miracle glue” some users related to this topic use. It’s called Plastic Surgery. Claims to bond all types of plastics including nylon. I used it on some spare Pioneer nylon pulleys. I used it with and without an activator/primer. I allowed 72 hours to reach full strength before testing the bond. It holds about as well as normal superglue. Activator primer created slight additional strength which still came apart with very little effort. Again, the ONLY true fix is the sleeve method (done correctly). I was hoping to hear more on a possible 3D print solution. There’s actually been several years of 3D rumors with nothing produced. Meanwhile, I’ll soon be starting on my second sleeved clutch. I ordered some additional tooling to make the job quicker/easier.
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RockinRandy
Active Member
Where are you located @robstar as I just got off the phone with the guy who said he could duplicate the clutch and he hasn't even looked at it. The reason I ask where you are is because mtfixer hasn't responded to me in over a month and last check was in the hospital for a lengthy period and still may be.
He sleeved 3 of these things for me and your right, it works permanently because it's been 2yrs and counting on one of them that I know of. If you are in the states I would be glad to send you one for sure maybe two. I'm not nor have thought of gluing anything.
Thanks Randy
RockinRandy
Active Member
Whoa,I see you're in the land of paradise. Expensive shipping
That’s a common assumption. Actually, USPS is the same for small packages.