Pioneer Crazy?
- Thread starter tankdonovan
- Start date
--------------------------
I have the same problem, soon I will proceed to disassemble and clean the switches with lubrilimp
-----------------------------
cleaning exposes the switch contact's sulphate corrosion that still contaminates the switch's contacts, but that is good because cleaning exposes the corrosion to treatment with Deoxit.
Deoxit is the miracle cure that loosens the corrosion and allows the corrosion to be scrubbed away by repeated full motion of the switch, leaving behind a clean streak of metal.
however the switch contacts CAN be jarred off this clean streak by shipping the unit, or handling it roughly.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
la limpieza expone la corrosión de sulfato del contacto del interruptor que todavía contamina los contactos del interruptor, pero eso es bueno porque la limpieza expone la corrosión al tratamiento con Deoxit.
Deoxit es la cura milagrosa que afloja la corrosión y permite que la corrosión sea eliminada por el movimiento completo y repetido del interruptor, dejando un rastro limpio de metal.
sin embargo, los contactos del interruptor PUEDEN sacudirse de esta raya limpia enviando la unidad o manipulándola de manera aproximada.
Hey Markthefixer, (or anyone who can help!)
I just picked up a pioneer ct-f9191 from a friend who gave it to me because it doesn't work. Im going to try to fix it but im a little out of my element. I can put in a cassette and hit play, it plays for only a couple of seconds then stops every time. I was curious so i held down the play button and the cassette will play fine but it clicks indicating it wanted to stop and shut off again. i tried cleaning everything with rubbing alcohol especially the sensor (or what i think is the sensor) because i think its not reading the cassette causing the auto stop to kick in. But it didn't change anything, like i said im a little out of my element and wonder if you had any tips. Thanks!
Edit- so i just firgured out that the counter wasnt working and that was causing the autostop to engage. i opened her up and fiddled with the counter by moving the wheels with my finger to spin the numbers to get it going and the cassette played as long as the counter was spinning! The only thing is that the counter doesn't play for long causing the same issue to arise. It has a belt but what could be the problem causing the counter to stop working?
I just picked up a pioneer ct-f9191 from a friend who gave it to me because it doesn't work. Im going to try to fix it but im a little out of my element. I can put in a cassette and hit play, it plays for only a couple of seconds then stops every time. I was curious so i held down the play button and the cassette will play fine but it clicks indicating it wanted to stop and shut off again. i tried cleaning everything with rubbing alcohol especially the sensor (or what i think is the sensor) because i think its not reading the cassette causing the auto stop to kick in. But it didn't change anything, like i said im a little out of my element and wonder if you had any tips. Thanks!
Edit- so i just firgured out that the counter wasnt working and that was causing the autostop to engage. i opened her up and fiddled with the counter by moving the wheels with my finger to spin the numbers to get it going and the cassette played as long as the counter was spinning! The only thing is that the counter doesn't play for long causing the same issue to arise. It has a belt but what could be the problem causing the counter to stop working?
Last edited:
Three belts in the CT-F9191 transport.
there are TWO small belts. One drives off the takeup hub, and goes to the tape motion sensor off the side of the transport chassis.
the second belt goes from that tape motion sensor to the mechanical counter.
The third belt is much larger and thicker, connecting the main motor (with small pulley) to the capstan (BIG weight) shaft.
there are TWO small belts. One drives off the takeup hub, and goes to the tape motion sensor off the side of the transport chassis.
the second belt goes from that tape motion sensor to the mechanical counter.
The third belt is much larger and thicker, connecting the main motor (with small pulley) to the capstan (BIG weight) shaft.
Swim Dad
New Member
Lets see how this works. first picture is closeup with bottom off (my bad, there are 7(seven) screws holding it on. The blue box i drew encloses the solder pads for the 2 switches... NOT some weird Integrated Circuit.
There are 4 screws on the corners holding the board. Second photo shows the board pivoted out (please excuse the thumb),
the leftmost box I drew outlines the business end of the honking big rec/plyback switching solenoid, the right boxed areas (upper and lower) are the two switches. There is nothing that goes through the square holes on the ends of the plastic sliders of the switches (for when you put it back together), the flat part of the solenoid presses on the end of the plastic PAST the holes.
The third picture is a closeup of the switches With boxes that I drew that show the holes in the metal (all five per switch, 2 small round holes, 2 ends and a double large square hole(s) in the middle) that I shot (under 1 second each) squirts of deoxit, and later pro-gold, into.
Then I mechanically actuated the switches incessantly by hand...
View attachment 11200 View attachment 11201 View attachment 11202
WARNING to those with borderline OCD... don't wear out the switches!!!!!
BTW: How do I get the pictures in the post, as opposed to attachments that have to be clicked on?
edit 2: Due to the great database crash, I am re-posting these pictures. They are essentially the same as the originals.
The de-oxiting of these 2 switches is CRITICAL for the good operation of the deck... even the input leads from the playback/record heads and associated signals are connected to and THROUGH this switch
Swim Dad
New Member
Lets see how this works. first picture is closeup with bottom off (my bad, there are 7(seven) screws holding it on. The blue box i drew encloses the solder pads for the 2 switches... NOT some weird Integrated Circuit.
There are 4 screws on the corners holding the board. Second photo shows the board pivoted out (please excuse the thumb),
the leftmost box I drew outlines the business end of the honking big rec/plyback switching solenoid, the right boxed areas (upper and lower) are the two switches. There is nothing that goes through the square holes on the ends of the plastic sliders of the switches (for when you put it back together), the flat part of the solenoid presses on the end of the plastic PAST the holes.
The third picture is a closeup of the switches With boxes that I drew that show the holes in the metal (all five per switch, 2 small round holes, 2 ends and a double large square hole(s) in the middle) that I shot (under 1 second each) squirts of deoxit, and later pro-gold, into.
Then I mechanically actuated the switches incessantly by hand...
View attachment 11200 View attachment 11201 View attachment 11202
WARNING to those with borderline OCD... don't wear out the switches!!!!!
BTW: How do I get the pictures in the post, as opposed to attachments that have to be clicked on?
edit 2: Due to the great database crash, I am re-posting these pictures. They are essentially the same as the originals.
The de-oxiting of these 2 switches is CRITICAL for the good operation of the deck... even the input leads from the playback/record heads and associated signals are connected to and THROUGH this switch
Sorry for the double post.
My switches seem to be frozen. There is no movement what-so-ever. Or better yet, I guess the question is, how much sliding do these switches have? 1/8”, 1/16”? I’m afraid to put too much pressure on the plastic ends and have a catastrophic break.
jayboundless
New Member
Thank you Mark! Had very low sound and hissing with tape play. Found this thread and voila! Fixed!
Thanks for the detailed fix! I had a problem with the right dB meter moving on it's own with the power on and not playing a cassette. It also moved erratically while playing a tape. Adjusting the output knob worsened the problem. After cleaning both switches everything is working properly. Thanks again!