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Pioneer cs 99a Speakers (need mid-range replacement speakers)

B

Bryce Sharp

New Member
Just grabbed a pair at a vintage store, $300.00, they look sharp and the base sounds good, but 3 of the 4 midrange have issues and need replacing.

Anyone have suggestions for replacement speakers?


PS I looked through 6 pages for this or similar topic, I did not find nor can I find an advanced or forum specific search, does that exist?
 
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the good thing about all of the vintage Pioneer speakers, Mids, tweets woofers, they all have part #'s written on the backs.
Many of their speaker model #'s had the same drivers. they are available. i have some as well as most anyone who has had their fair share of speakers. Try posting on Barter town wanted your part # Pioneer mids. Make sure they are really bad 1st
Hopefully you learned a Lesson when buying Vintage speakers for just about retail, always check all the speakers work for bargaining power
 
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Great info thank you, I will post up the part numbers when I take delivery tomorrow.

vintage-pioneer-cs-99a-way-wood_1_5f297ad683f35c7d09726680040ec61b.jpg

These are the speakers (this image is from the internet), the original price in the store was 495, which lined up with a lot of prices I found for the same speakers online (ebay etc..), since the speakers needed work, he dropped the price too 300, and tossed in some midrange from another pair that were not cosmetically very nice(some collage kid sprayed them black). If 300 is retail for a pair of these is good working order I am feeling pretty good still as the style is exactly what I want for the room they are going in, and the base speakers sound great.
 
Yes Cabinet condition is #1 good luck, there's plenty of parts for them.
 
Welcome to AK.
There are several on ebay right now. Prices range from ok (beat up with tears in cone) to well,ok for those in good condition.
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We can only discuss values in the Dollars and Sense area here.
 
Test them before giving up on them. The CS-99A’s have a boatload of caps in their crossovers. If you’re lucky, could be just bad crossover components, or bad connections. They used clip-on wiring as well, so check your connections. I would fully expect tweeter failure before mid-range failure, which is why it’s worth investigating further (if you already haven’t done so). Good luck! If you plan on keeping these, I’d HIGHLY recommend recapping them, makes a world of difference, but its quite a chore due to the number of caps that need replacing, and the lack of space on the board for the better quality (larger) caps...
 
It's the board all of the speakers are perfect, good ohms, and no visible issues, the Cross-Over is complex and has two 6way pots for Low-Norm-High (Bass and Treble), I used a multimeter to read the volts coming off the board and the OHMS of the coils, which are all good, now I guess I need to test caps... but... also the wires coming off the board all all soldered.
 
Bryce Sharp said:
...also the wires coming off the board all all soldered.
Click to expand...

Wires are soldered on the crossover, but typically use compression clips at the speaker connection (might want to solder those for better reliability). While you’re in there, they also have notoriously bad connections at the speaker connection posts. If nothing else, just make sure and clean and tighten the speaker post connections at the crossover. You’re lucky that it’s just caps, those need to be replaced anyway!
 
Be sure to deoxit those pots. Only base was working on one of mine today.
Deoxit the pots solved it. I'd like to find new binding posts for mine. I'm not sure if replacements I see would tighten on the back of the crossover as seems required for good connection. Seems standard ones on cs-99a just make connection between post and board with soder. No way to tighten as I see. Post is held on inside with glue.
"There's only 10 types of people, Those who know binary and those that don't"
 
This has been done for a while now, I recapped the cross-overs, as some of the them were bad, the tweeter and midrange on one side and the tweeter on the other. All recapped bit of a challenge to get he much larger pots on the little board.
These speaks sound really nice, and look perfect in my main room.
 
Great! I'm still working on my cs-99a speakers. I've got one recapped. It only had the woofer working when I started. It was a challenge. I had recapped my klh model 23 speakers a while back. As you know, these have many more caps. I got most on the board but the two largest are on a separate board made from a piece of laminate flooring with wires to them.
There are two caps for each in parallel. I found a post that told me the part numbers for the caps from parts express. Deoxit on the pots seemed to get all the drivers going but I'm still not sure about the horn. Next, I think I'll soder the wire connectors where they connect to the speakers. They are only crimped on now. I would also like to replace the binding posts.
I read these are a week point. But, I'm not sure what to order. As you probably know the existing binding post is a screw through the board. It's glued on the inside. Outside, where it needs to contact the board I don't seem much contact. I guess that star washer is supposed to make contact or maybe soder. I'm not sure where to star washer is supposed to go. Between the board and the black plastic? It seems to best fit on the outside inside the black washer. Some binding posts I see seem to have a hole tapped in the end with a screw in it. I guess that could be used to attach it to the board but I wonder if it's small enough to go through the tiny hole in the board. Maybe I'll just soder the existing screw on the outside and attach the speaker wire with a couple small nuts and spade connector. These speakers are going to be great with my pioneer sa-8100 receiver and tx-7100 tuner. I also have a new fluance turntable.
Regards.
 

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Some people use a close-up empty paper towel tube to focus their listening on one driver to see it it's working; you could try that with the horn in question.
 
Have you taken a resistance (Ohms) reading on the horn you think is weak?
Take a reading and let us know what you get. Remove at least one wire from the horn before taking the measurements.
 
Both the horns in mine we shot, OL on the multimeter, I took on apart and in a 3 lbs unit that is largely indestructible, there is a little tiny wire .00001 steel wool tiny connecting the leads to the voice coil, this was broken, try as I might I have not been able to find a replacement for that plasic and cardboard voice coil. This is litterally the only thing that could be wrong with the horn. I had to bite the bullet and buy two more from ebay for about 80/each.
 
Thanks for the replies. I tried take take the resistance on my horns. It appears to be 7.3 on one and a little higher (7.6) on the other. However, on my cheap multimeter, in my reading the instructions on checking resistance, when I short the leads together before testing, it reads .9 instead of the zero stated. Be safe.
 
So the horns are good, I could be one of the caps on the circuit that powers the tweeters. Both of those caps were bad on my crossovers
 
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